1. COSTUMING Chapter 12 Stage & School

2. STANDARDS & OBJECTIVES B.AE.1 Understand how to design technical theatre components, such as costumes, sets, props, makeup, lighting, and sound. B.AE.1.1 Understand the major technical elements, such as sound, lights, set, and costumes, and their interrelationships. B.AE.1.2 Explain how the major technical elements, such as sound, lights, set, and costumes, are used to enhance formal or informal productions.

3. FOCUS QUESTIONS 1.Why is effective costuming important to a good production? 2.What is color coding? 3.What is a costume parade? 4.What is the most important consideration in a period costume? 5.What is the key to believable period costumes? 6.How do you determine whether to rent, borrow, or make costumes? 7.How do you measure for costumes? Answer the following questions and turn in before you read the chapter.

4. VOCABULARY Color coding – Matching characters by color or pattern Swatch – a fabric sample Costume parade – Procession during which actors wear costumes under the lights to ensure the compatibility of the colors Costume silhouette – Each historic period’s own distinctive line & form in dress Costume plot – Outline that describes the colors, fabrics, and accessories for each costume design. Building – Term used by costumers for making a costume. Wardrobe manager – person responsible for creating the costume plot and caring for the costumes during rehearsals and performances

5. MORE TERMS TO KNOW Preliminary sketches – this worksheet helps the costume designers visualize a costume before it is actually built Dyeing – process the which the color of a fabric is changed before the costume is cut and sewn Dressers – assistants who hang clothes, keep accessories nearby, and help actors change costumes Boot covers – accessories meant to be worn over shoes Stylized play – example of this would be Shakespeare’s Hamlet costumed in modern clothing Identifying – Details in a costume that indicate its time period or geographical region Accessories – extra items to add to a costume: watches, hats, canes, umbrellas Interchangeables – accessories that can be worn with more than one outfit Altering – changing the size of a costume to fit an actor Costume house – business that rents costumes & accessories Texture – quality of the fabric that determines the way the costume will catch light Velcro – material used instead of zipp

6. COSTUMER’S CONSIDERATIONS The kind of action that will take place The comfort of the actors The ease with which a costume can be put on & taken off, especially when costume changes are necessary The durability of the design and fabric The historical period of the play The total design of the production The directors concept of the play

7. COLOR & MATERIALS Contemporary comedies, farces, children’s & fantasies should be made of light material in bright and pastel colors Restoration comedies should be made of satins, lace, brocades. In realistic plays, designers can use almost any material as long as it fits the characters’ needs. Pale yellow gives the impression of youth and spirit Maroon suggests martyrdom and suffering Blondes should wear cool colors and brunettes should wear warm colors, red heads should emphasize their coloring by wearing yellow, orange, green, and golden brown

8. LINE

9. PRACTICAL VOCABULARY baste -- a long hand-sewn running stitch. Basting stitches are used in assembly to make sure the garment fits before you permanently stitch it and usually removed after the permanent stitching is done. bias tape -- a length of fabric tape cut on-the-bias and used for binding edges. Usually available pre-made and packaged in the notions section of the fabric store. dart -- used for shaping of the bustline and hips (and other places). Shows on your pattern as a V-shaped marking. You mark it on the fabric, bring the lines of the V together with pins, and sew on the lines. fray -- to have fabric come unwoven along it's raw, cut edge. Fabric that frays easily is difficult to work with. garb -- term used for your clothing while "in costume". Different from mundane clothing or a party costume.

10. MORE PRACTICAL VOCABULARY gore -- a wedge shaped addition of fabric used in skirts and long coats to increase the fullness at the hem without adding bulk at the waist. gusset -- a small piece of fabric added into a seam to increase fullness, particularly at underarms and crotch. lap -- overlay one layer of fabric with another. A lapped seam usually has the 5/8" seam allowance lying over another one and then top stitched. mundane -- normal, real world, every-day stuff --clothing, people, food, etc. nap -- the direction in which fur or velvet lies. If you brush it along the nap it will be smooth. If you brush against the nap it will be rough.

11. EVEN MORE PRACTICAL VOCABULARY notch -- the little V-shaped or double-V tabby bits along the cutting lines of a pattern. You use them to match up different pattern pieces during assembly. Typically the single-V tab will match up somewhere else in the pattern with another single-V tab, and the double-V tab will match another double-V. period -- authentic to or appropriate to the time period you are researching. pile -- the depth of the fabric. Fake fur, plush and velvet have pile. right side -- the "front" or "top" of a patterned fabric, the side where the print shows best, the "good side". seam allowance -- an extra allowance of fabric around your pattern so that the seam has something to hold onto when it is assembled. selvedge -- the finished woven edge of a piece of fabric as it comes off the bolt. Not the raw cut edge.

12. IS IT EVER GONNA STOP, PRACTICAL VOCABULARY stay stitch -- a line of stitching taken to provide hidden strength inside a seam or to prevent a raw edge from unravelling or losing shape. The stitched threads act to stabilize the fabric threads. straight grain -- the length of the goods as it comes off the bolt, also known as the warp. It is often important to line up pattern pieces with the grain so that the printed pattern is all going the same way, the material drapes properly, and any differences in nap don't show in the finished goods. Sometimes it is important to get straight edges on the grain and curves positioned on the bias (diagonal) so the seams stretch --or not-- for proper fit. trim -- ribbon, braid, or decorative edging used to liven up a costume.

13. IMPORTANT MEASUREMENTS For Women Height Bust Waist Hips Back of neck to waist Waist to shoe top Across back from shoulder to shoulder Arm length from shoulder to wrist For Men Height Chest Waist Inseam Back of neck to waist Across back from shoulder to shoulder Collar size Arm length from shoulder to wrist

14. QUESTIONS TO ANSWER AND TURN IN