Chemistry Chapter 5.

Chemistry Chapter 5

Chapter 5 Tour: Chemistry
The pH Scale Pages Describe the pH scale and values associated with water, acids and alkalines. 2 Matter Pages Describe matter, the five elements of hair and the structure and behavior of atoms and bonds 1 Chemistry of Cosmetics Pages Identify the precautions necessary for various classifications of chemicals when working with professional products and cosmetics. 3

Chemistry Matter Elements Chemical Bonds Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

The amount of carbon in the human body is enough to fill about 9,000 lead pencils.
Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

CHEMISTRY 101 Solids Chemistry Organic chemistry Liquids Elements
Inorganic chemistry Gases Protons Physical change Atoms Neutrons Chemical change Molecules Electrons

Matter Anything that occupies space Exists in 3 forms
Definite weight but indefinite volume and shape 3. Gases Definite weight and volume but indefinite shape H2O 2. Liquids Definite weight, volume and shape 1. Solids Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Physical change
change in the physical characteristics of a substance without creating a new substance e.g. when water freezes and becomes ice it is still water, but now it’s a solid instead of a liquid

Matter Chemical change
Change in a substance that creates a new substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance E.g. when hydrogen combines with oxygen to form a new substance, water Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Chemistry is the scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter 1. Organic chemistry: deals with matter that is living or was alive, with carbon present 2. Inorganic chemistry: studies matter that is not alive, has never been alive and does not contain carbon Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Beyond the Book No matter its size or thickness, a piece of paper cannot be folded in half more than seven times.

C Elements O All matter is composed of elements There are 118 known elements Most important for a cosmetologist to know are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur H N S Use this acronym to remember the elements found in hair: COHNS (Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Sulfur) Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Elements Atoms Smallest complete unit of an element
Composed of three main parts Protons: positive electrical charge, located in the nucleus Neutrons: no electrical charge, located in the nucleus Electrons: negative electrical charge, located around the nucleus Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Elements Atoms Hydrogen
The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of electrons in the outer shell. Hydrogen Simplest atomic structure 1 proton and 1 electron Atomic number of 1 Hydrogen Atom (H) Positive proton Negative electron Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Elements Molecules Two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond The result is H2O One oxygen atom and its eight electrons Two hydrogen atoms, each with one electron Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Elements With an element, the atoms are the SAME
Molecules With an element, the atoms are the SAME With a compound, the atoms are DIFFERENT Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Elements Beyond the Book
The earth with it’s core, mantle and crust. An egg, which has the yolk, white and shell. Cells, which have nucleus, cytoplasm and membrane. Consider the shape and design of the atom. It has a center (nucleus), some space and then an outer layer (the electrons). Look at all of the examples in nature that follow that design.

Chemical Bonds Amino Acids
Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen 22 common amino acids join together in chains to become proteins Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Hair Amino Acids Form of protein called keratin
97% keratin protein 3% trace minerals 19 amino acids found in hair must all be present or the structure won’t be hair Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Peptide bonds are the “backbone” of all protein molecules
Chemical Bonds Peptide Bonds (End Bonds) Polypeptide bonds (“poly” means many) connect thousands of amino acids together Peptide bonds (end bonds) form when the ends of amino acids join together Peptide bonds are the “backbone” of all protein molecules Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Hair is the linking together of protein groups
Peptide Bonds (End Bonds) Hair is the linking together of protein groups Important not to disturb peptide bonds Combination of alkaline chemicals and heat could break these bonds and destroy the protein structure Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds
Keratin strands are linked with four side bonds Hydrogen bond Salt bond Disulfide bond van der Waal’s Forces Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds: Hydrogen
Works on principle that unlike charges attract Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of another molecule with many negative electrons Hair has many hydrogen bonds, which are individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water 35% of hair’s strength is due to millions of hydrogen bonds in structure Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds: Salt
Result of attraction of unlike charges; the negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another Account for 35% of hair’s resistance to change Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds: Hydrogen and Salt
Weakened by water, leaving the hair more pliable Wrapping the hair around a roller under tension and drying it results in a new shape New shape is only temporary because exposure to water can break the new bonds Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds: Disulfide
Result of sulfur-type side chains joining with other sulfur-type side chains Most important bond to cosmetology Many chemical services directly affect the disulfide bond by either breaking it or reforming it, producing a chemical change with lasting results Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Side Bonds: van der Waal’s Forces
Based on a theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have similar structures Not important for cosmetology services other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding protein chains Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Stages of Hair Formation
The protein chains bond, side-by-side, to other chains through hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, disulfide bonds, and van der Waal’s Forces The bonding of protein chains to other protein chains makes human hair The ends of the amino acids bond to form peptide bonds Hair begins with individual atoms, the smallest unit of matter. The amino acids create polypeptide protein chains Atoms unite by sharing electrons to become molecules of amino acids Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemical Bonds Beyond the Book A single strand of hair can support a load of about 100 grams without breaking. This strength comes primarily from the keratin protein.

