1. Advanced Nail Techniques
Chapter 23
Advanced Nail Techniques

2. The nail industry experienced great expansion when the first acrylic artificial nail extensions were introduced in the 1970’s. Cher started a trend of very long nails that were squared off on the ends. By the 1980’s , manufactures had developed product that created very natural looking artificial nails. At that time, the nail industry became the fastest growing area in the entire field of cosmetology, and it’s still growing today. In fact, the field of manicuring has grown and developed to such an extent that professionals are now known as nail technicians rather than manicurist. Nail techs or cosmetologists who fine-tune their skills with artificial nails earn a very good income.

3. We will explore the various techniques and procedures used to apply natural-looking nails as well as other advanced nail techniques. These procedures are beneficial to those individuals who cannot grow strong natural nails of the desired length. Artificial nails may be used to :
Mend or conceal broken or damaged nails
Improve the appearance of very short or badly shaped nails
Help overcome the habit of nail biting
Protect a nail or nails against splitting or breakage
Advanced nails techniques such as wrapping with linen, silk or fiberglass can be used over natural nails just to make them stronger as well

4. Advanced nail techniques
One of the first things we notice about someone is their hands and fingernails. With the technology of the 21st century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a professional cosmetologist skilled in nail technology, can help your clients have better-looking hands

5. Pre-service consultation
As with any other service you offer, a thorough client consultation should be conducted prior to offering any advanced nail technique
The procedure is the same as for any other nail service consultation and is included in the pre-service procedure for artificial nails

6. Artificial Nails Nail tips Nail tip and overlay
Pre-formed artificial nails applied to the tips of natural fingernails; commonly made of plastic, nylon or acetate
Nail tip and overlay
Any wrap, acrylic,or gel applied over the natural nail and nail tip to strengthen the nail and create a more permanent service

7. Artificial Nails Securing process
Nail tips are secured to the natural nails with glue or bonding agents
These agents come in either a tube with pointed applicator tip, a one-drop applicator or as a brush-on
CAUTION: wear safety glasses to avoid getting even the smallest amount of glue in the client’s eyes or yours

8. Artificial Nails Tip construction
Tips have a well that serves as the point of contact with the nail plate
The position stop is the point where the nail plate meets the tip before it is glued to the nail
Tips should never cover more than half of the natural nail plate

9. Artificial Nails Tip preparation
Pre-bevel along the edge closest to the cuticle to thin out the plastic
Pre-beveling requires less filing on the natural nail after application and cuts down potential for damage to the natural nail

10. Artificial Nails Nail wraps
A corrective treatment that forms a protective coating or damaged or fragile nails
Wraps can be applied over the natural nail or over a set of tips
Silk
Gives a smooth, even appearance; becomes transparent when adhesive is applied
Fiberglass
Thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave that makes it easy for adhesive to penetrate; it is strong and durable

11. Artificial Nails Linen
Provides a durable wrap, but the coarse material requires a colored polish to cover the completed nail; thicker than silk or fiberglass; remains opaque even after adhesive is applied
Paper
Made of very thin paper and dissolve in both acetone and non-acetone remover; temporary, rarely used, and must be reapplied when polish is removed; glued to top of nail plate and under the free edge

12. Artificial Nails Availability Application
Small swatches of mending material are available for custom cutting; pre-cut wraps with an adhesive backing are also available
Application
Glue is used to apply the wrap material
An adhesive dryer may also be used

13. Liquid nail wrap
This is a polish made with tiny fibers designed to strengthen and preserve the natural nail as it grows
It is brushed on in several directions to create a network that, when hardened, protects the nail
It is similar to nail hardener, though it is of a thicker consistency and contains more fiber

14. Acrylic Nails
Often referred to as sculptured nails; created by combining a liquid acrylic product with a powdered product
When joined, the two products form a soft ball that can be molded into a nail shape; can be applied over natural nails, over tips, or over paper or metal forms

15. Acrylic Nails Science of acrylic nails 3 basic ingredients Monomer
Substance made up of many small molecules that are not attached to one another; liquid acrylic is a type of monomer
Polymer
Hard substance formed by combining many small molecules (monomers), usually in a long chair-like structure
Polymers and monomers are developed from the same chemistry except that one remains in liquid form (monomer) while the other is powdered (polymer)

16. Acrylic Nails Catalyst
Any substance having the powder to increase the velocity (speed) of a chemical reaction
Powdered acrylic is a combination of ground-up polymer and a catalyst
Process begins when the liquid from the brush picks up the powder from the jar
The catalyst “explodes” when it comes in contact with the monomer, causing heat
The heat starts a chain reaction from one polymer bead to the other
This transfer continues until the last polymer beard receives heat
This hardening process is also referred to as curing

17. Acrylic Nails Good ventilation required Primers
You should also consider wearing a safety mask to prevent the inhalation of dust
Primers
Substance that improves adhesion, or attachment, and prepares the nail surface for bonding with the acrylic material
Acid primer is widely used to help bind the acrylic to the natural nail
Non-acid primer is noninvasive to the natural nail and not corrosive on the skin but may not be as effective as acid primer

18. Acrylic Nails Primers Dot on, do not brush on Do not over-prime
It spreads evenly without having to brush over the entire nail surface
Do not over-prime
Overly primed nails can become too slick and can cause the acrylic to lift
Allow primer to dry naturally
Follow directions
Wear gloves and safety glasses

19. Acrylic Nails over Forms
Fills
The application of acrylic product to the new growth of the natural nail
Frequency
Should be filled in every two o three weeks, depending upon how fast the natural nail grows
Rebalancing
During the fill, the shape of the nail should be redefined; this is called rebalancing

