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Guitar setup on your new guitar is an iterative process that will take you approximately an hour. Additional time will be needed for nut and string retainer.

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Presentation on theme: "Guitar setup on your new guitar is an iterative process that will take you approximately an hour. Additional time will be needed for nut and string retainer."— Presentation transcript:

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2 Guitar setup on your new guitar is an iterative process that will take you approximately an hour. Additional time will be needed for nut and string retainer installation * Each manufacturer sets the scale length distance * Gibson 24.75” * Guitarbuilding.org kits / Fender / PRS / Taylor 25.5”

3 1. Install string nut 2. Rough in bridge saddles 3. Install strings 4. Adjust string heights 5. Tune open strings EADbge 6. Check string lengths at 12 th fret (eadbge one octave higher) 7. Repeat steps 4 & 5 as needed

4 * The nut has a burr on the bottom edge, making it wider than 1/8” * Sand the nut thinner to fit the nut slot * Ideal fit = won’t fall out * Clean the nut slot out so it is free of finish and glue

5 * Shims may be needed beneath the nut to raise the nut up if the strings touch the first fret * Evergreen strip styrene.125 wide.

6 * Measure 12.75 from 12 th fret to little e string to start (25.5 from face of nut to face of saddle) * Stagger saddles 1/32” as shown for “rough-in” * D & B about the same distance * G & A about the same distance E A D G B e 25.5” to face of nut

7 * There are several methods to wind strings around tuning machine posts * Simplest is to wrap starting at the top of the post and work down

8 * Unwound strings=approx 5 or 6 winds * Wound strings, less * D = 4, A = 3, E = 2 winds * Leave enough extra string to wind around the post * Pull taught, then back up for the winds * Do not kink the strings

9 * Bar increases “break angle” at nut * Eliminates buzz, side-to-side motion at the nut that results in sitar-like effect * Loosen strings for installation

10 * Standard Tuning big to little… E, A, D, g, b, e

11 * For tuning stability, tug new strings to stretch them. Tug about as much as you could stand to have your hair pulled, just to ouch. * This also causes the windings to slip a little against each other and lock in place. * Repeat tug and retune several times for larger strings.

12 Neck relief is where you have some intentional concave curvature to the neck We do this after tuning open to ensure the neck is experiencing typical forces of string tension It allows strings to vibrate without buzzing against frets

13 * 1 st fret and 17th fret (fret where neck meets body) *.010” gap between strings and 8 th fret Information from http://support.fender.com/manuals/instruments/Fender_Guitars_and_Basses_(1992-1994)_manual.pdf

14 * Use a notched straight edge *.010” -.015” gap between the notched straight edge at fret 8 or 9 * Can be done with or without strings Information from http://support.fender.com/manuals/instruments/Fender_Guitars_and_Basses_(1992-1994)_manual.pdf

15 * As you look from the bridge of the guitar toward the string nut…… * Turn truss rod adjuster CCW to lower the middle of the neck * Turn truss rod adjuster CW to raise the middle of the neck

16 *.020 at the 1 st fret * Shim behind nut if strings too low * File slots deeper if strings too high

17 .080 at the 21 st fret…less on the treble side Set saddles in a 12”R arc Use allen wrench in saddles

18 * Set two E strings, and make the other four too high on purpose. * Once satisfied with the two E strings, lower the other four to just touch the understring radius gauge.

19 * Getting the guitar to play in tune with itself * Should be one octave from open string to 12 th fret

20 * Intonate after tuning open and setting neck relief to ensure the neck is experiencing typical forces of string tension * Adjusting the truss rod requires readjusting the saddles * (overall length is changed) * Detune string before moving saddle!

21 Use Scope software 12 th fret to bridge saddle Sharp = string too short, turn CW to lengthen Flat = string too long, turn CCW to shorten 12.75”

22 * Any time you move the bridge saddle, the open string must be retuned * Then re-check the 12 th fret to see if it is an octave higher, or flat, or sharp. * Repeat

23 * Guitar neck will change shape with seasons * Guitar will “settle in” over the next 3-6 months * Adjustments will be necessary

24 http://www.zeitnitz.de/Christian/scope_en

25 * Tune the guitar, open strings, using SCOPE software * E - 82Hz * A - 110Hz * D - 147Hz * g - 196Hz * b - 247Hz * e - 330 Hz

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27 Choose Frequency Analysis display no peak hold

28 Set Zoom slider to 20 and right-hand scroll all the way to the left to see frequencies in the range of the guitar

29 Set Band pass frequency filter to isolate desired frequencies, otherwise you will see many harmonic overtones! Adjust cut-offs for each string and octave

30 1. Install string nut 2. Rough in bridge saddles 3. Install strings 4. Adjust string heights 5. Tune open strings EADbge 6. Check string lengths at 12 th fret (eadbge one octave higher) 7. Repeat steps 4 & 5 as needed

31 This concludes guitar setup dhunt@swell.k12.in.us


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