On a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions.
Matter Self-Check On a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT: Sulfur Helium Carbon Oxygen Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check T or F
Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell. Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check Matching
Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another Backbone of all protein molecules; formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of another molecule with many negative electrons Most important bond to a stylist’s work Peptide Bond Hydrogen Bond Salt Bond Disulfide Bond Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check KNOW CHART
As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know” column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column. KNOW CHART I Know: I Need to Study: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check Now check your work.
Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT: Sulfur Helium Carbon Oxygen matter Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check T or F
Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell. Protons and neutrons are packed together tightly to form nucleus. Electrons move about the nucleus on orbiting paths. electrons Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Matter Self-Check Peptide Bond Hydrogen Bond Salt Bond Disulfide Bond
b. Backbone of all protein molecules; formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of another molecule with many negative electrons a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another d. Most important bond to a stylist’s work Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

   Lessons Learned Matter Elements
Face the Facts Lessons Learned Matter Matter is defined as anything that occupies space Elements The five elements found in the hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur Atoms are the smallest complete unit of an element and consist of protons, neutrons and electrons    Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

    Lessons Learned Chemical Bonds
Face the Facts Lessons Learned  Protons and neutrons are located in the nucleus A molecule is two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond Chemical Bonds Hair is a form of protein called keratin The peptide bond forms when two amino acids are positioned end to end causing the acid end of one to attach to the amino end of another    Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

   Lessons Learned Chemical Bonds
Face the Facts Lessons Learned Chemical Bonds Hair has many hydrogen bonds which gives hair about 35% of its strength Salt bonds are the result of the attraction of unlike charges and account for another 35% of hair’s strength The disulfide bond is the most important to a cosmetologist’s work since many chemical services break or reform this bond into a new shape    Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

IT’S 2 U! Draw an example of a physical change in matter; then, explain why this is a physical change. Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Answer IT’S 2 U! Cutting a piece of paper is an example of a physical change because the chemical makeup of the paper remains the same. Chapter 5.1 Chemistry Matter

Chemistry The pH Scale Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Have you ever tested various foods to determine their pH?
Whole Wheat Bread pH 5.5 – 5.8 Tomatoes pH 4.3 – 4.9 Oranges pH 3.7 – 4.3 Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

CHEMISTRY 101 pH pH number Acidic pH balanced Neutral Acid balanced
Alkaline

The pH Scale pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline Measures the amount of acid or alkali in a water-based solution Only solutions containing water and/or which dissolve in water can have an acidic or alkaline nature Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

The pH Scale Acidic Solution: More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions Neutral Solution: Equal number of positive and negative ions Alkaline Solution: More negative hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

The pH Scale Ranges from 0 to 14 with number 7 as neutral
Numbers less than seven indicate acid Numbers greater than seven indicate alkaline Distilled water is neutral Scale is logarithmic, which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10 Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Acid Balanced The pH Scale
pH balanced means the pH is balanced at a certain number Acid balanced means pH is between 4.5 to 5.5 Acid balanced is term applied to most professional shampoos and conditioners Acid Balanced Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

The pH of the body is greatly influenced by your emotions.
The pH Scale Beyond the Book The pH of the body is greatly influenced by your emotions. Joyous, happy, love-filled emotions tend to create alkaline-forming chemical reactions in the body. Conversely, emotions which are filled with anger, fear, jealousy, hate, etc. create acidic-forming chemical reactions in the body.

