1. A History of Fashion
By: Chelene Jordan

2.
Renaissance
Fashion For Fashion’s Sake

3. Renaissance Vocabulary
Farthingale: A thick hoop skirt made out of wood or whale bone. Under the skirt to give it it’s round shape.
Chemise: A straight cloth gown of linen or silk worn under everything else.
Drawers: Undergarment with legs. Covers the lower part of the body.
Pleat: A sewn fold in clothing.
Petticoat: A skirt. Sometimes multiple were worn at once.
Codpeice:a flap or cover for the crotch in men's hose or tight-fitting  breeches, usually matching the costume and often decorated.
Slashing: a decorative slit in a garment showing an underlying fabric.
Ruff: A high standing collar made of linen or lace and pleated many times.
Corset: Same as a bodice.
Bodice: Worn over the Chemise. Usually sleevless. Made of whale bone or wood. Tightly pulled to make one appear thinner.
Zimarra: A cassock with a small cape attached. Also called simar.
Cassock: A long, close-fitting coat, usually worn by clergy or religious people.

4. Renaissance styles and Influences.
Italy is where the renaissance began, and also where major fashion trends in Europe started around Italy had a monopoly on the fabric and silk trade
To be fashionable was very expensive since the clothing had many layers and was made of fine materials.
The lower classes wore black and grays, though dark colors became popular to show off jewelry. Red and purple dye meant nobility.
Flamboyant and rounded shapes.
Feathered hats. Big hats.
Use of lace and frills near the later years.
Highly decorated lacey wrist cuffs near the later years.
Decorative/Fashionable Armor.
Clothing was tight and hard to move around in, and sometimes even breathe in. Highly inconvenient.
Richly adorned.
Large elegant and extravagant ruffs appeared in the late 15th Century, later reappearing in the 17th century.
Accentuated Physique
Silver and gold embroidery or embossment.
Wigs crafted from peasant’s hair
Northern Europe crafted elaborately decorated armor and helmets.
Fur cloaks to ward off fleas.
Some area’s would not allow peasants to possess any silk or nice clothing.
 The Italian influence on fashion ended with the decline of Eastern trade in the course of the 16th century.
Pointed toe shoes until about 1500 where shoes started to have heels and be flat at the toe. Highly decorated and usually uncomfortable.

5. Women’s Renaissance Fashion
Fashionable women shaved their eyebrows and foreheads, making a high hairline.
Veils and pulled back hairstyles.
Horned Headresses.
Long gowns with decorated sleeves.
Low neckline.
Makeup and bleached hair.
Hair decorated with flowers and ribbons.
Jewelry like pearls and metal rings.
Carrying accessories like fans

6. Men’s Renaissance Fashion
Fabric becomes richer and heavier.
New patterns and ways of wearing clothes. 
The Burgundian fashion of wearing hose that developed into stocking trousers over time. Emphasized well toned legs.
Laced doublet and a long extravagant cape, the zimarra.
Hat fashion more important even for men.
Feathers sewn into hats and jackets.
Armor was worn as decoration.
Codpieces emphasized ones manliness. 

7. Elizabthan/Jacobean ~

8. Elizabethan/Jacobean Vocabulary
Venetian: A  tape or braid for supporting the slats of a venetian blind.
V-waist: Bodices came down lower, but made a V-shape emphasizing hips.
French breeches: Tight and ruffled puffs about the thighs.
Garters: An article of clothing for holding up a stocking or sock, usually an elastic band around the leg or an elastic strap hanging from a girdle or other undergarment.

9. Influences and Styles
During this time Spain was gaining a lot of ground in the new world, and was very rich with incoming gold and resources. France and England’s styles were often based off of Spanish ones, and Spanish ones were based off of old Italian ones.
Queen Elizabeth was a big promoter of fashion, and was known as one of the most fashionable women in Europe.
Stiff and rigid, tight.
Ruffs are more common now than they were during the Renaissance.
Heeled shoes and boots.
Heavier fabrics.
As Spain’s short-lived empire died down nearing the 17th Century, France becomes the leader in fashion, with England always one step behind them.
Nobles would need assistance in getting dressed.

10. Women’s Elizabethan Fashion
Women wore large ruffs.
Hair was styled by putting wires in it, giving it a wing shape often times.
Flat-chested appearance

11. Men’s Elizabethan Fashion
Heeled knee-high boots.
Blouses that exposed the chest
Large, pleated, poofed out trunks and tight hose underneath, held up by garters.
Doublets with attachable sleeves.
Small cloaks and coats.

12. Cavalier (Early Baroque)
Cavalier (Early Baroque)

13. Cavalier Vocabulary Frock: A simple gown or dress
Muff: A tubular case for the hands to stay warm in. Made of fur usually.
Jabot: a standing collar with a pleated, ruffled, or lace-trimmed frill down the front.
Van Dyke: What they called the falling collars.

14. Influences and Styles
France is now the leader in the fashion world, Spain no longer dominating much of anything.
Prim and posh with soft yet attractive colors.
Boots with slouchy tops
Long flowing hair
High waistline
Soft looking
Less stiff
Embroidery
Hats with plumes
Falling lace collars
Ribbons and bows
Feminine
This period ended with a move towards more colonial and rich fashions. King Louis XIV of France would be a strong promoter of fashion.
France and Netherlands.

15. Women’s Cavalier Feathers decorating hair.
Ruffles and looser clothing.
Less stiffness and more comfort.
Sensual and soft.

16. Men’s Cavalier
Wide-brimmed dark colored hats with large plume feathers.
Looser sleeves and less constricting collars and trunks.
Thigh-high leather boots that were designed for comfort.

