1. Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing
By Roy Gordon

2. Dyeing 1
Key Issues
The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.
Build-up properties.
Washfastness.
BUILD-UP
WASH
FASTNESS
1 Depth of shade X 1/ fibre dpf.
Finer fibres need more dye.
2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres.
DYE & AUXILIARY
SELECTION
1 High dye applications needed.
2 Washfastness relates to surface dye. Microfibres have very high surface area.
Problems
Causes
Remedies

3. Dyeing 2 Various factors POTENTIAL CAUSES REMEDIES PROBLEMS
Dye uptake at lower temperatures. J
Commence dyeing at lower start
temperatures.
LEVEL DYEING
Faster dye uptake rate. J
Use slower rate of temperature rise up to
top temperature.
Residues from preparation steps. J
Use of auxiliaries to level and protect
from residues.
Poor penetration of high twist yarns on J
Compatible dye combinations.
high density fabric.
CREASING &
Poor relaxed shrinkage in preparation. J
Control over the preparation process.
CROWS FEET
Rapid temperature rise at critical heating J
Use slower rate of temperature rise up to
and cooling phases.
top temperature. J
Use of anticrease auxiliaries.
LIGHTFASTNESS
High surface area exposed to light. J
Careful selection of Dyes. J
Use of UV absorbers to reduce fading.
Microfibre mixed with conventional J
Dye selection
fibres.
DYE COVERAGE
Flat and textured yarns combined. J
Dyeing process to improve leveling.
Filaments of varying cross section. J
Use of auxiliaries to improve dyeing.
Inadequate preparation leaving spin J
Good quality preparation.
ABRASION
finish, oils, oligomer and WR residues.
MARKS
Incorrect machine type. J
Correct machine type usage. J
Dyeing lubricant to reduce abrasion.

4. Dyeing 3. Process Microfibre Dyeing Process: Takes account of…
Rapid strike and exhaustion on Microfibres.
Greater rate and extent of shrinkage.
Lower temperature exhaustion and shrinkage,
relative to conventional fibres.
Rate of rise depends on the machine
liquor interchange and dye type.
Temp
130
110 90 70 50
90oC
70oC
50oC
130oC x 45’
2o/min
1o/min
3o/min
Conventional
Microfibre
50 oC
Load Auxiliaries and pump.
Load buffer and dyes.
Raise temperature - Rate 1.
Raise temperature - Rate 2.
Hold at Top Temperature.
Cool at Rate 1.
Hot 90oC
Use Rate’s 1 & 2.
RC or 90-95oC.
Rinse
Drop cold, < 55oC.
Tip : Plait down fabric evenly

5. Dyeing 4.1
Auxiliaries 1
Microfibre Dyeing Auxiliaries: Must take account of....
Fibre variations in dpf, cross section, texturising and polymer type.
Variations in dye types, helping to balance strike and migration.
The inevitable carry-over of residues and contamination into the dye bath.
NEARGAL HP-MF Dispersant and levelling agent.
New Levels without retarding, so perfect for micofibres.
Oligomer dispersant, so minimal WR problems.
Proven in yarn package dyeing.
( See later presentation.)
LUBRIFIL LAF Emulsifier, anticrease and compatibiliser.
Emulsifies de dusting agents and residual oils.
Enhances Heat Setting efficiency.
Reduces creasing and abrasion.
A problem solver.

6. Dyeing 4.2
Auxiliaries 2
NAISTAT 1350 Oil scavenger, anticrease, lubricant, finishing agent.
High affinity for polyester allows displacement of
residual oils from polyester.
Powerful lubricity to reduce abrasion and creases.
Durable finish; antistat, soil release, soft and
hydrophilic.
NEARCHEL TMC High Temperature stable sequesterant.
Suitable for preparation and bleaching.
Disaggregates dyes for penetration.
Powerful metal binding, even at high temperatures.
MATEXIL LN-RD High activity levelling agent.
For light or problem shades.
Success over Lyogen DMF, Levenol, Sunsalt LM7.

7. Dyeing 4.3 Auxiliary Solutions Auxiliary Solutions Problems
Rapid dye uptake rate.
(Actually ~ x 4)
Residues from spinning
and preparation.
Poor penetration.
Crease problems.
Varying filament dye uptake.
Auxiliary Solutions
Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL HP-MF New
NEARGAL SD-PE
Emulsifier and Scavenger LUBRIFIL LAF
NAISTAT 1350
Oligomer Dispersant NEARGAL HP-MF New
Penetration aid LUBRIFIL LAF
Dye Dispersant NEARGAL DN
Anticrease agent LUBRIFIL LAF
Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL SD-PE
NEARGAL HP-MF New

8. Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m)
Dyeing 4.4
Auxiliaries 3
Some Recipes
Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds 260 m/m)
Basic
(For blends or 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN – 1 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF g/l
NEARCHEL TMC g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE 1 g/l
Problem shades
(For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN – 1 g/l
NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF g/l
NEARCHEL TMC g/l
Problem fabrics
(For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN – 1 g/l
NAISTAT g/l
NEARCHEL TMC g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE g/l
Problem fabrics and shades
(For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN g/l
NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l
NAISTAT g/l
NEARCHEL TMC g/l

