# NRCEST 國立交通大學土木工程學系 中華民國 102 年 4 月 11 日. 2 Definition of beach morphology 淺化帶 (shoaling zone); 碎波帶 (surf zone); 沖刷帶 (swash zone) ; 灘線 (shore line); 海灘.

## Presentation on theme: "NRCEST 國立交通大學土木工程學系 中華民國 102 年 4 月 11 日. 2 Definition of beach morphology 淺化帶 (shoaling zone); 碎波帶 (surf zone); 沖刷帶 (swash zone) ; 灘線 (shore line); 海灘."— Presentation transcript:

NRCEST 國立交通大學土木工程學系 中華民國 102 年 4 月 11 日

2 Definition of beach morphology 淺化帶 (shoaling zone); 碎波帶 (surf zone); 沖刷帶 (swash zone) ; 灘線 (shore line); 海灘 (shore, beach); 海岸 (coast); 平台 (berm); 內灘 (inshore); 外灘 (offshore); 沙洲 (bar); 灘面 (beach face); 灘崖 (beach scarp); 台梯 (step) ; 沙谷 (trough)

3 Type of beach profile Definition: 平衡海灘斷面 (equilibrium beach profile): 在同一波浪條件長 期作用下，海灘斷面將呈現平衡之狀態。 Type of beach: Type A: 暴風海灘 (storm beach) 或冬季海灘 (winter beach) Type B: 中間型海灘 (transition beach) Type C: 正常海灘 (normal beach) 或夏季海灘 (summer beach) Sunamura and Horikawa, 1974

4 Slope of beachface Sunamura (1984) tan  f

5 Classification of beach profile Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) Experiment: 4-8 Field:9-18

6 Equilibrium beach: theory Dean (1977)

7 Brunn-Dean profile:Equilibrium beach: Moore (1982), Dean(1991) Disadvantages: 1.Infinity slope at shoreline 2.Monotonic function: infinity depth Kriebel et al. (1998)

8 Other forms of beach profile Bodge (1992) Hsu e al. (1998) Simple form? Theoretical approach? Bar shape profile?

10 A and m coefficients of Bruun/Dean profile

11 A and m coefficients of Bruun/Dean profile

12 A and m coefficients of Bruun/Dean profile Artcic beach

13 A and m coefficients of Bruun/Dean profile

14 Shape parameter

15 Shape parameter

16 Shape parameter

17 Best fitting for a1 a1=03285

18 Shape parameter

19 Extended equilibrium beach Larson (1991)

20 Three-parameter equilibrium profile

21 Three-parameter equilibrium profile

22 Three-parameter equilibrium profile

23 Three-parameter equilibrium profile

24 Three-parameter equilibrium profile Goodness of fit: overall errors

25 Validity of equilibrium beach

26 Validity of equilibrium beach

27 Reflective natural beaches

28 Surf profile

29 Shoaling profile

30 Comparison with field data

31 Parameter

32 Discussion 1.Does an equilibrium beach exist in real beach? 2.What is the application of equilibrium to coast engineering? 3.Theoretical approach ?

Download ppt "NRCEST 國立交通大學土木工程學系 中華民國 102 年 4 月 11 日. 2 Definition of beach morphology 淺化帶 (shoaling zone); 碎波帶 (surf zone); 沖刷帶 (swash zone) ; 灘線 (shore line); 海灘."

Similar presentations