The pH Scale Self-Check
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-7, answer the following questions. True or False The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Matching Acidic solution Alkaline solution Neutral solution pH value of approximately 7 pH values less than 7 pH values greater than 7 Chapter 5.2 Chemistry Matter

As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know” column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column. KNOW CHART I Know: I Need to Study: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry Matter

Now check your work. True or False The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline. False Numbers less than 7 indicate acid. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions. neutral hydrogen hydroxide hydroxide hydrogen Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Acidic solution b. pH values less than 7 Alkaline solution c. pH values greater than 7 Neutral solution a. pH value of approximately 7 Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

   Lessons Learned The pH Scale
Face the Facts Lessons Learned The pH Scale pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 Numbers less than 7 on the pH scale indicate acid while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkaline    Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Face the Facts Lessons Learned  The pH scale is logarithmic which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10 Distilled water has a pH value close to 7 Acid balanced means the pH is in the acid range of 4.5 to 5.5   Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

IT’S 2 U! Draw an example of a chemical change in matter; then, explain why this is a chemical change. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Answer IT’S 2 U! Burning wood is an example of a chemical change because the chemical makeup of wood is altered. Chapter 5.2 Chemistry The pH Scale

Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics Cosmetic Classifications
Product Information Chemistry of Cosmetics Shampoos Hair Color Rinses and Conditioners Curl Reformation Perms Relaxers Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

In fact, the water level will go down.
If you slowly pour a handful of salt into a totally full glass of water it will not overflow. In fact, the water level will go down. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

CHEMISTRY 101 Solutions Curl Reformation Immiscible Hydrometer
Lipophilic Miscible Emulsions Oxidants Surfactants Amines Metallic Dyes Dimethicones Hydrophilic Quats

Cosmetic Classifications
Six general classifications categorize cosmetics used in the cosmetology industry Solutions Suspensions Emulsions Ointments Soaps Powders Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Solutions Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules, evenly dispersed Solute: substance that dissolves into a liquid and forms solution Solvent: substance that is able to dissolve another substance No separation when standing Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Solutions Water is the universal solvent because it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Suspensions Mixture of two or more kinds of molecules Separate when left standing and need to be shaken before use Vinegar and oil as a salad dressing preparation is an example Calamine lotion is an example of a product Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Emulsions Two or more non-mixable substances united by a binder or gum-like substance Examples are oil-in-water (perm solution) and water-in-oil (cold creams) Most used in the cosmetology industry are oil-in-water Liquids not able to be mixed are IMMISCIBLE Liquids able to be mixed together without separating are MISCIBLE Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Styling Lotion Cosmetic Classifications Ointments
Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent Water generally not present Sticks (lipstick), pastes (some eye shadows or blush) and mucilages (thick liquids such as styling lotions) Styling Lotion Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Soaps Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified Include deodorant, beauty, medicated, and antibacterial soaps Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Powders Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do NOT dissolve in water Sifted and mixed until free of coarse, gritty particles Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Cosmetic Classifications Beyond the Book
The cochineal insect, which lives on the prickly pear cactus in the southwestern United States, is an excellent source of natural red dye. The insects are dried and ground into a powder that is cooked to release the maximum amount of color. The powder is then used as a dye for fiber, fabric, and basketry materials. Most brands of lipstick and some kinds of fruit drinks are tinted with cochineal extract.

Shampoos Clean the scalp and hair to remove all foreign matter without adversely affecting scalp or hair Should be a soothing, relaxing experience Improper or irregular cleansing allows a breeding place for disease-causing bacteria Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos How Shampoo Works
Shampoo contains a surfactant, which is used to remove oil from the hair Surfactant is a two-part molecule 1. Water-loving part (hydrophilic) 2. Oil-loving part (lipophilic) Surfactant causes oil to “roll up” into droplets, which are lifted into water and washed away Lipophilic Hydrophilic Oil Water Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Water makes up 85% of the human body
Shampoos The Role of Water Water makes up 85% of the human body Hard water contains certain salts and metals that prevent shampoo from lathering Soft water contains small amounts of minerals and is preferred because it lathers freely Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Sedimentation Filtration Shampoos
The Role of Water: Water Purification Sedimentation: undesirable substances sink to the bottom Filtration: undesirable substances pass through a porous substance Sedimentation Filtration Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos All-purpose shampoos
Contain a low alkaline content and a low concentration of surface active agents Do not strip color and are very mild Acid-balanced (non-stripping) shampoos Formulated to have the same pH as the hair and skin and can be used on all types of hair Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos “Plain” shampoos
Usually strong and contain a high alkaline soap base and are not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair Soapless shampoos Lather without harsh alkaline ingredients Effective in both soft and hard water Rinse out easily Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos Medicated shampoos
Designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders Clarifying shampoos Use a higher alkalinity in order to remove residue such as product build-up, dirt, etc Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos Anti-dandruff shampoos
Contain an anti-fungus or germicide to control dandruff or other conditions that could breed infections Liquid dry shampoos Cleanse the scalp and hair when the client is unable to receive normal shampoo Effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces Highly flammable and should be used with caution Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos Powder dry shampoos
Formulated for clients who are bedridden Contain orris root powder that absorbs soil and oil as the product is brushed through the scalp and hair Conditioning shampoos Contain additives that can improve the tensile strength and porosity of hair and will be removed with next shampoo Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Types of Shampoos Color shampoos
Contain temporary color molecules that adhere to the outer cuticle of the hair and deposit color Shampoos for thinning hair Formulated as gentle shampoos, with a lighter molecular weight that does not cause damage or weigh hair down Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Shampoos Beyond the Book Using borax or egg yolks for shampoo, most women washed their hair once a month in 1902.

