1. Perm & neutralising hair Unit 208
Aim: to enable learners to understand perming Knowledge
Outcomes: Learners will be able to:
1 Identify faults within the perming process and Write their remedies.
2 list consultation and preparation methods.

2. C.O.S.H.H S H U D In a cabinet out of direct sunlight & heat Storing
With gloves –safe mixing area-replace lids
Use plenty of water to flush away
Always follow precisely
Storing
Handling
Disposing
Manufacturers instructions
S H U D

3. P.P.E. Personal Protective Equipment
We want a long careers so you must always wear Gloves apron & hand cream, with every perming service
Is required by law and it is a legislation in industry
Protects us because Chemicals can cause dermatitis and skin irritation

4. Consultation Indemnity form Record card Finished effect Curl size
In pairs discuss why these are important:
A contract between us & the client
For future reference
What the client wants
Tight or loose
Is the cut right
Products to use at home
When to return to the salon
Indemnity form
Record card
Finished effect
Curl size
Cutting
Aftercare
Maintenance
Visual aids
effective body language
During consultation photographs can be used to accurately and consistently describe different looks, please add to your style book
Eye contact, listening, repeating Q&A to confirm outcome

5. Preparation
Are there areas of broken skin or abnormalities on the skin or hair?
Incompatibility test this checks whether chemicals already on the hair are compatible with the perming products to be used. A positive reaction to this test means that the hair cannot be permed, as the hair is likely to break and the scalp burnt.
In pairs use your theory books to find out how this test is carried out?

6. Consultation and preparation
Contra-indications to perming are:
damaged/weak hair
other known allergies
incompatible products on the hair
infectious conditions or infestations
recent or current conditions or medication
allergic reactions to perm lotion or neutraliser
skin sensitivities or disorders (including cuts and sores on the scalp).
Always use a gown towel and plastic cape for client
Apply barrier cream around the hairline, to help prevent the perm lotion irritating the skin.
Do not allow the barrier cream to get on to the hair, as this will cause a barrier between the perm lotion and the hair.
Place a strip of cotton wool around the hairline over the barrier cream to further protect your client’s skin and eyes from dripping perm lotion (this can be slightly dampened with water).

7. Preparing the hair
The hair must be free from all dirt, grease and products, why?
Because they will form barrier which will stop chemicals entering the cortex
We prepare the hair by shampooing with a soap less shampoo to remove silicones, clarifying
Porous hair may require a pre-porosity spray, which is designed to even out the porosity prior to a chemical service, allowing an the perm lotion to evenly penetrate the hair.
Pre-treatment conditioners should be applied to porous hair, before sectioning or winding.
Show preperm lotion

8. Recording your results
Why is this important
Good practice
For future reference
For protection of the client / salon
For legal reasons
Client history/allergies
Other staff/next visit
If the client complains/has a poor treatment
If the client sues

9. Fault finder Under processing
In pairs or small groups complete the fault finder pages
Under processing
The perm lotion has not been given time to develop
Development test not taken properly
The lotion is not strong enough
Remember the lotion needs enough time to break the sulphur bonds
Test more than one rod at intervals during development
Wrong lotion for hair type

10. Fault finder Curl too loose Curl too tight Wrong size rod chosen
Short hair will need to be wound around the rod at least 3 times
The rod used was too small for the length of the hair
The hair becomes un manageable and the condition feels dry

11. Fault finder Over processing
Check development bout half way through
and then every few minutes
Wrong lotion or hair type
Warmth will speed up the development
Over processing
Timing of development not checked carefully
Lotion too strong
Salon too warm

12. Fault finder Frizzy or fish hook ends
The ends of the hair have been buckled because the paper has not been wound first or not put right to the ends of the hair
Roller too small
Perm lotion left on too long

13. The hair is wound unevenly and will result in an uneven curl.

14. The wound rod is fastened with a
twisted rubber. The twist will cause excess pressure on the hair and will lead to hair breakage.

15. The hair is dragged down during wind and will lead to straight roots.
In addition,
the rubber is pressing into the hair leading to excess pressure and hair breakage.

16. The ends of the hair are not encased by the end paper and will lead to
fishhooks.

17. Damaged hair by perming
The hair has literally been fried by heat,
and then burst open
Grossly over-permed hair: repeated perming will produce dry, damaged hair unless very expertly performed
Hair which has been
repeatedly permed

18. Remedies Under processed Over processed Curl too loose Curl too tight
Fish hooks frizzy ends
Re perm if in good condition
Restructurants /treatments /hot oil to relax the curl
Re perm if in good condition
Relax with hot oil /treatments
Trim / condition

19. Perm Hair and neutralising hair 208
Aim: to enable learners to understand perming Knowledge
Outcomes: Learners will be able to:
1 Identify different winding techniques
2 Describe the effects of perm lotion on the structure of the hair.
3 Describe the effects of neutraliser on the structure of the hair

20. The science
Follow link to learnxtra password feb 07 highlights or u2 learn

21. Selecting the lotion Acid lotion is used for
Alkaline lotion is used for
Pre perm lotion used to
Chemically treated, fine or delicate hair
Strong hair with no chemicals on
Even out porosity
1) Chemically treated ) Normal ) Resistant

22. The chemical changes SOFTENING MOULDING
Hydrogen is breaking the sulphur bonds
Taking the shape of the rod
The hydrogen breaks down some of the di-sulphide bonds (approximately 20% of the bonds are broken).
As the di-sulphide bonds are broken each cystine molecule is reduced to form two cysteine molecules.
SOFTENING
MOULDING
When the perm lotion (the reducing agent) is applied to the hair using either the bottle or the sponge it adds hydrogen. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTORS INSTRUCTIONS