17.
Baroque/Restoration

18. Baroque Vocabulary Manteau: a cloak or mantle.
Décolletage: The neckline of a dress cut low in the front or back and often across the shoulders.
Britches: A variant of Breeches
Periwig: a wig, such as a peruke.

19. Styles and Influences Louis XIV of France Wealthy
Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half.
Long, lean collar line with a low waist for both men and women. “Plunging neckline”
Periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.
Elegance
Poor hygiene
Perfumes

20. Women’s Baroque Fashion
A wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually extended by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the shoulder.
Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new trend.
The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline and dropped shoulder.
In later decades, the overskirt was drawn back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily decorated.

21. Men’s Baroque Fashion Periwigs, really big.
Imposing and vertical look.
Canes and long white socks or stockings
Shoes with buckles
Wide coats and ruffled shirts
Long, embroidered coats

22.
Rococo

23. Rococo Vocabulary Pannier: Overskirt
Brocade: A fabric woven with an elaborate design, especially one having a raised overall pattern.
Mob Cap: A round, bonnet-style women's hat, which was fitted to the head with a series of pleats or gathers.
Tricorne: Having three horns or hornlike projections; three-cornered.
Bombazine: A twill fabric constructed of a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling, often dyed black for mourning wear.

24. Influences and Styles
The Enlightenment glorified women through art and philosophy.
Powdered hair
King Louis influenced the hourglass shape.
Silk brocade shoes with heels
Fullness in sides.
Ribbons, lace, birds, flowers. Feminine and pretty.
Vests, coats, and jabots.
Colonial wig, bag wig.
More free and revealing.
Poufy.
Ended by the French Revolution.

25. Women’s Rococo Fashion
Powdered faces and red rouge on cheeks.
Corset with V-bodice
Sweetheart necklines
Ribbons and lace
Sausage curls
Lighter basket waist undergarment.

26. Men’s Rococo Fashion Tight fitting coat More practical
Lace and decorative buttons
Flat shoes with metal buckles.
Wigs

27. Neoclassical and Revolution

28. Neoclassical Vocabulary
Jacquard: A fabric with an elaborately woven pattern produced on a Jacquard loom.
Seersucker: Striped linen with a pucker
Redingote: A dress or lightweight coat, usually belted, open along the entire front to reveal a dress or petticoat worn underneath it.

29. Influences and Styles
The Industrial Revolution brought new looms and ways of making clothing.
The French Revolution shuts down any advances in fashion in France, the leader falls to England.
Long robes or dresses.
Simplistic.
Children get play-clothes.
White silk
Phrygian Bonnets
Hair gets bigger
Waistcoats and trousers
Ornate military costumes.
Spencer Jackets
Stripe patterns.

30. Women’s Neoclassical Fashion
Cosmetics used to hide bad skin
Bonnets and pulled back hair
Long gowns resembling robes.
Robe a la Francias was a long dress with vibrant pretty colors and ribbons tied into bows down the front.
Robe a la Englais was simply fitted all the way down.

31. Men’s Neoclassical Fashion
Long waistcoats.
Long lacey jabots.
Powdered wigs.
Lacey sleeves make a comeback.
Velvet, Satin, Silk

32.
Directoire and Empire

33. Directoire Vocabulary
Incroyable: Name for the French fop or dandy of the period of the Directory.
Carrick: a kind of knot, used for bending together hawsers or other ropes.

34. Influences and Styles
After the French Revolution when the Directory was instated, followed by Napoleon.
Tophats
Poufy
Shawls
First male fashion plates
Moving towards Romanticism
Led again by France
Interest in the classical lines of Greece

35.
Romantic

36. Romantic Vocabulary
Crinoline: A petticoat of haircloth or other stiff material, worn under a full skirt to keep it belled out.
Zouave Jacket: A short open fronted jacket with long sleeves, similar to that historically worn by Zouaves.

37. Styles and Influences
Emphasis on a small waist, rounded sloping shoulders, and small necks
Hourglass shape for both genders.
Civil War in USA brought about some of the new fashions.

38. Women’s Romantic Fashion
Fashionable women looked like porcelain dolls.
Hair pulled up.
Corsets make a come-back.
Frock coats and Zouave Jackets.
Hoop skirts

39. Men’s Romantic Fashion
Wasp waist.
Clean shaven, sometimes with small mustaches.
Modern evening attire.
Top hats and canes.
Tailcoats.

40. Victorian

41. Victorian Vocabulary
Basque: One of a people of unknown origin inhabiting the western Pyrenees regions in France and Spain.
Bolero: A jacket ending above or at the waistline, with or without collar, lapel, and sleeves, worn open in front.

42. Influences and Styles
Spain’s economy improves a bit, and they jump back into the fashion game.
France and England still lead.
Named after England’s Queen Victoria.
Bowler hats, morning coats
Charles Worth and Levi Strauss
First department store
Sewing machines invented
The start of true couture

43. Women’s Victorian Fashion
Parosols
Large poufy dresses with bright, happy colors.
Fans as an accessory
Hair decorations

44. Men’s Victorian Fashion
Top hats, bowler hats
Canes
Tailcoats
Elaborate cloaks
Cutaway jackets
Fedora
Swallowtail Jackets
Modern Formalwear

45.
Edwardian

46. Influences and Styles Different sports attire.
Named after England’s King Edward
More modern.
Flattened form.
Invention of film

47. Women’s Edwardian Fashion
Swimsuits
Idealized womanhood
Soft and romantic
Long tight skirts
Cute button-up boots

48. Men’s Edwardian Fashion
Tuxedo
Suits
Heeled modern leather shoes
Stovepipe trousers

49. Bibliography http://karenswhimsy.com/renaissance-dresses.shtm