1. Growing Berries in Minnesota
Name
What type are most people interested in?
How many are just starting out?
Small urban lots or bigger areas to grow?
Won’t talk much about different types of strawberries or raspberried, too many types
Won’t talk about pesticides. They change often what you can use as home owner, read the label.
Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

2. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Proper Site Selection
For the plant –
Full sun
Protection from wind
On a slope?
Good soil drainage
What was growing there before?
What is growing around area?
For you, the gardener –
Close to a water source
easy access
Site Selection For plant .. Sunlight, protection from wind exposure, if on slope what exposure does it face? South vs East, top of slope vs bottom of slope
Cold air will move to low areas, creating frost pockets and damaging flowers during the spring blossoming period. A southern exposure will result in an earlier bloom, while a northern exposure will delay flowering (an advantage in an area of late spring frosts).
What was growing there before? The previous crop history of a site also must be considered. To reduce the chance of Verticillium wilt disease, wait three years before planting strawberries in a field where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers,(nightshades) or raspberries were grown previously.
What is growing around area? Sumac or other things that will always be trying to grow into area, close to wild area where weeds are coming in all the time
2. For you (the gardener).. Close to water source, easy access to bring in mulch

3. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Proper Site Preparation
Do a soil test
Obtain proper pH
Add soil nutrients according to test results
Make sure area is weed free
Plant certified disease-free plants
Site Preparation - proper pH, good drainage, soil nutrients, weed free
It may take up to a year in some areas to get the right pH. Soils are hard to change and will tend to go back to what they were

4. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Proper Watering
Avoid overhead watering
Put soaker hose in place before planting under mulch
Water – avoid overhead watering, put in soaker hoses when preparing area

5. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Good Air Circulation
Good air flow decreases the chance of diseases and insects
Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases air flow
Keeping areas weed free increase air flow
air circulation – thru pruning, thinning plants and proper spacing keeps plants dry so they are less prone to diseases and insects

6. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Good Sanitation
Many diseases and insects harbor in plant material and debris
Prune out diseased or injured plants
Remove over ripe fruit as often and quickly as possible
Sanitation – clean out diseased or injured plants, over-ripe fruit
do not compost diseased plant matter

7. The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Mulch
Covers diseases that can overwinter in the soil or debris on the ground
Holds soil moisture
Helps keep soil at a constant temperature
Mulch – covers diseases that overwinter in soil or debris on ground, holds soil moisture and helps keep soil at a constant temperature
For cover in the winter it helps protect plants from extreme cold temperatures and fluctuating temps in the spring. Try to keep plants dormant as long as possible.
Prevents heaving in the soil which can expose roots
Mulch does raise the possibility of slugs
Compost old mulch or turn over into soil in fall and get new mulch

8. Why Blueberries?
UofM breeding started in 1967 with first varieties coming out in 1983 looking for cold-hardy,nigh quality,large fruit
Highbush (nonhardy) + lowbush (native) = half-high blueberries
Nice small compact shrub that are long lived
'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen

9. Beautiful white blossoms in late spring
Glossy green leaves in the summer with hints of red

10. 1. Outstanding red foliage color in the fall

11. Fruit that can be eaten fresh or preserved for later use

12. Soil for Blueberries Soil pH is the most limiting factor
Optimum pH is (have a soil test)
Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be modified by mixing 4-6 inches of acid peat into the upper 6-8 inches of soil
Elemental sulfur can be added to acidify the soil but requires at least 1 yr. for the pH to adjust.
Have a soil test done, oaks growing? Probably somewhat acidic.
pH’s over 7.0 need to acidifies in stages. Talk to local Ext. office for more info.
Sulfur is oxidized by soil bacteria, thereby forming sulfuric acid which is the substance that lowers soil pH
The primary reason pH affects nutrient availability is that plants pick up nutrients which are dissolved in the soil water, and pH affects the degree to which most nutrients will be dissolved in the soil water.
A point which is not usually recognized is that garden fertilizers may affect pH due to the ingredients contained in blended fertilizers. When a or a fertilizer is purchased, it is normally a fertilizer blend that has been diluted by additions of 50% to 75% carrier. The carrier is usually lime, which is just fine if your garden has a pH of 5.5 and needs to have some of the acid neutralized, but it works against you if the soil pH is already 8.4. The additional lime will only serve to maintain the already high soil pH. For this reason, I stay away from diluted low analysis fertilizers and use smaller quantities of higher analysis fertilizers
Yellow foliage is good indicator that pH is too high

