1. A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELRY ETHICAL TRADE SYSTEM
RAPAPORT FAIR TRADE JEWELRY CONFERENCE
Presented by: Edward Boehm
ICA Director

2. ICA
568 Members
in 44 Countries

3. ...and ambassadors in 30 countries around the world
Our Locations
Head Office New York
Europe Bureau
Idar-Oberstein, Germany
Asia Bureau Bangkok
...and ambassadors in 30 countries around the world

4. ...promoting coloured gemstones worldwide
Corporate
PROFILE
2009

5. InColor Magazine

6. World Mining Report
World Gemmological Laboratory Directory

7. Website: www.gemstone.org

8. ICA Congress in Panyu, China 2009

9. ICA Congress- Panyu 2009

10. ICA Congress – Panyu
2009

11. ICA and Ethical Trade

12. The current working team:
Andrew Cody ICA Immediate Past President
Jean Claude Michelou ICA Vice President
Edward Boehm ICA Director
Professor Michael Hopkins Geneva University
And just joining the team:
Professor Donald Feaver & PhD Student Royal Melbourne Institute
of Technology

14. The World Bank

15. Suppliers of Materials
Mining
Metals
Gold
Platinum
Silver
Others
Gemstones
Diamond
Coloured
Organic
Suppliers of Materials
Manufacturing
Refining
Jewellery
Suppliers
Laboratories
Treatments of metals/ gemstones
Cutting/ Polishing of Gemstones
Watch Manufacture conditions
Wholesale & Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures and standards.

16. Suppliers of Materials
JEWELRY SUPPLY CHAIN ?
What makes a mining operation Ethical?
Mining
Metals
Gold
Platinum
Silver
Others
Gemstones
Diamond
Colored
Organic
Suppliers of Materials
First Tier
Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners
Labor Issues
Human Rights
Child Labor
Poor Wages
Safety Conditions
Community Benefits
Community Displacement
Treatment Issues
Disclosure
Safety issues-irradiation
Permanency of treatment
Environmental impact
Environmental Issues
Chemical pollution
Landscape scarring
Deforestation
Wildlife
Economic & Socio-Political Issues
Political
Terrorism
Smuggling
Money laundering

17. Over 200 Sovereign States Different Cultures Different Standards
Different Rules

18. Other Problems Associated with Implementing Ethical Trade
Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary according to :
Different Products- Gemstones & Metals
Different Supplier Countries
Different Cultures
Different Economic Structures
Different Labor Standards

19. Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining
Labor Issues
Environmental Issues
Economic & Socio-Political Issues
Treatments
Human rights
Child Labor
Poor Wages
Safety conditions
Displacement of communities
Chemical pollution
Landscape scarring
Deforestation
Wildlife displacement
Political instability
Terrorism
Money laundering
Smuggling
Disclosure
Safety issues

20. Labor Issues Human rights Child Labor Poor Wages Safety conditions
Displacement of communities

21. Environmental Issues Chemical pollution Landscape scarring
Deforestation
Wildlife Displacement

22. Economic & Socio-Political Issues
Political Instability
Terrorism
Money Laundering
Smuggling

23. Large mining concerns are easier to regulate

24. However, there are millions of artisanal miners

25. Responsible Jewelry Council Members
Mining
AngloGold Ashanti
Arslanian Freres NV
Bonas & Co. Ltd
Dalumi Diamonds
Diarough N.V.
Dimexon Diamonds
HRA Investments Ltd
I.Hennig & Co. Ltd
Lazare Kaplan International Inc.
Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2
Rosy Blue N.V.
Rothschild Diamonds Ltd
Sima Diamond NV
Steinmetz
Suashish Diamonds
Trade Associations
The American Gem Society
British Jewellers Association
Jewellers of America
Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America Inc.
National Mining Association
The National Association of Goldsmiths
World Gold Council
Service Industries (inc. financial institutions)
Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO
The Assay Office