Rinses and Conditioners
COSMETIC APPEARANCE is the luster or shine of the hair POROSITY is the amount of moisture the hair can absorb MANAGEABILITY is how easily a comb can pass through the hair ELASTICITY is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Affect mostly the surface of the hair Applied to help close the cuticle and make hair feel soft and manageable Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Vinegar and lemon (acid) rinses Keep the cuticle compact Dissolve soap scum and curds, untangle and separate the hair and add sheen Creme rinses Soften and add luster Slightly acidic Medicated rinses Control minor dandruff and scalp conditions Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Penetrate deep into the hair to fortify damaged areas and protect from further damage from chemical services or heat Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Instant conditioners Coat hair shaft and restore moisture and oils Do not penetrate cortex or replace keratin in shaft Normalizing conditioners Contain a vegetable protein and have an acidic pH causing the cuticle to close after alkaline chemical service Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Body-building conditioners Penetrate damaged hair shaft and deposit proteins into cortex Moisturizing conditioners Recommended for dry, brittle hair that has been mechanically or chemically damaged Humectants will penetrate into each hair shaft to bind and hold moisture Customized conditioners Formulated to meet special needs of a certain client Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Ingredients for Conditioners Most derived from animal or vegetable materials, and a few come from minerals Amines/Quats make hair easier to comb and control static Dimethicones give hair softness without weighing it down Fatty alcohols and acids give hair a smooth feel when dry and make easier to comb; help retain moisture Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Beyond the Book Existing in ancient times, conditioner did not become popular until the 1950s. The ancient Egyptians created conditioners out of fats and oils.

Perms Allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation Rinsing removes the processing lotion. Neutralizer reforms disulfide bonds into new configuration. Processing lotion is applied to break disulfide bonds. This softens the protein structure and allows protein chains to assume shape of perm tool. Hair is wrapped around perm tools chosen to reflect the desired curl pattern. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Perms 1. 2. Fall into two primary categories:
Alkaline waves (cold waves); processed without heat; pH of 2. Acid waves (heat waves); processed with heat; wrapped with tension; pH of Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Perms Alkaline waves Main ingredients are thioglycolic acid and ammonium hydroxide which shortens the processing time Acid waves Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate Neutralizers Main ingredient is either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Perms Beyond the Book In 1905, the first heat permanent waving machine was invented by Charles Nessler.

Relaxers Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing molecular structure Relaxing product is applied to hair and holds it in a straight position; smoothing action is applied to softened hair causing protein structure to relax to straighter position Neutralizing step reduces swelling caused by alkaline formulas; causes hair to be held in new straight configuration Before After Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Relaxers Two popular types of products to relax the hair
Sodium hydroxide Ammonium thioglycolate ALERT! Sodium hydroxide and thioglycolate are not compatible. Do not use one on top of the other. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Relaxers Beyond the Book Sodium hydroxide is also used in producing rayon and other textiles, in making paper, in etching aluminum, in making soaps and detergents, and in a wide variety of other processes.

Curl Reformation Service used to loosen the texture of overly curly hair; also called a soft curl perm Chemical rearranger and curl booster are thioglycolate-based Chemical rearranger is rinsed before complete relaxation of the hair takes place Processing solution (curl booster) is applied and perm rods are used to achieve the new curl formation Extending processing time can damage the hair Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Curl Reformation Beyond the Book Curl reformation may remove anywhere from 65 to 95 percent of the hair’s curl.