9. Dyeing 5.1
Dyes : General
Microfibre Dye Selection: Must take account of....
Compatibility and suitability for the application.
The wash fastness requirements on medium to heavy shades.
The rapid buildup and levelling problems on fine fibres.
The mixture of fibre type in many microfibres.
Pales shades B class dyes give :…
- the best levelness and coverage.
- compatibility in trichromatic shades.
Medium / Heavy C class dyes give :…
- good levelness and coverage.
- good general compatibility.
- all round fastness properties.
All dye variations or incompatibilities are
exaggerated when dyeing Microfibres.

10. orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.
Dyeing 5.2
Buildup
Colour Build-up “rule of thumb”
: fine filaments dye light, course filaments dye dark.
Fothergills equation.
(in 1944)
C W2
C2 W1
C1 & C2 = % dye applied.
W1 & W2 = DPF of fibrils. =
This equation does not take account of delustering agents, fibre cross section,
orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.

11. Dyeing 5.3
Fastness
Light Fastness “rule of thumb”
: reductions of 0.5 to 1.5 point for Micro vs regular fibre.
The high surface area exposes more dye to UV light, thus reducing light fastness.
Testing : Xenotest vs wool standards.
ISO 105 B02 International
BS B02 British
DIN German
This may restrict dye selection, especially for sportswear.
Trevira Finesse 5
Trevira Micronesse 4-5
Coolmax ??
UV absorbers can be added to the disperse dyebath
for the highest standards.

12. Dyeing 5.4 Fastness Wash Fastness : a constant problem. THE CAUSES ?
High surface area, means a greater amount of surface dye present.
Weight Reduced fibres have oligomer residues that can reduce fastness.
Weight Reduced fibres have a rough surface that can act as a store for oligomer and surface dye.
WR on delusted fibres leave pores, that act as reservoirs of surface dye.
Spandex Microfibre may have silicone residues that reduce fastness.
THE REMEDIES ?
A very effective wash after Weight Reduction is essential.
A very effective high temperature Reduction Clear and wash is essential.
A double Reduction Clear may be required.
Use of wetting, penetrating and dispersing auxiliaries in both WR wash and RC.

13. Reduction Clear NEARGAL DN @ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.
NEARGAL DN
High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye.
Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.
NEARCLEAR VL
Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent.
Proven performance in Reduction Clear
Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.
@ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l
NEARCLEAR VL g/l
(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l

14. Dyeing 5.5 Dyes : The best dyes to use on polyester are :
Those with Identical Exhaustion Rates
Easy clearing dyes : eg
Diester dyes
Azo-Thiophene dyes

15. NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.
Dyeing 6
Conjugates :
With certain types of
conjugate filament….
The compliment or core polymer fibrils may “grin” through
the shade, creating a streaky, speckled and uneven look.
This mainly occurs where :
- the compliment fibril is only shocked (by swelling or physical
cracking) rather than dissolving.
- the complimentary fibril is a major part.
- the conjugate microfibre is a major component of the fabric.
- the nylon component is not structurally covered by polyester.
Regain solidity of shade by overdyeing with acid dyes.
NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.

16. Bodied Finish Softener
Example 1
Light Weight Silk
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Pre Heat Set
Weight Reduce
Dye
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Simple Process
Wash off RC
Pre-steam if possible.
Pad NAISTAT @ 2%
120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”.
Wash and scour with
NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/l
NEARPON KR 1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.
Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/l
90 C, then 95C with
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l
Hot rinse again until neutral.
Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems.
RC as for WR Washing.
Finish by 60% PU
NEARFINISH M88 20 g/l
120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”.
Heat Set improver
Oil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil
Scour system
Dispersing and
Washing system.
Dispersing, Levelling
and Sequestering.
Bodied Finish Softener

17. Soft hydrophIlic, soil release
Example 2
Sports Wear - Spandex
Normal Process
Wash, scour and relax with
NEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l
NEARPON KR 1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Pad NAISTAT @ 2%
120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.
Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE leveling problems.
90 C, then 90 C with
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l
Hot rinse again
Finish by 80oC
NAISTAT % owf
120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Heat Set improver
Oil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil
Scour system
Pre Heat Set
Dispersing and
Washing system.
Dye RC
Dispersing, Levelling
and Sequestering.
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Soft hydrophIlic, soil release
antistatic finish.

18. The Tool Kit The Products The Process The Advantage
NEARFIL FAC Deaeration No foam wetting.
LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch
Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease
NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning
NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps
Dyeing Disaggregator
NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching
Bleach White nylon
NEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner.
NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveller
NAISTAT Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch
Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release
NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic
NEARSOPHT BF100 Finishing Full body cationic.
NEARFINISH M88 Finishing Bodied effect.

19. Thank you