1. OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care
J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012

2. A fruitfull collaboration
On 10 specialty products;
Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate
Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate
Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate
Radia 7687; Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Radia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate
Radia 7373; Triisostearin
Radia 7380; Trimethylol Propane Triisostearate
Radia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Radia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

3. WHO is oleon?

4. Core business of Oleon
Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils.
Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.
Biotechnologies
Seeds
Pesticides
Other services for agriculture
Growers
Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds
Crushing
Oils
Food
Renewable energies
Renewable chemicals
Oil cake
Animal health
and breeding
Animal nutrition
Breeders
Transformation and animal productions
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

5. International character of Oleon
Oleon Americas
Oleon Sales Offices
6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang)
Oleon HQ
Oleon Northern Europe
Oleon GmbH
Oleon Southern Europe
Oleon France
Oleon UK
Oleon Asia Pacific
Oleon China

6. Environmental concern Innovation driven
Values of Oleon
Environmental concern
RSPO member
Iso14001 certification
Innovation driven
Investments in innovation centre
Technical involvement
Application research & Product improvement in R&D lab
Quality focus
COSMOS/Ecocert
Kosher/Halal

7. Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria
Oleon is an RSPO member
RSPO
Promoting the Growth And
Use of Sustainable Palm Oil
Oleon is member since 2007
Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria
Among its principles
…Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families.
…No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

8. Our Chemistry.

9. From nature to oleochemistry
Containing
Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

10. From oleochemistry to consumer product
Esterification
Ester
Fatty acid
Alcohol building block
Hydrolyses
Glycerol
Fatty acid

11. A glance into the Radia building blocks Fatty acid – function -COOH
Alcohol-function - OH  + = 
INCI
Polyglycerol
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan
Sorbitan Laurate
Fatty acid – function -COOH
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan trioleate
C8/C10
Lauric acid
Myristic acid
Palmitic acid
Stearic acid
Oleic acid
Isostearic acid
Sorbitan isostearate
Isoamyl
Isoamyl laurate
Isopropyl
Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Isopropyl isostearate
Pentaerythrityl
Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate
Pentaerythrithyl stearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetrastearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate
Propylene glycol
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate
Propylene glycol stearate
Glycerol
caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl laurate (90%)
Glyceryl stearate
Glyceryl oleate …

12. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Characteristics Radia portfolio
Eye catchers
Emollients
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates

13. Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin
Stands for: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance
Established for: Non-ionic emulsifiers
Formula: HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule]
Purpose: Scale to performance of the emulsifier
High HLB = hydophylic type
Low HLB = lipophylic type
FA function
-OH function
Hydrophylic part
Lipophylic part
High HLB
FA function
-OH function
Hydrophylic part
Lipophylic part
Low HLB
Low HLB
Oil (Fat) soluble
Water in oil emulsion
High HLB
Water soluble
Oil in Water emulsion

14. Characteristics: HLB versus performance1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Characteristics
O/W emulsifier
Mixing unlike oils together
Making W/O emulsions
Making self-emulsifying oils
Wetting Powders
Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends
Making detergent solutions
(HLB 13-15)
Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10-18)
Radia
Radiasurf 7755
Radiamuls 2253
Radia 7887 Radiasurf 7758 Radiamuls 2155
Radiasurf 7145 Radiasurf 7141
Radiasurf 7443 Radiasurf 7402 Radiasurf 7125
 Radiamuls 2248 Radiasurf 7447 Radiasurf 7444
Radiasurf 7454
Radiasurf 7473 Radiasurf 7403
Radiasurf 7423
Radiasurf 7404
Radiamuls 2157
Radiasurf 7147
Radiasurf 7137

15. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Characteristics
Radia portfolio
Eye catchers
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates

16. Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect
… softens and smoothes the skin
… results in elastic and lubricated skin
An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology:
Spreading
Absorption
Greasiness
Stickiness
Softness
Smoothness

17. Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry
An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology
Low viscosity  Viscosity = light feel & good spread
Branched structure  Liquid means easy to handle
= Cold processing
 Light feel
Saturated structure  Chemical stability
 No off odour, no off colour
Low molecular weight  light & dry feel
 quick absorption
High polarity (Harkin)  Good spread
Low contact angle  Wetting capacity

18. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers &
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates

19. How commercial is a W/O-emulsion?
Radia 7887: W/O emulsion
How commercial is a W/O-emulsion?
Applications:
Sun Screen milks
Skin protective baby creams
Massage milks
Lotions and creams
For dry and sensitive skin
Hand & feet care
Night creams
Properties:
Skin protection
Long lasting moisturization
Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier
Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients
Reduced preservative concentration

20. How do you benefit of a cold process method?
Radia 7887: cold process
How do you benefit of a cold process method?
COLD PROCESSING
equals cost reduction by means of
…time
No heating time
No cooling time
…energy
No need for melting
…amount
No additional co-emulsifier
Low concentration T
(°C)
+/- 80 20 1 2 3
Homogenize 4 5
Hot Process
Time T
(°C)
Cold Process 1 2 3 5 4 20
Homogenize
Time

21. Radia 7887: its building blocks Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae)
POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
Glycerol
Ricinoleate
Sorbitol
Isostearate
Saponification of a vegetable oil
Rapeseed oil
Extraction & destillation
Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae)
Hydrogenation & filtration
Wheat/Maize
Saponification, neutralization & destillation
Rapeseed oil 21