23. During the perming process
The softened hair now takes on the shape of the perm rod.
If too many bonds are broken during the processing, the structure of the hair would break up and the hair would be destroyed.
Once processing is complete the hair is rinsed to stop further processing.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING, a development test must take place every five minutes for chemically treated hair, ten minutes for virgin hair
Heat will speed up the processing time.
If the room or client are cold this will slow down the processing time
IN PAIRS USE THEORY BOOK TO FIND OUT HOW TO DO THIS TEST
Page

24. Neutraliser/fixer
Once the ‘S’ is identified the hair should be rinsed immediately to stop further development
Make sure the client is sitting correctly and comfortable at the basin
Gloves must be worn during the rinsing process
Remove the cotton wool
The water should be warm, not hot or cold because the scalp will be sensitive
Rinse the hair thoroughly, following manufacturers instructions
If any rods become loose, rewind them immediate
Blot the hair thoroughly, before applying the neutraliser

25. The science of neutraliser
Following the perming process, the hair is neutralised.
The purpose of the neutraliser is to stabilise the hair structure and fix the hair in its new shape.
The chemical contained in neutraliser is an oxidising action which removes the hydrogen from the two cysteine molecules to form water.
The di-sulphide bonds are reformed in the new position to hold the curl in place.

26. Types of wind Nine section Directional Brick
Only two winds are required for VRQ

27. How to wind a perm curler
Section the hair using a tail comb
Take a sub-section, no wider or deeper then the selected rod.
Place an endpaper over the points of the hair, to help secure the ends. (preventing fish hocks). a.
Hold the hair at a 90° angle from the head.

28. How to wind a perm curler
Wind the rod down to the scalp with even tension.
Place the wound rod onto the base of the section. Secure the rod by fastening the rubber band across the top of the rod, making sure it is not twisted or marking the hair.
Rods come in different sizes determined by the rod colour, the smaller the roller the smaller the curl

29. Nine section wind
As the name indicates, the head is divided into nine sections.
Winding starts through the centre nape section.
The top section is wound straight back off the face and the side and back sections wound straight down.
This technique is methodical and for formal set styles .
Picture on nxt slide

30. 9 Section wind is for a more formal looking curl

31. Directional wind
Directional winding This technique is performed by winding the hair so that it lies in the direction that the style will be worn. Directional wind is good for creating volume and direction to support a particular cut and is most suitable for shorter styles.

32. Brick wind Shows no section marks more casual
Winding usually starts at the front hairline.
This technique is suitable for hair which requires a parting within the look.
An ideal technique for short hair styles.

33. Styling and After care
Initial care , do not wash or wet hair for a few days ( 24rs minimum) as the water can break down the bonds and relax the perm
Tension on the hair should be kept a minimum for a few days (don’t be rough, if brushing or combing the hair).
Do not have any other chemical treatments for one or two weeks.
Identify suitable shampooing and conditioning products for permed hair.

34. Styling and After care
Identify suitable styling and finishing products to help maintain the perm and create the look they require.
Explain and show the client how to use the products.
Let the client touch, feel and use the products, while in the salon, advise client to have regular trims

35. Home study Research 3 different types of lotion
Add all style winds to style book
Practice winding techniques
Do the GH14 quiz on qube
Some Not on qube!!

36. Case study – learning activity
In pairs or small groups complete the following 5 case studies
The following case studies describes a selection of ‘clients’. They all want to have a perm but there may be some reasons why a perm may be unsuitable.
You must identify those who can have a perm and the:
• products • materials • equipment that would be required.
For those clients who cannot have a perm you must identify:
• why a perm would be unsuitable • the outcome if the client failed to listen to the advice that you gave

37. In pairs or small groups complete the following 5 case studies
Case study 1
Candy has long hair that was permed 8 months ago. She tells you that the last perm wouldn’t take and the stylist had to put her under a hood drier for 30 minutes before it took. The client doesn’t want you to cut any more than 3cms (1in) off the length and she wants a firm curl. The manufacturer’s instructions state that you should not put the perm under heat but the client complains that it won’t take if it doesn’t go under a drier.

38. Case study 2
Karen has short, greasy, virgin hair. She wants to have a soft perm, designed just to give some body and to dry the greasiness a little. The hair is in very good condition and the client tells you that she would like it to remain in good condition.

39. Case study 3
Bobbie has heavily highlighted hair. The hair is below shoulder length and is very dry. The highlights have been done at home by her friend using a strong bleach that the friend bought while abroad. The client tells you that each time she combs her hair it seems that a lot of hair comes out in the comb. She also thinks that her hair is getting thinner so she thought that a perm would give it a bit of volume.

40. Case study 4
Debbie has had previous problems with doing home perms. You have advised her to let all of the permed hair grow out then to have a professional perm done. Her hair is below shoulder length with all of the perm on the ends. She wants her hair restyled into quite a short, fashionable style and a perm that will support the style. She also wants to have some subtle tinted lowlights put into her hair in about four weeks time in preparation for her wedding

41. Case study 5
Helen has just returned from a four week holiday in Egypt and Morocco. Her hair is sun bleached and dry from chlorine in the hotel swimming pool. She wants her hair cut but not too short and permed into soft, bouncy curls.