26. Responsible Jewelry Council Members cont’d
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale
DN Gems Corp
Gabriel & Co
Jaeger-LeCoultre
J.B. Jewelry
Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC
Libman & Company Ltd
Kristall Inc.
Regal Imports Ltd
Robertso Coin
Stubbs and Co
Gold Refining Hedging or Trading
Argor-Heraeus SA
Metalor Tchnologies SA
PAMP SA
PX Precinox SA
Valcambi SA
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale
AR & AR Jewellery Inc
Aurafin LLC
Baume & Mercier
Boite D’Or Gioielli S.R.L.
Carrera y Carrera
C&J Jewelry
Cendres+M&eacute:taux SA
Christian Bernard
Colormasters Gem Corp
Cristofol Paris

27. Responsible Jewelry Council Members cont’d
Retail
Argos Ltd
Ben Bridge Jeweler
Borsheims
Boucheron
Brown Goldsmiths
Bulgari S.p.A
Cartier
Chanel Horlogerie/Joaillerie
Day’s Jewellery
Element Jewellery
Gomez & Molina Joyeros
Goodmans Jewelers Inc
Hamilton Jewellers
Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd
Harry Winston
H. Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc.
Helzberg Diamonds
Ice cool.co.uk
JCPenney
Jewellery By Varouj Inc
Larter and Sons
Leber Jeweler Inc.
Lux Bond & Green
Marissa D. Harvey
Montblanc
Moet Hennessy – Louis Vuitton
Nicholas James
Piaget
Precious Metals
Reis-Nichols Inc.
Signet Group plc.
Simms II Jewelers
Tiffany & Co.
Transparence S. A.
Van Cleef & Arpels
WhiteFlash.com
Zale Corporation
Current membership is approximately 100 organizations

28. 5 Million people involved
Current RJC membership is approximately 100 members
But there are at least
5 Million people involved
in the jewelry industry worldwide

29. The people who suffer in the producing countries can’t afford to wait …
Let’s work together to make Ethical Trade a reality

30. What is the basis of the ICA proposal?

31. World Jewellery Confederation?
ETHICAL TRADER
RETAILER CAT 3
2009
World Jewellery Confederation

32. Global Reach

33. Advice & input from NGO’s and Ethical Trade initiatives to advise on standards
JETS ADMINISTRATION
JETS operations & management
International & National Associations with approved Code of Ethics (potentially 100 associations)
Wholesale and Retail members receive accreditation
Consumer Confidence
UNDP
World Bank
ARM
CASM
No dirty gold
IRMA
DDI
End Poverty

34. Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work:
ICA
Code of Ethics
Japan Jewellers Association
AGTA
Colored Diamond Association
Code Of Ethics
TGJTA
JAA
Work together with industry organizations that already have established ethical guidelines
Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work:
International Colored Gemstone Association
Thai Gem & Jewellery Traders Assocation
Gemological Institute of America
Gemmological Association of Australia
Jewellers Association of Australia
Japan Jewellery Association
American Gem Trade Association
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain
British Jewellers Association
ETC

35. Ethical Trade Initiatives
No Dirty Gold
Ethical Metalsmiths
Kimberly Process
DDI
ARM
IRMA
CASM
CRJP
MINE _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
PROCESSING _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
WHOLESALE _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
RETAIL _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Most initiatives do not have a solid connection or link with the retailer which would ensure a conduit for ethically certified products from mine to market

36. World Jewellery Confederation
The JET System would create openings for certified products to the consumer
It would also recognise approved product certification of many other initiatives
Examples...
Certified Ethical product
Certified Ethical product
Certified Ethical product
Certified Ethical Product
Recognised by CIBJO JETS program
World Jewellery Confederation
CRJP Retailer
Manufacturer
JETS Retailer
Ethically Aware Consumer

37. World Jewellery Confederation
ETHICAL TRADER
RETAILER 2009
World Jewellery Confederation
ETHICAL TRADER
MINER 2009
World Jewellery Confederation
World Jewellery Confederation
ETHICAL TRADER
MANUFACTURER 2009

38. Benefit the Consumer

39. Benefit the Retailer

40. Benefit the Cutter, Manufacturer, & Wholesaler

41. Benefit the Miner & Local Population