22. The identity of Radia 7887 Radia 7887
INCI: POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
HLB: 4,2
Performance: Single emulsifier
Liquid W/O emulsifier
Sensorial: provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
Speciality:
EO free - Palm free - PEG free
fit for high and low internal phase
based on natural raw materials
no need for co-emulsifier
functions at low levels (<1%)
COLD Process
Radia 7887

23. Radia 7887: viscosity
How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients?
Increase of water phase %
Using emollients with higher viscosity
Homogenization (sharing force)
Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

24. Stability testing parameters?
Radia 7887: stability
Stability testing parameters?
Test formulation W/O
Oil phase
Oil 10 %, 18% or 30%
Emulsifier 1% or 4%
Water phase
Glycerol 4%
MgSO4.7H2O 0,7%
Preservative q.s.
Water to 100%
Low external phase = 10%
High external phase = 30%
Low surfactant = 1%
High surfactant = 3.5%
Evaluation methods
1) Centrifuge stability
4000rpm)
2) Temperature stability
8 50°C
3 40°C
>4 RT
Freeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT
3) Viscosity stability ( mPas)
Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle
After 1 day
After 3 months
4) Appearance
Visual aspect

25. Radia 7887: stability
What about stability performance?
A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with
…MCT
…paraffin oils up to 18%
A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with
…sunflower oil
…paraffin oils
A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation.
R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

26. Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2
Radia 7887: formulations
Low Cost W/O protective cream HP
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
3.6
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
0.5
Radia 7363
Triolein (= Sunflower oil) 18 B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 4
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.8 C
preservative
0.7 ok
Viscosity : mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

27. W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3
Radia 7887: formulations
W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate 4
Radia 7208
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2
Radia 7732
Isopropyl Palmitate 11
Sweet almond oil
Avocado oil B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 3
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.5 C
preservative
0.7
Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

28. Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1
Radia 7887: formulations
Low Cost Protective baby cream HP
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w A
Radia 7887
Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
3,6
Olive Oil 15
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
0,5
Radia 7500
Cetyl Palmitate 2 B
Glycerin 4810
Glycerin 3
water
Aqua
To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O
0.5 C
preservative
0.7
ZnO 10
Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

29. Radia 7887: the movie

30. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers &
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates

31. The identity of Radia 7750 Radia 7750 INCI: ISOAMYL LAURATE
Performance: High wetting power
Solvating functionality (short chain ester)
Sensorial: Silky feeling
Degreasing power
Excellent spreadability & quick penetration
Anti-tack agent
Speciality: Natural building blocks
Practical Usage
Applications: Body oils & bath oils
Wet wipes
Natural hair care products
O/W & W/O creams
Radia 7750

32. Radia 7750: a green chemical

33. Radia 7750: wetting properties

34. Radia 7750: practical use
Usage level
Often used as primary oil : 4-80%.
Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.
O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5-20%.
Wet wipes O/W: %
Natural hair care: 1-5%

35. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates

36. Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates are saturated:
Chemical stability
No need for antioxidant
Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil.
Isostearic derivates are branched:
Excellent emolliency
Non-greasy afterfeel
Highly substantive lipid film
Soft skinfeel
Glossy appearance

37. Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues):
No crystallization
Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives
Isostearic derivates are liquid:
Cold emulsion method
Practicial use
A solution for heat sensitive products
A solution for challenging formulations

38. Isostearic derivates: Portfolio
INCI
Radia
Isostearyl alcohol
Radianol 1980
Isostearic Acid
Radiacid 908/909
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Radia 7687
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Radia 7181
Triisostearin
Radia 7373
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Radia 7380
Isopropyl Isostearate
Radia 7739

39. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373
INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN
Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments
Solvating functionality
Modifies melting points
Sensorial: Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient
Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties
Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting)
Colour cosmetics 39

40. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739
INCI: ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE
Performance: Light texture emollient
Functions as overall reducer of tackiness
Affective solvent and disperser
Sensorial: High gloss & low occlusive
Fast absorption & good spreadability
Imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM)
Speciality: low amount of residue required
Applications: Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations
Face and eyes make up
Radia 7739

41. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380
INCI: TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE
Performance: Substantive and roch, film forming emollient
Dispersant for solid ingredients
Potential SPF booster
Sensorial: Good Lubricant
Rich Film forming emollient
Shine & plasticizer properties in hair care
Non-tacky feel
Improves skin elasticity
Speciality: Mineral oil replacement
Applications: general skin & hair care
depilatory creams,
colour cosmetics,
sun and baby care,
shaving formulations
Radia 7380

42. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687
INCI: NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIISOSTEARATE
Performance: Silky and good spreading emollient
Viscosity increasing agent
Sensorial: Skin conditioning agent
Silky and rich skin feel
Applications: Sun care
Protective creams
Shaving creams
Moisturizing creams and lotions
Baby care
Make-up
Radia 7687

43. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181
INCI: PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE
Performance: Dispersant activities
Contributes as waterrepellent agent
Pearlescent – bodying agent
Sensorial: High gloss film
Resists to rub off
Good lubrication & reduces drag on application
Substantive and cushion feel.
Speciality: Good alternative to castor oil.
Applications: Sun care
Liquid foundations
Lipsticks
High solid make up
Radia 7181

44. Oleon Head Office
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)
F: +32 (0) E: