1. Personal Care Overview
Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Personal Care Overview

2. Food and animal sector division
Biotechnologies
Seeds
Pesticides
Other services for agriculture
Growers
Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds
Crushing
Oils
Food
Renewable energies
Renewable chemicals
Oil cake
Animal health
and breeding
Animal nutrition
Breeders
Transformation and animal productions
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

3. Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils.
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.
Oleon has production sites in
- Belgium (Ertvelde and Oelegem)
- Germany (Emmerich)
- France (Compiègne)
- Norway (Sandefjord)
In 2009 Oleon started Producing natural esters in Malaysia (Port Klang)

4. Raw Materials
Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…
Oleon Company
Product overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations

5. Oleochemicals are esters, fatty acids, glycerol..
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Applications
Soap, detergents, Personal Care, Lubricants, Food, …

6. Fatty acids (Radiacid) Glycerine, Propylene Glycol
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
5. Formulations
Fatty acids (Radiacid)
Glycerine, Propylene Glycol
Radia esters based on PEG,(Poly)glycerol,
fatty acids, fatty alcohols, sorbitol, …
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Stabilizers
Opacifying
Bodying agents …

7. Radia Esters building blocks
Isostearic
Polyols
Sorbitol
(Poly)glycerol
Fatty alcohols
Fatty Acids
Isoamyl
Pentaerythritol
PEG

8. •HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C. Griffin
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
5. Formulations
•HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C. Griffin
•The letters HLB stand for Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
•It was intended as a large scale road map to good emulsification performance.
•It was invented for use with NONIONIC surfactants in particular.
Hydrophilic head
Lipophilic tail

9. mixing unlike oils together –use surfactants with HLB’s of 1 to 3
• making water-in-oil emulsions
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 4 to 6
• wetting powders into oils
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 9
• making self emulsifying oils
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 10
• making oil-in-water emulsions
–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 8 to 16
• making detergent solutions
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 13 to 15
• for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 13 to 18
Oleon Company
Product overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations

10. R7908: Glyceryl Monolaurate 90%
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Our technology has lead to a monoglyceride %> 90%.
(Co)Emulsifier with HLB of ± 5.0 and super emollient with enhanced skin feel.
Antibacterial properties; good performance on yeasts,moulds and gram +. Addition of a good chelant (EDTA) can increase the performance on gram -.
Viscosity increasing in surfactant systems as hydrophobic thickener where combinations with eg CAPB are made.
Potential of penetration enhancer of active ingredients.

11. Antibacterial Properties of GML
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations

12. PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Radiamuls 2932
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Self emulsifying
HLB of 10-12
INCI: GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE
Gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance
Synergy with Radia (Sorbitan Stearate)
Formation of gel network in water phase
The natural skin moisture barrier is mimicked
Improved moisturizing performance of O/W emulsion
Enhanced stability of emulsion
Skin pleasant rheological profile

13. Anionic,PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Radiamuls 2990
Oleon Company
Product overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Anionic,PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Multi functional
HLB of 16.
INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Skin conditioning and moisturizing
white fluffy powder
light emulsions rich in water
Can also act as a foam booster in cleansing formulations

14. Main products derived from oleic acid can be replaced
Oleon Company
Product overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Saturated Products
Stability, no antioxydant needed
No crystallization
Lower melting point compared
to straight-chain analogues
Liquid products
Cold emulsion process & easy to handle
Important for heat sensitive products
included in high demanding formulations
Branched products
Non greasy afterfeel, lipid film more substantive,
Soft on the skin and glossy aprearance,
Excellent emolliency
Main products derived from oleic acid can be replaced
by the corresponding isostearic derivatives without loss of performance.

15. Neopentylglycol Diisostearate 7687
Product Range (INCI) Radia
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
Formulations
Isostearic Acid / 909
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Triisostearin
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Isopropyl Isostearate
Sorbitan isostearate

16. Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel emollient
Radia 7373
Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel emollient
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Properties and Benefits
Applications
INCI: Triisostearin
Functions as dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments. As solubilizer for active ingredients.
Can help modifying melting points!
Special interest combined with light emollient for long lasting spreadability (no migration).
Comparable to some natural oils but easier to emulsify.
Lipsticks (long lasting)
Colour cosmetics

17. Good substantive and rich emollient
Radia 7179
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Good substantive and rich emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications
INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Functions as emollient, dispersant & water repellent.
Provides high gloss film, resists rub off, reduces drag on application.
Substantive and cushion feel.
Good alternative to castor oil.
Sun care
Liquid foundations
lipsticks
high solid make up

18. Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient
Radia 7380
Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient
Oleon Company
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Properties and Benefits
Applications
INCI: Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Functions as dispersant for solid ingredients, as potential SPF booster.
Delivers shine and plasticizer properties in hair care.
Non tacky sensorial properties.
Improves skin elasticity.
Mineral oil replacement
general skin & hair care
depilatory creams,
colour cosmetics,
sun and baby care,
shaving formulations

19. Silky and good spreading emollient
Radia 7687
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Silky and good spreading emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications
INCI: Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate
Skin Conditioning
Silky and rich skin feel
Sun care
Protective creams
Shaving creams

20. Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and excellent spreadability
Radia 7739
W/O Properties
Product Overview
HLB
Emulsifiers
Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and excellent spreadability
Properties and Benefits
Applications
INCI: Isopropyl Isostearate
Functions as overall reducer of tackiness, effective solvent and disperser.
High gloss & low occlusive.
Fast absorption, imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM), low amount of residue.
Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations
Face and eyes make up

25. Radia 7887 Cold Water-in-oil emulsifier

27. 1. W/O Properties Skin protection Long lasting moisturisation
W/O Applications
Famous Examples
R7887
Formulations
1. W/O Properties
Skin protection
Long lasting moisturisation
Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier
Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients
Reduced preservative concentration

28. 2. W/O Applications Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams Night creams
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous Examples
R7887
Formulations
2. W/O Applications
Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams
Night creams
Creams & lotions for dry and sensitive skin
Skin protective baby creams
Massage milks

29. 4. R7887.. ...is liquid and allows cold production = reduced cost!
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
Formulations
4. R7887..
...is liquid and allows cold production = reduced cost!
...is based on natural raw materials & is PEG free.
...has no need for co-emulsifier  single emulsifier
…is fit for high and low internal face
...provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
…functions at low levels (≥1%)

30. Hot Process Solid emulsifier requires temperature (=cost) input.
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
Solid emulsifier requires temperature (=cost) input.
T (°C)
+/- 80 20 1 2 3
Homogenize 4 5
Hot Process
= Cost

31. R7887 doesn’t require heating = possible cost reduction!
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
R7887 doesn’t require heating = possible cost reduction!
T(C°) 20 1 2 3
Homogenize 4 5

32. Hot Proces vs Cold Proces
Potential cost reduction thanks to cold proces.
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
C. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
Hot Proces vs Cold Proces
Weighing and mixing
Weighing mixing
Heating
Homogenisation
Addition of other raw materials
Cooling & agitation
Filling
Time loss during cooling /
Cooling to room tempurature
Minutes 20 40 60 80
100
120
140
160

33. b. Emollients influence formulation.
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
% water => Viscosity Formulation
Viscosity emollients => Viscosity Formulation
Homogenisation => Stability (& Viscosity) Formulation

34. c. Single Emulsifier.: Test protocol Centrifuge stability
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
Test formulation W/O
Oilphase
Oil or 18 or 30
Emulsifier 1 or 3.5
Waterphase
Glycerol 4
MgSO4.7H2O 0,7
Preservative q.s.
Water to 100%
Low external phase = 10%
High external phase = 30%
Low surfactant = 1%
High surfactant = 3.5%
Centrifuge stability
4000rpm)
Temperature stability
50°C
40°C
3 RT
Viscosity stability ( mPas)
Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle
After 1 day
After 3 months
appearance
Visual aspect

35. c. Single Emulsifier.: Conclusions
W/O Properties
W/O Applications
Famous examples
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
1% emulsifier is stable for MCT and paraffin oils (18%).
3,5% emulsfier is stable for MCT, sunflower oil and paraffin oils. Separate esters are being tested.
Highest viscosity and synergy is obtained by using sunflower oil.
Internal phases till 82% were achieved.