Hair Color General categories: Nonoxidative Color Oxidative Color
Lighteners Developers Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Nonoxidative Colors Temporary Colors
Non-reactive, direct dyes that coat surface of hair shaft Called certified colors and are accepted by the government for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics Last until they are shampooed out Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Nonoxidative Colors Semi-permanent colors
Last through several shampoos Able to penetrate the cuticle layer of the hair Molecules are smaller in size and weight than those in temporary color products Slightly alkaline Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Oxidative Colors Long lasting semi-permanent colors
Use low volume peroxide to develop color molecules and aid in color depositing Ammonia: colorless gas with a strong odor, composed of hydrogen and nitrogen Only able to add color to hair Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Oxidative Colors Permanent hair colors
Colorless molecules combine with peroxide resulting in colored molecules Molecules enter hair with the aid of alkaline substance and oxidize in the cuticle and cortex, linking together to form a permanent colored molecule Can lighten natural color or deposit artificial color Removed only by chemical means or the hair grows out and is cut off Primary ingredient is usually paraphenylene diamine Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Oxidative Colors ALERT!
Because allergies to analine tints are unpredictable, manufacturer labels prescribe a patch test to be given 24 hours before any application. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Lighteners Lightening is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing Involves oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair Made up of a combination of ingredients including an alkaline substance such as ammonia Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Lighteners On-the-scalp lighteners
Applied directly on the scalp Oil lighteners use ammonia to give high lift Cream lighteners contain conditioners, and creamy consistency keeps them in place on the hair preventing running or dripping Off-the-scalp lighteners Contain alkaline salts and a strong oxidizing agent that is mixed with peroxide Stronger than the oil or cream lighteners Lighten faster Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Developers Hydrogen peroxide is most common developer
Most often used strength is a 20 volume solution Hydrometer measures strength Shelf life is usually 3 years Store in a cool, dry place Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
Henna is an example of a vegetable dye; its repeated use coats and builds up causing hair damage Called progressive colors because the more these colors are used, the more color change takes place Pure metallic dyes are incompatible with other chemical services Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Hair Color Beyond the Book Fascinated with hair dyes, the Romans uncovered nearly 100 different formulas used to alter hair color. Ingredients ranged from leeches and charred eggs to walnut shells.

FDA U.S.P. Product Information
Material Safety Data Sheets from manufacturer are the best source of information about a product Additional resources are Federal Drug Administration, United States Pharmacopeia and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary FDA U.S.P. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Product Information Cosmetic Ingredients
Ingredients listed on a product label are in order of their concentration with the largest amount listed first More than 5000 different ingredients are used by the cosmetic industry Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Product Information Cosmetic Ingredients Moisturizers Preservatives
Antimicrobials Thickeners Solvents Emulsifiers Color Haircolor pH Adjusters Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Product Information Salon Products and their pH Ranges
Three ways of testing pH in professional products: nitrazine paper, pH pencil and the pH meter pH range of 4.5 – 5.5 keeps hair, skin and nails closest to natural, healthy state Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Product Information Health Risks
Possible health effects from chemicals you work with depend on amount, toxicity, length of exposure, mode of entrance to body and individual sensitivity Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Product Information Beyond the Book You can develop an allergic reaction to an ingredient in a product that you have used for years. Therefore, producers are required to list ingredients in their products which are likely to cause allergic reactions.

Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-17, answer the following questions. True or False Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Matching All-purpose shampoos “Plain” shampoos Medicated shampoos Anti-dandruff shampoos Powder dry shampoos Formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair Contain high alkaline content and are not recommended for chemically treated hair Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic? lemon creme vinegar medicated Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT: Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and acid waves Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by: a. using a low volume peroxide b. using a thioglycolate-based product c. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfide d. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Matching Nonoxidative colors Oxidative colors Lightening Developers Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair A less professional category of hair color in which the more of these colors are used, the more color change takes place Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in order of their __________. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know” column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column. KNOW CHART I Know: I Need to Study: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Now check your work. True or False Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair. True Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

All-purpose shampoos c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition “Plain” shampoos b. Contain high alkaline content and are not recommended for chemically treated hair Medicated shampoos e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders Anti-dandruff shampoos d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp Powder dry shampoos a. Formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic? lemon creme vinegar medicated Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called ______________. conditioners Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT: Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and acid waves Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by: a. using a low volume peroxide b. using a thioglycolate-based product c. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfide d. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer relaxers Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Nonoxidative colors c. Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle Oxidative colors d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide Lightening a. Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair Developers e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes b. A less professional category of hair color in which the more of these colors are used, the more color change takes place Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in order of their _____________. concentration Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

