1. Hair removal and introduction to waxing
Approximately 2 hours presentation time
Adjust accordingly to time permitted in your schedule
Brow design
Approximately 1 hour presentation time

2. hair removal Hair structure Growth cycles Types of hair
Supplies needed
Safe practices
Troubleshooting
Briefly discuss what this class will cover:
The structure of hair
The hair growth cycle
Different types of hair
Types of wax and supplies needed
Contraindications
Safe and sanitary practices
Steps to successful waxing
Hands-on experience!
Waxing services profitability
Specialty waxing
Troubleshooting segment
Link: Before we begin with hair removal techniques, let us review the physiology of hair.

3. hair anatomy Made up of protein Two distinct structures
Protective role
Acts as filter
Moisture and heat retention
Regulates balance
Hair – just like the skin – is made up of protein that is produced from the hair follicle. Hair serves a protective role in the skin. On most locations of the body, hair offers a protective covering, which regenerates on a regular basis. In some places, hair serves as a filter (such as in the nose and ears), a moisture and heat retention mechanism (such as the underarms and genital region), and in the middle ear it serves as a mechanism for regulating balance. Each hair follicle (in the hairy parts of the skin) is attached to a muscle, the arrector pili.
Hair has two distinct structures—first, the follicle itself, which resides in the skin, and second, the shaft, which is what is visible above the skin.
The hair follicle is a tube-like segment made up of epidermal cells that extends down into the dermis. The structure contains several layers that all have separate functions. At the base of the follicle is the papilla, which contains capillaries, or tiny blood vessels that nourish the cells. The living part of the hair is the very bottom part surrounding the papilla, called the bulb. The cells of the bulb divide every 23 to 72 hours, remarkably faster than any other cell in the body.
Two sheaths, an inner and outer sheath, surround the follicle. These structures protect and form the growing hair shaft. The inner sheath follows the hair shaft and ends below the opening of a sebaceous (oil) gland, and sometimes an apocrine (scent) gland. The outer sheath continues all the way up to the gland. The arrector pili muscle attaches below the gland to a fibrous layer around the outer sheath. When this muscle contracts, it causes the hair to stand up (goose bumps) which also causes the sebaceous gland to secrete oil.
Reference: Hopkinsmedicine.org
Link: Now that we understand the structure of the hair, let’s discuss the hair growth cycle.

4. hair growth Three stages Three types of hair Affected by many factors
anagen
catagen
telogen
Three types of hair
lanugo
vellus
terminal
Affected by many factors
Hair Growth Cycle
There are 3 main stages of hair growth cycle:
Growing phase (Anagen)
Regression phase (Catagen)
Resting phase (Telogen)
At any given time, approximately 80-90% of hair follicles are in the growing phase. Scalp hair stays in this active phase of growth for two to six years. The hair on the arms, legs, eyelashes, and eyebrows have a very short active growth phase of about 30 to 45 days, explaining why they are so much shorter than scalp hair.
Each strand of hair on the human body is at its own stage of development. 2-3% are in the Catagen phase, which lasts about 2-3 weeks, and 10-15% are in the Telogen phase, which can last up to 3 months. Once the cycle is complete, it restarts and a new strand of hair begins to form. The rate or speed of hair growth is about 0.5 inches per month, or 6 inches per year on average - however as people age their rate of hair growth slows.
The hairs removed during a waxing service will be at various stages of growth - therefore, in the next few days or weeks you may observe visible resurfacing of hair. All hairs removed have to grow back from a similar stage after the follicle has recovered. In order to gain the trust and build a regular clientele, you must be knowledgeable about how the hair growth cycle works. Clients are sure to be disappointed if they feel the hair has grown back too quickly, so it’s worth it to take a few minutes to educate your clients on the process. Discuss with the client the importance of maintaining regular visits to work towards getting all hairs in the same stage of growth. This will allow your clients to stay smoother for longer. This is especially important for the client who doesn’t come in for regular waxing visits, and the client who shaves between services. Because of this, client’s should be scheduled for regular visits every 3-6 weeks (depending on the area and growth cycle).
There are 3 main types of hair:
Lanugo is fine hair that covers nearly the entire body of a fetus. Unless born prematurely, the fetus loses this layer of hair before birth. Lanugo may also return in cases of malnutrition or extreme anorexia nervosa, as the starved body attempts to insulate itself.
Vellus hairs are usually no longer than two millimeters, and their follicles are not associated with sebaceous glands. Their primary function is to protect and aid in the evaporation of perspiration on the body.
Terminal hair is fully developed hair, which is generally longer, coarser, thicker, more deeply rooted and darker than vellus hair. Follicles lie at an angle, may merge, and more than one hair may appear from the follicle. Includes scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes, pubic region, axillae region, beard region.
Reference: DermPathMD
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5. Hair growth will demonstrate various thicknesses and growth patterns across all areas of the body. This occurrence stimulates personal concern among male and female clients. Client’s feelings about their hair problems will vary from annoyance, to distress and embarrassment, or severe anxiety. The therapist must develop a calm and mature outlook to their problems, and face the task of excess hair removal with a positive attitude.
Knowledge of growth patterns, and the characteristics of different hair types will help you determine the most suitable method of hair removal for each client.
Hair removal methods are divided into two categories: temporary and permanent.
Temporary methods will require repeat treatments as the hair continues to grow. This involves the use of depilation (the process of removing hair at or near the surface of the skin) and epilation (the process of removing hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and papilla).
Permanent methods destroy the hair papillae, which prevents regrowth from occurring. This category is further broken down to include semi-permanent methods which gives the client a permanent reduction in hair growth, but does not stop it altogether.
Link: Let’s look at each method more closely.
hair removal methods