20. Gels
Gels are strong, durable artificial nails that are brushed onto the nail plate
Their chemical consistency is similar to acrylic products, but they require a separate catalyst to endure hardening
Two types
Light-cured
Harden when exposed to a special light source, either ultraviolet or halogen
No –light
Harden when an activator or accelerator is sprayed or brushed on or when soaked in water
Thicker glues that can be applied alone or over silk or fiberglass wraps

21. Dipped Nails Created by dipping the nail into acrylic powder
Uses a cyanoacrylate rather than acrylic monomer
Apply a thick brush-on glue to the nail surface
Dip nail into powder or sprinkle on
Reapply glue, dip again & glue again
Some systems require an activator
File and shape to finish
polish

22. Drills Motorized implement with various attachments and speeds
They are easy to use if fused properly
Client’s hand should be held securely and drilling should occur slowly
Uses
General cleaning under nail
Clean away peeling of natural nail
Shape the curve of an acrylic nail
Shorten the free edge of an artificial nail
Work across the tip of fee edge only, NEVER use drill on top of natural nail

23. Drills Drill bits Cleaning bits Coarse, football-shaped
Most commonly used
Medium, cylinder-shaped
Cleaning bits
Soak in brush cleaner
At least 1 to 2 hours or overnight
Drill servicing should occur annually

24. Common problems with Artificial nails
Separation from the natural nail near the cuticle or on the sides, it is called lifting
Causes of lifting
Etching
Nail plate or inside of nail tip may not have been properly etched with coarse file
Primer
Not allowed to dry completely or was not applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Product placement
Applied or allowed to run onto the cuticle or sidewalls of the nail unit
Improper mixture of product
If acrylic product (monomer & polymer) is combined in either a too wet-wet or too-dry formulation, it will become brittle and lifting an occur

25. Common problems with Artificial nails
Dust was not removed
All duct must be removed from nail plate after etching, if it is not, lifting can occur
Nails are too thick
Product is applied to heavily, it will reduce flexibility and increase the possibility of lifting, especially if the client hits the nail against a hard surface
Contaminated or oil product
If any product, liquid, powder or primer, become contaminated or too old, their effectiveness will diminish and lifting an occur
Nails are too long
If client isn’t comfortable wearing extremely long nails, pressure can be caused at the cuticle resulting in lifting
Fill schedule not followed
Should be filled at least every 2-3 weeks, if they wait longer that that, the product adhesion can weaken and cause lifting

26. Common problems with Artificial nails
Using acetone polish remover
Acetone can weaken acrylic product as well as all wrap products
Deleting glue application
A coat of glue must be applied to the natural nail and allowed to dry completely before applying any wrap product
Too many layers of silk/linen

27. Causes of breaking Stress area is too thin Contaminated or old product
Ball of product applied at the stress area must be thicker (of medium consistency) as this is where the most stress will occur for the client when wearing acrylic nails
Contaminated or old product
Nails are too long for client
Product consistency
Product was either too wet or too dry causing brittleness resulting in breakage

28. Causes of breaking Product made too thin
Acrylic product becomes too thin and brittle because an electric drill has been misused or over-used on the surface of the nail
Fill or replacement schedule not followed
Nails should be replaced every six months

29. Causes of peeling
When the underside of the artificial nail separates from the natural nail at the free edge, it is known as peeling
It can cause the entire sculptured nail to pop off
It occurs primarily on clients with thin natural nails
Applying a thin coat of glue on the underside of the natural nail will help strengthen or “thicken” the natural nail
Fungus

30. Safety Precautions Use a new orangewood stick with each client
Keep all products from touching the skin, they may cause sensitivities
Keep alcohol nearby in case acrylic gets hot from the chemical action of the product
Soften the edges on your abrasive, a new file can etch a groove in the nail during filing
If you accidentally touch the nails after you apply antiseptic, you must clean them again and reapply
Put on safety gloves and safety glasses, off safety glasses to your client

31. Safety Precautions
Check primer for clarity on a regular basis to make sure it is not contaminated with bacteria. If bacteria is present, the primer will appear cloudy
Use primer sparingly, it can cause irritation or primer burn if it touches the skin
If you accidentally spill primer on your clothing, remove the soiled garment immediately
Acrylic applied too thickly near the cuticle or touching the cuticle will lift

32. Safety Precautions
Do not use a nipper to clip away loose cuticle. Nipper may make the lifting problem worse and can damage the nail plate. If lifting is excessive. Soak off the acrylic and start fresh with a new nail application
Make sure bottles are tightly capped when not in use
Do not store acrylic products near heat, or use near an open flame

33. Nail Art
A way to offer endless creative opportunities and allow clients to express their unique personalities
It can be conservative or flamboyant
There are number of innovations to consider

34. Nail Art Gems Striping tape Foil
Tiny rhinestones in different sizes, colors, shapes used for the design itself or as sparkling accents
Striping tape
Tacky-backed tape to create more linear or graphic designs; comes in a variety of widths, colors, and metallic finishes
Foil
Colored foils are pressed onto the entire nail or part of the nail

35. Nail Art Gold leaf or nuggets Air-brushing Freehand
Comes in fragile sheets which are applied to the nail in large or tiny pieces
Air-brushing
An airbrush and a compressor combine air and paint to form an atomized spray for painting
Stencils may be used to create scenes, graphics or fades
Freehand
A paintbrush and an endless palette of colors allows the technician to customize the client’s nails to any outfit or occasion

36. Summary
We have learned that there is really no reason for someone who desires long, elegant-looking nails to not have them
There are a wide variety of convenient and affordable techniques available that allow clients to extend or strengthen their own nails.
As a cosmetologist or nail technician who offers nail care in your salon, you will want to fine-tune your skills and speed in these important services