2. Chapter 16 Haircutting

3. Learning Objectives Identify the reference points on the head and understand their role in haircutting. Define lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines. List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. Explain the uses of the various tools of haircutting. Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. (continues)

4. Perform the four basic haircuts. List the multiple ways to section and cut the bang (fringe) area. Discuss and explain three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. Explain a clipper cut. Identify the uses of a trimmer. Learning Objectives (continued)

5. Foundational skills start with being educated in the principles of haircutting and precision haircutting methods. Precision haircutting is about the application of a systematic plan when cutting hair When it is combined with the principles of haircutting, you will have a better understanding of how to approach any haircut. However, first you must know the rules before you break them. You will need to have an understanding of the techniques and tools of cutting. Introduction

7. Understand the Basic Principles of Haircutting Reference points – Parietal ridge Parietal ridge – Occipital boneOccipital bone (continues)

8. Apex Four corners Understand the Basic Principles of Haircutting (continued)

10. Areas of the Head Top Front Sides Crown Nape Back Bang area

11. Lines, Sections, and Angles Lines Types of Straight Lines (continues)

12. Straight Lines –Horizontal –Vertical –Diagonal Lines, Sections, and Angles (continued) (continues) Used with the permission of the authors, Martin Gannon and Richard Thompson, as featured in their book Mahogany: Steps to Cutting, Colouring and Finishing hair. © Martin Gannon and Richard Thompson 1997. © EvaStory/Shutterstock.com © Flora Borsi/Shutterstock.com

13. Sectioning –Horseshoe section –Pivoting section –Profile section –Radial section Lines, Sections, and Angles (continued)

14. Elevation Elevation – angle at which hair is held from head Graduation – layers described in degrees Shrinkage – hair contracts as it dries

15. Cutting Line Cutting line – angle at which fingers are held when cutting

16. Guidelines Stationary guideline – does not move Traveling guideline – moves as haircut progresses

17. Overdirection Comb the hair away from its natural falling position. Used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts.

18. Conduct an Effective Client Consultation for Haircutting What does client want? Does she have time available for maintenance? What is his or her lifestyle? Is classic or trendy preferred?

20. The Face Shape Pull hair back or wrap with towel. Note length and width of face. Note balance of features. Weight and volume. Profiles. Determine parting.

21. Hair Analysis Hairlines and growth patterns Hair density – hairs per square inch Hair texture – diameter of a hair strand Wave pattern – amount of movement in the hair strand

22. Show Proper use of Haircutting Tools Haircutting and texturizing shears Straight razor (continues)

23. Clippers Trimmers Sectioning clips Wide-tooth comb Tail comb Barber comb Styling/cutting comb Show Proper Use of Haircutting Tools (continued)

24. All About Shears Steel –Gauging hardness –Rockwell hardness Cast shears Forged shears

25. Parts of a Shear Cutting edge Pivot Adjustment knob Finger tang Ring-finger hole Thumb hole

26. Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and lubrication Daily tension adjustment and balancing Weekly cleaning and lubrication Disinfecting shears Sharpening shears

27. Left-Handed vs. Right-Handed There is a difference between a right-handed and a left-handed shear. Simply taking a right- handed shear and turning it over does not make it appropriate for a left-handed cutter, because the blades of the shear need to be reversed.

28. Purchasing Shears Know how the shear was manufactured. Ask about the steel quality. Decide on the right blade edge. Decide on the best handle design for you. Be sure of fit. (continues)

29. Hold shears in hand. Swivel thumb shears. Learn about service agreement. Ask about warranty. Analyze cost. Determine how many needed. Purchasing Shears (continued)

30. Fitting the Shear Correctly Fitting ring finger Fitting thumb Relaxing grip Correct finger position and alignment

31. Holding Your Tools Holding shears

32. Holding the Shears and Comb

33. Holding the Razor Method A –Open razor so handle is higher than shank. –Place thumb on thumb grip. –Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. –Place little finger in tang. –Position razor on top of subsection. (continues)

34. Method B –Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. –Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. Holding the Razor (continued)

35. Handling the Comb and Tension Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection.

37. Understand Proper Posture and Body Position Position the client. –Sitting straight –Legs not crossed Center your weight. –Knees slightly bent, not locked –Bend one knee to lean slightly Stand in front of section being cut.

38. Hand Positions for Different Cutting Angles Cutting over fingers Cutting below fingers Cutting palm-to-palm

39. Maintain Safety in Haircutting Palm shears. Do not cut past second knuckle. Take care around ears. Be careful when working with a razor.

40. Blunt haircut Also known as a one-length haircut. Hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line. Cut Hair using Basic Haircutting Techniques Photography by Tom Carson, Hair by Laura Donnelli for Vanis Salon and Day Spa, Scheveville IN. Makeup by Amy Malone and Gretchen Wilson.

41. Graduated Haircut Build up of weight. Caused by cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection. The ends of the hair appear to be stacked. Photography by Tom Carson. Hair by Antonio Morosi, hair stylist for Above and Beyond Salon, Vermillion, Ohio. Laura Hall, Color for Above and Beyond Salon, Vermillion, Ohio. Makeup by Laura Hall.