6. temporary hair removal
Shaving
Tweezing
Threading
Depilatories
Waxing
Sugaring
Temporary methods of hair removal include:
Shaving - Hair is only removed at skin surface. Contrary to popular belief, shaving does not make the hair grow in thicker. So why does the myth persist? The most obvious answer involves the shape of our hair which naturally has a tapered end. Stubble from shaving creates blunt ends that feel coarser to the touch, but as the hair grows out, the end tapers once again.
Tweezing - sometimes referred to as “plucking”, is also widely used, especially in the brow area. Hair is removed from the root in the direction of hair growth. It allows the therapist to completely define and customize the brow to the client’s facial features and personal preference.
Threading – a cotton thread loops around and grabs the hair to lift it from the follicle. Can be used to remove an entire section of hairs to create a clean line. Can be used anywhere on the body with minimal irritation. Threading is a fast and inexpensive method of hair removal requiring minimal products. Various techniques include: hand and mouth threading, two-handed threading, and a third technique including the neck to hold the thread.
Depilatories – an alkaline chemical preparation applied in a thin coat to the skin. The chemicals break down the keratin in the hairs so they can easily be wiped free from the skin. Depilatories can cause irritation to the skin due to the high concentration of alkaline ingredients, therefore you should always do a patch test prior to use.
Waxing – hard or soft wax is used to remove hairs from below the surface of the skin. Product is usually resin or beeswax based and can be used on all areas of the body and face. Understanding proper waxing techniques is crucial when performing a hair removal service on a client so as not to cause injury to the skin.
Sugaring – similar to waxing, varies in application and removal methods. A solution made from lemon juice, sugar and water - can be used on more sensitive clients as it adheres only to the hair and is kept at a lower temperature than wax. Can remove hair at a shorter length than wax, and is applied with either the hand method or the spatula method. Sugaring requires additional advanced training to master. SUKAR is a company which manufactures sugar and can also provide training.

7. semi- permanent hair removal
LASER– targets the melanin pigment in the hair known as a chromophore
IPL – uses short bursts of a broad spectrum light
Both laser and IPL methods of hair removal are now considered semi-permanent methods of hair reduction. Results will vary greatly from client to client, and depend on the method used and the frequency and number of treatments received. Some clients may see an overall great reduction in hair growth, while others may see very minimal change. As we have already discussed, hormones play an important role in hair growth and may inhibit the effectiveness of such devices.
LASER – an acronym meaning light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation. The various lasers available today all have different components of the skin which they target, known as chromophores. A chromophore is an atom or group whose presence is responsible for the color of a compound. This is the part of a molecule which absorbs or detects the lasers energy. Blood, melanin and water all have specific chromophores which will be attracted by the various wavelengths of a laser, therefore each laser will have different effects on the skin.
IPL – intense pulsed light does not have a specific target therefore it will affect hair growth, pigmentation, and vascular lesions on the skin all at once.
It is extremely important to determine a client’s Fitzpatrick skin type when working with lasers and IPL, as each will respond differently. Be sure to conduct a thorough consultation to determine the appropriate method of treatment with each client to avoid any adverse effects on the skin.
Laws regarding the use of lasers or IPL for the use of hair reduction vary from state to state. Be sure to check with your specific regulatory agency for guidelines on usage as the use of many advanced machines require direct supervision under a physician. Many manufacturers of the equipment will offer training on how to use their specific devices, though it is strongly recommended you receive specialized training before attempting to perform an advanced service such as photo-epilation so as not to cause your client injury.
Link: Since a laser or IPL requires a chromophore like melanin to be successful – gray, blonde, or red hair are not good candidates for these methods. Electrolysis would be a great option.