   Lessons Learned Shampoos
Face the Facts Lessons Learned Shampoos Shampoos contain surfactants that have a water-loving part (hydrophilic) and an oil-loving part (lipophilic) and are used to remove oil from the hair All-purpose shampoos contain a low alkaline content and a low concentration of surface active agents “Plain” shampoos can be used successfully on virgin hair in good condition, but are not recommended for chemically treated hair    Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Face the Facts Lessons Learned  Medicated shampoos contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders Anti-dandruff shampoos are formulated for either a dry or oily scalp and contain an anti-fungus or germicide ingredient and conditioners Powder dry shampoos are formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair   Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

   Lessons Learned Rinses and Conditioners Perms
Face the Facts Lessons Learned Rinses and Conditioners Creme rinses are creamy in appearance and adhere to the hair shaft leaving the hair with a soft feel Conditioners fortify damaged areas of the hair and protect it against further damage from chemical services or heat Perms Perms fall into two categories, alkaline waves and acid waves, and allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation    Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

    Lessons Learned Relaxers Curl Reformation Hair Color
Face the Facts Lessons Learned Relaxers A chemical relaxer reduces curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing its molecular structure Curl Reformation A soft curl perm is a service that uses thioglycolate-based products to relax overly curly hair and then perm the hair to achieve a new curl formation Hair Color Nonoxidative colors are not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle Oxidative colors are mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide     Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

Face the Facts Lessons Learned  Lightening the hair is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair Hydrogen peroxide is the most common developer used in hair coloring and in hair lightening Product Information When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in the order of their concentration   Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

On a sheet of paper complete the following statements.
IT’S 2 U! On a sheet of paper complete the following statements. My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I am classified as a gas. My name is _________. My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I am classified as a solid. My name is ________. My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O; I am classified as a gas. My name is ________. Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

IT’S 2 U! Now check your work.
My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I am classified as a gas. My name is _________. My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I am classified as a solid. My name is ________. My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O; I am classified as a gas. My name is ________. Hydrogen Carbon Oxygen Chapter 5.3 Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics

On a sheet of paper numbered 1-10, answer the following questions.
Chemistry Self-Test On a sheet of paper numbered 1-10, answer the following questions. Which of the following conditions indicates a chemical change? a. water to ice b. water to steam c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to form water d. raindrops turning to snow Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 2. The three main parts of an atom are:
a. protons, neutrons and electrons b. protons, elements and compounds c. neutrons, shells and electrons d. electrons, atoms and elements Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 3. Amino acids that create proteins are linked together end to end by: a. alkaline bonds b. peptide bonds c. side bonds d. salt bonds Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 4. The pH scale measurement indicates whether a substance is: a. a liquid, solid or gas b. organic or inorganic c. young or old d. acidic, neutral or alkaline Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 5. All of the following statements regarding pH are true EXCEPT: pH measurement scale ranges from 0 to 14 a solution is acidic if it has more negative hydroxide ions solutions with equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions are neutral pH is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 6. When a solute is dissolved in a solvent it is a(n): a. suspension b. emulsion c. solution d. ointment Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 7. A solute mixed in a solvent that tends to separate if left standing is a(n): a. suspension b. emulsion c. solution d. ointment Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 8. Which item is formed when two or more non-mixable substances are united with the help of a binder? a. solution b. powder c. ointment d. emulsion Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 9. Most ingredients for conditioners are proteins derived from: a. soft water b. lemon rinses c. creme rinses d. animal or vegetable materials Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test 10. A product label has the ingredients listed in:
a. order of their concentration b. reverse order of their concentration c. random order d. alphabetical order Chapter 5 Chemistry

Time to check the self-test
Chemistry Self-Test Time to check the self-test c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to form water a. protons, neutrons and electrons b. peptide bonds d. acidic, neutral or alkaline b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative hydroxide ions Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test c. solution a. suspension d. emulsion
d. animal or vegetable materials a. order of their concentration Chapter 5 Chemistry

Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chapter 5: Chemistry Chemistry of Cosmetics Matter A thorough understanding of the principles of chemistry helps in marketing products, making sound decision about appropriate services and guarding the safety of your client. The pH Scale

Chemistry Chapter 5.

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Chemistry Chapter 5.

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