36. 5. Formulations Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
3.6
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
0.5
Radia 7363
Triolein (= Sunflower oil) 18 B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 4
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.8 C
preservative
0.7
Viscosity : mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

37. 5. Formulations W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate 4
Radia 7208
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2
Radia 7732
Isopropyl Palmitate 11
Sweet almond oil
Avocado oil B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 3
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.5 C
preservative
0.7
Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

38. 5. Formulations Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
3,6
Paraffin Oil 15
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
0,5
Radia 7500
Cetyl Palmitate 2 B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 3
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.5 C
preservative
0.7
ZnO 10
Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

39. Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Isoamyl Esters

40. Isoamyl Esters + = Isoamyl Ester Biofermentation Isoamyl Alcohol
Vegetable
Fatty Acids =
Isoamyl Ester
Isoamyl esters are the natural alternative to high
performance dispersing products.

41. Isoamyl Esters
Fully natural : originates from fusel oils coming from the bio -fermentation of sugar beets
Isoamyl alcohol = isobutyl carbinol =isopentyl alcohol
Vegetable fatty acids : C8/C10, C12, C14, C16, C18 ,C16-C18, cocoate, oleate
Oleon isoamyl esters contain only natural building blocks.

42. Low viscosity & Quick absorbing
Radia 7750: Isoamyl Laurate
Very good solvating power
Sunscreen products & UV filters
Ability to disperse pigments
Colour cosmetics and skin care.
Excellent skin compatibility
Baby care and cleansing formulations
Low viscosity & Quick absorbing
Improved spreadability.
Excellent sensorial profile
Silicone like sensorial profile

43. R7750 Sensorial Properties
During rubbing
After rubbing
IPM
Dimethicone
R7750

44. Visual evaluation of wetting properties
 10 gr TiO2 +
C12-C15 A. B.
Castor Oil
IA Laurate
IA Myristate
IA Palmitate
IA Oleate
12 ml 5
13 ml 4
14 ml 2
15 ml 1 3
16 ml
17 ml
18 ml
19 ml
20 ml
21 ml
22 ml
23 ml
24 ml
25 ml
26 ml 1
smooth dispersion 2
Glossy dispersion slighly Granular 3
Granular cream 4
Granular paste 5
Adhesive paste
Amount of oil needed to create a good dispersion with 10 gr of TiO2
Isoamyl esters disperse the same dosage of pigment TiO2 with a small amount of ester.

45. Analytical evaluation of wetting properties
Visually identified as smooth and viscous dispersion
Viscosity measured by increasing amount of TiO2 in 10 gr of oil.
Isoamyl esters provide a steady viscosity with increasing TiO2 concentration. This stability translates into easier handling for end formulations.

46. R7750 Application Info
Imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts of mineral oil or vegetable oils; i.e., “de-oils” mineral oil and “de-greases” vegetable oils.
Is a short chain ester which acts as a superior solubilizer of lipophilic cosmetic raw materials as eg sunscreen agents.
Provides high spreading and quick penetration.
Acts as an anti-tack agent.
Acts as a wetting agent and auxiliary suspending agent for waterinsoluble powdered products.
First choice emollient in natural and conventional cosmetic frame formales

47. Formulation Data Usage level: 4-80%. Often used as primary oil.
Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.
5-20% in both O/W and W/O emulsion creams.
Wet wipes O/W: %
Natural hair care products: 1-5%