13. Planting a Blueberry Bush
Planting too deep or not deep enough may cause root damage
Set plants at the same depth they were in the container for the best results.
Mulch
Blueberry plants possess fine, delicate root systems, so Planting depth is critical,
Wrong planting depth results in poor plant growth and reduced plant longevity
Water light and frequently
mulch to retain moisture and keep roots cool
Water new plants so that the soil does not become too dry.
blueberries need sun

14. Fertilization and Cultivation of Blueberries
Do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches
Mulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet around each bush
For new plants; apply nitrogen as a sidedressing when the second flush of growth starts
For older plants; apply nitrogen in the spring
Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a split nitrogen application; half in the spring and the other half at petal fall
Do not fertilize after July
Avoid excessive fertilizer applications, especially new plants. They are very susceptible to salt injury
But fertilizer applications often necessary
Nitrogen gives blueberries the greatest growth response and increases with age of plant.
Nitrogen fertilizers in ammonium form (ammonium sulfate ((artificial fertilizer)), urea) leave acid residues and are good for pH’s greater than Ammonium nitrate is better for pH less than 4.8
Fertilizers containing nitrogen only in the nitrate form raise pH and should be avoided.
There are other nutrient deficiencies and need to be dealt with a soil test.

15. Pruning Blueberries
Prune off flower buds and weak, spindly growth on new plants for the first 2 yrs after planting
Prune mature plants in late winter (before buds swell) cutting out diseased and dead wood, branches 5 yrs. or older each year
Pruning cuts should be made at ground level or to a low growing lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new braches to develop each year
Thinning for good air circulation

16. Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for Minnesota
Yield potential
Hardiness
Berry size
Flavor
Firmness
Plant size
Season
Chippewa
High
Excellent
Med-large
Sweet
Good
4.5 x 4
Mid
Northblue
Large
Tart
Fair
3 x 4
Polaris**
Med-High
Very good
Med
Sweet, aromatic
Exc
4 x 4
Early
Northland
Mild
St. Cloud**
Med - High
5 x 4
Northcountry
Small
Lowbush - mild
Poor
2.5 x 4
Northsky
Low
Lowbush - sweet
2 x 3
Chippewa – bushy growth good for garden and landscape, best with other cultivar. Storage life is only one week in fridge. Harvest around July 11-15
Northblue –
Polaris – ripens very early, open growth habit, needs other cultivar. Because firm and small fruit scar can last in fridge up to 3 weeks if kept dry. Harvest starts around July 4 near Twin Cities
Northland – from Michigan
St. Cloud – requires other cultivar
Northcountry
Northsky –
Firmness is important for storage life.

17. Harvesting Blueberries
Harvest season is 2-5 weeks
The underside of the berry will turn from pink to blue when fully ripe
Pick only fully ripe blue berries
Pick only when dry and keep handling to a minimum
Cool berries promptly and store at temps between degrees F.
Harvest time depends on weather, crop size and plant vigor
Plants with small crop or healthy will ripen in 2 wks, plants with heavy crop or less vigor will take 3-4 wks.
Berry will turn blue when fully ripe
Berries do not all ripen at the same time even on same cluster
waxy surface that protects berry from molds will wipe off with too much handling

18. Winter Protection
Winter injury can occur at -25 degrees F. if the plant is not protected
Blueberries are susceptible to sunscald injury in late winter
If snow cover is less than 12 inches, other protection is needed
Winter injury occurs on shoot tissue resulting in die back and crop loss
Plants can recover with new shoots, but crop production will be poor summer after winter loss
Winter protection from wind desiccation, sunscald, temp fluctuations in spring
Protect with oak leaves, straw, or snow fence to catch snow. After ground is frozen

19. Pest Management for Blueberries
Blueberries can successfully be grown without pesticides
Good sanitation and air circulation thru proper pruning is most important
The most important thing to avoid pest problems starts with proper site selection and preparation
sanitation – clean up fallen fruit, leaves and twigs. Mulch to keep fungal spores covered.
Weeds can harbor insects
Start with proper site selection and prep to avoid pests