42. Layered Haircut The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees. Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart. Photography by Tom Carson, Hair by Carmen Cutrona for Carmen Carmen Salon e' Spa, Charlotte, NC

43. Long-Layered Haircut Gives more volume to hairstyles. Can be combined with other basic haircuts. The resulting shape will have shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter. Photography by Tom Carson

44. General Haircutting Tips Partings Lines and sections Crown and neck area Around the ears Tension Head position Moisture (continues)

45. General Haircutting Tips (continued) Guideline Cross check Use the mirror Check both sided Stand in front of your section Curly hair

46. The Blunt Haircut Procedure Precision haircut Head position Elevation Tension

47. Other Blunt Haircuts A-line Longer blunt haircut Blunt haircut on curly hair © iStockphoto/Chris Gramly

48. Graduated Haircut Basic haircut that works with a side or middle part. © iSotckphoto/Nadeika

49. Graduated Haircut Procedure Versatile Haircut Stationary and traveling guide used Hair Texture Neck line Tension

50. Uniform-Layered Haircut Uniform layers © Stock Avalanche/Shutterstock.com

51. Uniform-Layered Haircut Procedure Interior traveling guideline Shape Length Vertical sections reduce weight

52. Long-Layered Haircut Volume Texture and density Traveling or stationary guideline Length

53. Long-Layered Haircut Procedure Length Length in top sections

54. Understand other Cutting Techniques Cutting Curly Hair Shrinks more than straight hair Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb) Naturally “graduates” itself Expands more than straight hair Photography by Tom Carson, Hair by Yellow Strawberry Global Salon, Sarasota, FL.

55. Cutting the Bangs The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies between the two front corners. Be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry. Do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair. The five basic types of fringe.

56. Asymmetric Bang (Fringe) Start by placing an offset triangular section of hair at each corner of the eye. Take a 1/2-inch (1.25 centimeters) subsection at the narrowest part of the offset triangle, elevate at 90 degrees, and cut 2–3 inches (5–7.5 centimeters) (or longer) in length—this will become a stationary guide. Continue taking 1/2-inch (1.25 centimeters) subsections, elevate to 90 degrees, and overdirect to the stationary guide or, for thick hair, overdirect to the previously cut section. Finish by blowdrying with a flat brush or comb. Using your comb for precision and angle, cut to desired length.

57. Side Swept Bang © dinkat/Shutterstock.com

58. Versatile Bang © iStock.com/impulseglamour

59. Short Textured Bang © iStock.com/Ploter

60. Square Bang © Mayer George/Shutterstock.com

61. Razor Cutting Gives a softer appearance than a shear cut. The razor is a great option when working with medium to fine hair textures. When working with a razor, the ends are cut at an angle and the line is not blunt. This produces softer shapes with more visible separation, or a feathered effect, on the ends. Guide above fingers.

62. Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair. Always use a guard. Always use a new blade. Keep hair wet. Hold razor at an angle; never force. Razor Cutting Tips

63. Slide Cutting Used to cut or thin hair. Blends shorter hair to longer. Useful in texturizing. Only on wet hair.

64. Scissor-Over-Comb Hair held in place with comb. Shear tips remove length. Method used to create short tapers. Works best on dry hair. Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide. (continues)

65. Do not hold hair between fingers. Shears and comb move up head together. Strive for continual motion. Scissor-Over-Comb (continued)

66. Texturizing with Shears Point-cutting and notching (continues)

67. Free-hand notching Effilating or slithering Slicing Carving Carving the ends Texturizing with Shears (continued)

68. Texturizing with the Razor Removing weight Free-hand slicing at midshaft

69. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor Remove bulk or weight. –Section as for haircut. –Comb subsection from head. –Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. –Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. Remove weight from ends. (continues)

70. Thinning shears-over-comb Other thinning shears techniques Free-hand slicing with razor Razor-over-comb Razor rotation Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (continued)

72. Basic Haircuts Enhanced with Texturizing Techniques Diagonal forward blunt cut Graduated cut Uniform layered cut © Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com Photography by Tom Carson. Hair by Michelle Azouz for Tangles Salon, Wichita Falls, TX. Photography by Tom Carson. Hair by Vickie Poole. Makeup by Nico for Elon Salon, Marietta, GA.

73. Effectively Use Clippers and Trimmers Electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. Mainly used for cutting shorter haircuts and can be used to create a taper.

74. Tools for Clipper Cutting Clippers Length guard attachments Haircutting shears Thinning shears Combs

75. Clipper-Over-Comb Stand in front of the section. Comb placement. Hold the comb stationary. Stop to cut.

76. Clipper Cutting with Attachments Using clipper guards Quick Easy Creative

77. Men’s Basic Clipper Cut In this cut, the hair is cropped close along the bottom and sides and becomes longer as you travel up the head.

78. Using Trimmers Using trimmers around the ears Using trimmers at the neckline Using tattoo trimmers

79. Trimming Facial Hair Using tool-over-comb method Cutting against comb Using length guard Brow and ear hair

80. Summary and Review A good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous other services. The more familiar you become with basic haircutting and shaping techniques and with haircutting implements, the more solid that foundation will be. If you understand the anatomy of the head, elevations, angles, and degrees, you’ll be able to deliver consistent haircutting results for clients

81. Summary and Review (continued) A client consultation allows you to understand the client’s desires, needs, and lifestyle so you can make appropriate choices and recommendations for the client. The five characteristics of hair play an important role in your ability to create a quality haircut. As with any service, proper disinfection procedures for haircutting services are very important

82. Chapter Review Questions 1.What are reference points and what is their function? 2.What are lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines? 3.What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation? (continues)

83. 4.What are a razor, haircutting shears, styling or cutting comb, and texturizing shears used for? 5.Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body position while cutting hair. 6.Name and describe four basic types of haircuts. Chapter Review Questions (continued) (continues)

84. 7.What is another name for bangs? When should you avoid cutting bangs? Name five basic types of bangs. 8.Name and describe at least three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. Chapter Review Questions (continued) (continues)

85. 9. What is a clipper cut? 10. How is a trimmer used? Chapter Review Questions (continued)