20. Strawberries

21. Strawberries Varieties
Junebearing strawberries produce fruit from early June through late July and are generally overwintered
Junebearing plants set flower buds in the fall of the year prior to fruiting when the day is relatively short, about 12 hours
Strawberries suited for Minnesota are of two major types, Junebearing and day-neutral.
2. The essential difference between Junebearing and day-neutral strawberry cultivars is the day-length conditions under which they initiate flower buds.
3. Winona™ strawberry is a late-season junebearing
4. Mesabi™ strawberry is a mid-season junebearing

22. Strawberries Varieties
Everbearing strawberries produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently during the spring, summer and fall and do not send out many runners.
Day Neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries also produce few runners.
Everbearing and day neutral strawberries are great when space is limited, but the fruits are usually somewhat smaller than June bearers
Day-neutral cultivars can initiate flower buds under any day length—even the long 16 to 17 hour days in midsummer in Minnesota. Flower buds continue to develop as long as temperatures are not too high or too low
The day-neutral strawberry produces fruit from June until the first killing frost, providing the option of growing strawberries as an annual crop.

23. Planting Strawberries
A well-drained loam or sandy loam soil is best to maintain plant vigor and reduce disease problems.
Strawberries require full sunlight
Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with pH
1. Strawberries grow well on many different soil types
2. Test soil fertility and acidity (pH) before planting. Strawberries prefer a slightly acid soil (pH 5.3 to 6.5).
3. The strawberry field should be fairly level with a 2 to 3 percent slope to allow good air circulation and to minimize soil erosion.
4. Plant at correct depth for best results

24. Growing Junebearing Strawberries
The main planting system used for Junebearing cultivars is the matted row
Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart
Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½ feet wide. This system allows for easier weed control, easier harvest, less fruit rot, and fewer foliage diseases than other systems.
1. Junebearing strawberry plants should be encouraged to form runners and not flowers during the first year for a larger plant. Therefore, remove all flower clusters until July 1.
2.The plants are shallow-rooted (most of the root system is in the top three to six inches of soil) and so require large quantities of water. Irrigate immediately after planting and during dry periods while plants are being established. The beds should receive a minimum of one inch of water per week during the growing season. Proper irrigation will improve fruit quality and yields.
Store the berries preferably at 32° F to 35° F and at a 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

25. Growing Day-Neutral Strawberries
Plant day-neutral cultivars in the same way, or on a 6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed provides higher spring soil temperatures and better drainage, allowing faster establishment and earlier cropping.
Photo credit: Dave Hansen

26. Fertilizing Strawberries
Before planting have a soil test done
Fertilize early each spring before the plants produce flowers.
For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread another fertilizer application after they have finished producing fruit for the season. (During restoration is the best)
DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or fruit production as your berries will be softer, of poorer quality, and will not keep well.
The number of leaves a plant has as it goes into winter is directly related to the number of fruit it will produce the next spring
Water in fertilizer
is more forgiving if you accidentally over apply Apply about 1 1/2 pounds of per one hundred square feet of garden space
Keep in mind, however, that strawberry growers tend to overemphasize the importance of fertilizers and underestimate the importance of water. Yields are more frequently reduced from lack of water, poor soil drainage, and poor soil physical properties than from a lack of fertilizer.

27. Renovating June-Bearing Strawberries
After harvest is completed mow off the foliage using a standard lawnmower, taking care not to damage the crowns of the plants
After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows so they are only half their original width
Thru renovating, June-bearing strawberries should be completely replaced every 3-5 years for maximum productivity.
1. Once established, a bed of June-bearing strawberries requires yearly renovation to keep it healthy and productive. Don’t do this late in season. Flower buds for nest season are formed this yr.
2. They are poor competitors against weeds and other strawberries and this is the best time to get weeds out too
3. The center of the row suffers first
4. Mowing helps control leaf disease and stimulates runner production.
5. You can till in one side of the row to the middle to create your new row, then next yr. till in the other side. It takes more room but provides newer more productive plants. Hoeing does not disrupt the natural microbial ecosystem as much as rototilling.

28. Everbearing Strawberries
Runners are normally removed as they appear, especially if the "hill" system is used.
For maximum productivity, replace the planting every three years.
Day-neutral strawberries should also be replaced every 3 years.
Renovation is usually not practiced with everbearing or day-neutral strawberries
2.Some people actually treat them as annuals, eliminating the need for winter protection altogether.
3. While junebearing may last 10yrs or longer, everbearing and day-neutrals need to be replaced about every 3 yrs.
4. Remove flowers from newly planted day-neutral plants for four to six weeks after planting to encourage vegetative growth. When plants have developed five or six expanded leaves, they may be allowed to flower.

29. Strawberries: Covered and Uncovered
Winter mulch protects strawberry buds from freezing and should be left on as late as possible in spring to keep plants from coming out of dormancy and growing too early,
One sign that the cover should be removed immediately is if the strawberry leaves begin to turn yellow. Even then you can leave a light mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs quite early in the season. This provides some protection from cold temperatures.
When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the rows of plants. That way it will be relatively easy to cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
We cover strawberries for two reasons, to protect them against cold air temperatures and to insulate them from fluctuating temperatures
Mulching is necessary in Junebearing varieties to protect flower buds from temperatures below 15° F and to protect crowns from heaving damage
For day-neutral varieties, apply a 1- to 2-inch straw mulch shortly after planting Plastic mulches also may be applied either before or after planting. Black plastic will help warm the soil and encourage growth; in warmer areas, white plastic may be more suitable to avoid high soil temperatures in midsummer.

30. Photo by Plant Disease Clinic
STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD
Gray mold, caused by a fungus, is a common fruit rot on strawberries. The disease is often spread by contact with infected fruit. Berries turn brown and are covered with velvety, gray fungal growth.
Spread by the wind and rain with the Infection point being the fruit
Over winters in plant material and debris. Months of infection: Growing season
Control:Choose a proper planting site and control all weeds. Properly water, fertilize, and mulch plants. Clean up all plant debris and renovate beds yearly
Occurs frequently
Photo by Plant Disease Clinic ,

31. STRAWBERRY LEAF SPOT / SCORCH.
Strawberry leaf spot and leaf scorch are caused by two different fungi, but show similar symptoms on strawberry leaves. Symptoms: Circular to irregular shaped purple leaf spots. Later, the spots may turn tan to gray colored with purple borders.
Overwinters in plant material and debris
Spreads by wind and rain during cool wet weather Choose a proper planting site and control all weeds
Leaf spot and leaf scorch do not usually cause serious damage to the plants. If infection is severe, both diseases could kill leaves, weaken plants, or reduce fruit production. Control of leaf spot and leaf scorch should include the following cultural practices.
mulch plants. Water at the base of plants to avoid splashing water. Clean up all plant debris and renovate beds yearly. Keep rows 18 to 24 inches wide to maintain adequate air circulation.
Fungicides only prevent further damage, they don’t repair damage already done
4. Use disease resistant varieties when available.
5. Choose a proper site with good air circulation and adequate sunlight.
6. Keep row widths from 18 to 24 inches and avoid extremely thick plantings. This will allow better air circulation and reduce moisture on plant surfaces.
7. Keep the site free from weeds.
8. Avoid overhead watering. This will reduce moisture on the leaves and help prevent the spreading of spores to healthy leaves.
9. Remove all infected plant material after harvest
Photo by Chad Behrendt

32. Most Common Insect Pests of Strawberries
Tarnished Plant Bugs
Picnic Beetles
Tarnished plant bugs- winged insects.. As strawberry flower buds appear in spring, the adult females emerge from their overwintering sites in weeds and lay eggs. Nymphs hatch and feed on the flowers and/or the developing seeds, resulting in misshapen fruit at harvest time. Most damage occurs when the fruit is green. Once deformed fruit is noticed, it is too late for control.
Strawberry seeds, which are found on the surface of the fruit, actually trigger fruit development. If seeds are injured, the fruit will be malformed. Tarnished plant bug feeding produces enlarged, hollow, straw brown seeds. These seeds are clustered at the end of the berry. Poor pollination or light frost may also be responsible for malformed fruit. These injuries produce smaller than normal seeds.
To control tarnished plant bugs, remove weeds and debris around the berry patch to reduce potential adult overwintering winter sites. Keep the garden as weed free during the summer as possible.
Check plants at least twice a week before bloom for signs of tarnished plant bugs. An insecticide application is considered necessary when an infestation reaches an average of 1 nymph per plant. An easy way to check for tarnished plant bugs is to hold a white paper plate below the foliage and tap the plant with your hand. Watch for insects that fall onto the plate. Tarnished plant bug nymphs can be distinguished from aphids, a common pest, by speed of movement. Aphids move very slowly and tarnished plant bug nymphs move very quickly. It is not necessary to monitor for tarnished plant bugs after green fruit have formed.
Make one insecticide application just prior to bloom. Avoid spraying when strawberries are in bloom to protect pollinating insects.
Slugs are not insects but are mollusks, approximately ¼ to 2 inches long.
Slugs rasp away at plant tissue with their mouths. Signs of slug damage are small, deep holes in the fruit, usually under the cap and irregular holes in foliage. slugs generally feed at night or during the day when it is cloudy. Slugs are more common during periods of wet weather.
Remove debris from the garden to reduce hiding places and overwintering sites. In some cases, it may be more important to leave mulch in place to help conserve moisture and occasionally to combat weeds. Water garden plants deeply and reduce the frequency of watering. This allows the foliage and soil surface to dry between waterings which helps manage slugs.
Trap slugs by placing boards or newspaper in the garden.
If nonchemical methods are not effective, try metaldehyde bait. Apply the bait to the soil near the strawberries. Do not apply bait to the plants.        
The strawberry root weevil overwinters in soil, or as an adult in plant debris. emerging as adults in May or June; overwintered adults become active in strawberries in May.
Root weevil adults lay eggs in strawberries throughout the summer in the soil. Damage to roots and crowns caused by root weevil larvae can weaken, stunt, or kill strawberry plants. Although adults eat notches from the edges of leaves, their feeding causes no economic loss.
Sanitation is best because picnic beetles are attracted to overripe fruit,
Insecticide control is not recommended because you must wait a specified time between insecticide application and harvest. By the time it is safe to pick strawberries, the picnic beetles have returned to the garden.
Slugs
Strawberry Root
Weevil

33. Tarnished Plant Bug Damage

34. Raspberries

35. Raspberries
The main types which can be grown in the home garden are red, yellow, black, and purple.
Raspberries can be grown successfully in most areas of Minnesota.
Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but canes live for only two summers.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties. During the first year, the new canes grow vegetatively. The canes overwinter and during the second growing season the second year canes produces fruit and then die.
1. New canes are produced each year so fruit production continues year after year.
2. the new cane (primocane, or first year cane)
3. floricane (or second year cane)
4. Black and purple raspberries can be a good choice for gardeners in the southern part of the state, or have limited space in town because the plants spread less aggressively than their red-fruit relatives.

36. Where Should You Plant Raspberries
Grow raspberries in an area that has good air circulation, water drainage and full sunlight.
Protect plants from windy sites as wind can induce excessive drying and cane injury.
Any well-drained soil is satisfactory for growing raspberries. Additional water will be needed on a sandy soil.
Good air movement helps foliage dry faster, thereby reducing disease problems.
2. Standing water will increase the likelihood of disease problems and death of the plants due to a lack of oxygen to the roots.
3. Wind can damage canes in summer and winter
4. Raspberries can be grown in slight shade and still produce but may be less than in full sun.
4. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch

37. Training Raspberries
All raspberries benefit from some type of support system
The simplest trellis system uses single or double wires or twine. Place posts about every 10 to 12 feet. Place the canes between the wires and tie them loosely to the wire. The wires can be tied every 2 feet to prevent spreading.
because canes are susceptible to wind whipping, particularly when the fruit is present. Such a system can be as simple as posts with twine tied between them, or more elaborate with permanent posts and wire.
You'll get fewer scratches and have more fun berry picking if you train raspberry plants to stand up straight.
A permanent trellis to hold the canes upright will aid in picking and pest control
Remember, the rows should to be kept narrow.

38. Pruning Summer-bearing Red and Yellow Raspberries
Cut and dispose of all canes immediately after they bear fruit. (during dry weather)
At this time you should thin out new shoots so only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain per foot of row.
In the spring the fruiting canes should be cut back slightly. Never cut back more than one-fourth (25%) the total height of the cane.
Raspberries grow vigorously and need to be pruned yearly. Pruning practices depend on the type of raspberry grown.
Proper pruning will leave room for more productive new shoots and will reduce potential disease problems. At this time you should thin out new shoots so only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain per foot of row.
Severe heading back will greatly reduce your crop.
In areas where winter injury is common, delay thinning new shoots ( primocanes) until the following spring, however growth will be less because of the competition among canes. Before growth starts in spring, cutting the canes to about 12 inches above the wire is desirable. Never cut more than 25% of the cane since this will begin to adversely effect yield.

39. Pruning Fall-bearing Raspberries
For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base before growth begins in spring.
Fall-bearing raspberries (also called Ever-bearing) are able to initiate flowers during the first year. During the second year, they can produce a summer crop on the same canes
For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries. The canes that produced the fall crop should not be removed as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to the last visible node that had fruit.
Fruit will be produced on new shoots (primocanes) in the fall of the year.
One problem with this type of raspberry in Minnesota is that in areas of the state where the growing season is short, many fruits may be lost to early freezes. Pruning may be adjusted to allow for both a fall and following summer crop.
These cultivars produce fruit at the tips of the new canes
Autumn Bliss' is the best of the red fall-bearing raspberries. 'Fallgold' takes top marks for the yellow fall bearing raspberry

40. Pruning Black and Purple Raspberries
Black and most purple raspberries produce new canes only from the buds at the base of the year old canes. These clumps or "hills" remain in the original planting location.
When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching
After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level
Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches to inches. Select 4 to 5 canes per hill and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
1. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production

41. Blackberries in Minnesota?
Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably year after year in zone 4.
The UofM is working in cooperation with the large blackberry breeding program at the University of Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year cane-fruiting blackberry, which means it fruits on the first year growth.
They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials until they're confident in their results and certain the crowns won't die out.
'MacBlack' may be the best, though 'Jewel' and 'Bristol' should be considered.
One place the U plant breeders might be able to make a difference is in blackberries. They've all heard the lament that we have wild blackberries in the woods yet no hardy cultivars for home gardens.
As long as the crowns survive, it won't matter if canes are winter-injured as the plants will produce fruit. Arkansas is doing the crossing and the U's program is conducting cold hardiness trials.
Mild winters actually delay trials. Plant breeders are generally among the small minority who complain if it doesn't get down to -25 degrees F. at least once during the winter.

42. Stop the Spread of Raspberry Diseases
Cultural practices can limit the spread of diseases
Destroy wild or abandoned brambles near the garden
After harvest, remove and destroy canes that have fruited, are diseased, or are weak
Improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds
1. A limited number of diseases affect raspberries

43. Viruses on Raspberry
Raspberries are susceptible to a number of viruses but are hard to diagnose and can be easily confused with herbicide damage
Consult an expert if you think your plants are infected
If, however, an examination of the plant reveals stunting or yellow, mottled, curled or puckered leaves, then suspect a virus. Raspberries are susceptible to a number of viruses, including raspberry mosaic, raspberry leaf curl and tobacco ringspot virus. Viruses are tricky to diagnose, and may easily be confused with herbicide damage, so consult an expert if you think your plants are infected.
If a virus is the cause, remove all raspberry plants exhibiting symptoms, roots and all. If over half of the plants are affected, remove the entire planting. Because many viruses may remain viable in the soil for years, do not replant in the same place.
When starting a new raspberry planting, always purchase new plants from a reputable source; do not dig up plants from your neighbor’s yard, as such plants may already be infected, even if no symptoms are yet present.
Photo: F. D. McElroy

44. Gooseberries
Elderberries
'Redlake' currant
Photo credit: Dave Hansen

45. METHODS OF PREPARATION
1. What do you do with all your fruit?

46. Jams and Jellies Jams and jellies have a very high sugar content.
The sugar binds with the liquid present making it difficult for microorganisms to grow.
To prevent surface contamination after the product is made and thus possible yeast or mold growth, jams and jellies are either canned, frozen or refrigerated.

47. Canning Jams, Marmalades and Preserves Without Added Pectin
Jams, conserves, and marmalades; made without added pectin require longer cooking and have a slightly different flavor from those with added pectin. They also yield a less finished product.
The product is done when the temperature reaches 220° - 222° F.
The two main methods for preparing jams, conserves, and marmalades are by cooking fruit and sugar (1) with no added pectin and (2) with added pectin.
Jams are made from crushed or ground, whole fruit and usually have a thick consistency due to high pectin content.
3. Marmalade is a jelly with pieces of fruit suspended in it. Citrus peel and juice are frequently the basis of marmalade.
4. Conserves are jams made from a mixture of fruits. They usually contain citrus fruit, nuts, and raisins

48. Canning Jams, Marmalades and Preserves With Added Pectin
Be sure to carefully follow the directions accompanying the pectin product. The order of combining ingredients depends on the type of pectin used.
Successful preparation of pectin-added jams, marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate timing. Begin counting time when the mixture reaches a full rolling boil-one that cannot be stirred down.
There is a third method for preparing jams; it does not require cooking the fruit-this product must be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
1.Pectin is needed to provide thickening or gel formation. All fruits contain some pectin. Apples, crabapples, and citrus peel contain large amounts of pectin. Other fruits like blueberries, strawberries, cherries, or huckleberries contain little pectin
2. Pectin is formed during the ripening of fruit and during the cooking of underripe fruit to extract juice. Fully ripe fruits contain less pectin than partially ripe fruits. For this reason, some jelly recipes specify the use of a portion of underripe fruit.

49. Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer recommended
Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer recommended. An incomplete seal with paraffin and the absence of a heat treatment may result in mold growth and toxin production in the jelly. Persons continuing to use the paraffin, and no water bath method, should be aware of the potential health risk.

50. A research study conducted at the University of Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly for 5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the products. Those tested included ones made with liquid and powdered pectin, as well as traditional no-pectin-added ones. In addition, the heat processing gives a better seal, and destroys mold that may be present on the top surface of the product.

51. Sugar
Sugar helps in gel formation, contributes flavor to the jelly, and at the concentration of 55 percent by weight, serves as a preservative.
Corn syrup or honey can replace part of the sugar in jelly recipes. If too much honey or corn syrup is substituted, the flavor of the fruit may be lost or lessened.
Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet*) cannot be substituted for sugar in recipes that require heating
Do not attempt to reduce the amount of sugar called for in traditional recipes. Reduction in the amount of sugar will interfere with gel formation and result in a product in which yeasts and molds can grow.
Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet*) cannot be substituted for sugar in recipes that require heating because aspartame loses it’s sweetness when heated and will not help with gelling. Saccharin may be used but a slightly bitter aftertaste may be detectable.
Sugar is the major means by which most jams, jellies and preserves are safely preserved. These products are not suitable for a person on a low-sugar diet. However, there are special low-methoxyl pectins and recipes designed to make jams and jellies with no added sugar.
4. Sugar helps canned fruit hold its shape, color, and flavor, but is not needed to prevent spoilage. Fruits also can be packed in hot water or juice. Processing is the same for unsweetened and sweetened fruit.

52. Freezing Fruit
Freezing, when properly done, is the method of food preservation which may potentially preserve the greatest quantity of nutrients
Fruits—Most frozen fruits maintain high quality for 8 to 12 months. Unsweetened fruits lose quality faster than those packed in sugar or sugar syrups.
The faster the fruit is frozen the better
When the water freezes, it expands and the ice crystals cause the cell walls to rupture. Consequently, the texture of the produce, when thawed, will be much softer than it was when raw. This textural difference is especially noticeable in products which are usually consumed raw.
frozen fruits, should be served before they have completely thawed. In the partially thawed state, the effect of freezing on the fruit tissue is less noticeable.
4. The extent of cell wall rupture can be controlled by freezing produce as quickly as possible. In rapid freezing, a large number of small ice crystals are formed. These small ice crystals produce less cell wall rupture than slow freezing which produces only a few large ice crystals. This is why some home freezer manuals recommend that the temperature of the freezer be set at the coldest setting several hours before foods will be placed in the freezer. Some freezer manuals tell the location of the coldest shelves in the freezer and suggest placing unfrozen products on these shelves.
5. The freezing process does not actually destroy the microorganisms which may be present on fruits and vegetables.
6. Use proper storage devices for freezing

53. Drying or Dehydrating Fruit
Drying removes most of the moisture from foods.
Microorganisms cannot grow and enzyme action is slowed down.
Dried foods should be stored in airtight containers to prevent moisture from rehydrating the products and allowing microbial growth.
The oldest method of preserving food known to man
Many different types of dehydrators on market

54. Questions?