8. permanent hair removal
Electrolysis is a process that destroys the cells responsible for hair growth. It is the only FDA approved method of permanent hair removal
3 types of machines: galvanic, thermolysis and blend, or dual machine
Electrolysis requires advanced training to become proficient in the various methods of use. Many states have specific licensing requirements regarding electrolysis.
Galvanic – a direct current induces a chemical reaction in the follicle. The electrical charge acts on salts within the skin and produces sodium hydroxide along with hydrogen and chlorine gas which decomposes the papilla
Thermolysis – utilizes an alternating current to create heat in the follicle for short intervals of time, thereby destroying the papilla
Blend method is a combination of galvanic and thermolysis
Sessions may be from 15 min to an hour, and cost $50 to $150 per session
Link: Let’s discuss one of the most widely used temporary method of hair removal in salons and spas.

9. intro to waxing Dates back to ancient cultures
Hair removal services are on the rise in salons and spas
Today’s client is looking for a clean, efficient and relatively pain free service
Complete consultation must be given at every visit
Open with a discussion, ask the students:
How many students regularly receive hair removal services?
What is the preferred method and why?
Has anyone ever had a bad experience? Please share.
Optional to have the students write their answers on the board to refer to at the end of the lesson.
Briefly review history and culture of hair removal. This is re-cap from text book. Stress the fashion trends of this century, not just clothing, but the image that the 21st century evokes… get students to participate. A great conversation is to discuss the evolution of the brow or bikini shape through out the years. Hair removal has been around for centuries. Techniques included the use of abrasive materials such as pumice stones and seashells, and a crude chemical mixture used to remove unwanted hair. So as you can see, the business of hair removal has come a long way! In order to be expert in this service, you must be aware of all of the factors that affect hair removal.
Undergraduate Instructor: Be clear on the school’s policies. The safety of the client and the well being of the student are important issues – therefore we must adhere to strict sanitation and safety measures.
Link: Let’s look at what waxing means to you as the professional therapist.

10. do the math!
If 3 clients per day book an appointment for a bikini line wax at $25:
3 per $25 = $75
$75 x 5 working days = $375
$375 x 4 weeks = $1,500
$1500 x 12 months= $18,000 per year!
One of the great things about waxing is its profitability. Once you are skilled at waxing, the total service time is minimal and your ability to make a profit increases. Waxing is a great service as it is seen as more of a necessity, not considered a luxury or pampering. So it’s easy to build your clientele through waxing services, as they will need to rebook with you every 4-6 weeks. It’s also a great way to boost revenue and increase your “ticket total” by adding on a lip or brow wax to any face treatment. This increases your commission = increases your tip!
Discuss concept of “wax” bars, or wax centers that only do hair removal services. Some therapists have gone on to create a booming business on just one aspect of hair removal…you could be next!
Here are examples of pricing of waxing services from a National specialty waxing center:
Source: European Wax Center
Area Price Time
Full Leg $60 – – 45 mins
Leg (lower) $30 – – 20 mins
Leg (upper) $35 – – 30 mins
Bikini line $ – 15 mins
Full Bikini $ – 30 mins
Arms (half) $30 – – 20 mins
Arms (full) $35 – – 35 mins
Under Arms $ – 15 mins
Lip $ – mins
Eyebrows $15 – – 15 mins
Link: So what do we need to get started?

11. Undergraduate Instructor: highlight the tools needed to get started with waxing as pertaining to your specific learning center. It’s a good idea to take the students on a tour of your facility so they know where to locate all goods. A recommended workshop for this week would be instructing the students on how to cut the pellon/muslin to the appropriate length for each service.
List of recommended supplies to get started:
Wax heater: single, double or triple heater
Wax: honey, cream or hard wax
Hand sanitizer, gloves
Cotton rounds
Tweezers
Small scissors (for trimming hair) and large Scissors (cutting pellon / muslin)
Small container with sanitizing solution– place tweezers / small scissors / disposable eyebrow brush in solution
Protective cover for treatment bed
Roll of table paper for each client
Disposable panties (optional)
Wooden spatulas
Large: for bikini and body waxing
Small: for facial waxing
Extra small: brow and lip
Pre cut wax strips (body and face / muslin or pellon) you may purchase these already pre-cut, or cut them yourself from a roll
2-3 in. long, ½ in. wide: brow and lip
3-5 in. long: bikini/under arm
6-8 in. long: leg (if wax strip is too long, tension is lost on removal) a good rule of thumb for length is about the length of the scissors used to cut the strips
Antibacterial cleansing solution, corn starch powder for prep
PreCleanse for removal of stubborn wax
Soothing serum / complex / toner for post treatment
Equipment cleaner (goo-gone)
Optional: aluminum foil to cover work station
Link: We must also decide which wax is best for the job.
your supplies

12. how to choose? Three determining factors:
area to be waxed
strength of wax
sensitivity level of client
Strip wax – classic honey, resin, or cream
Strip-less wax – hard wax
Along with a proper consultation, your choice of wax is also important. You may have or want a line-up of waxes all heated up and ready to use during the same service, as it’s common for clients to book more than one waxing service for the same appointment. Each wax is chosen for a particular reason, such as hair consistency, sensitivity level of the client, or the delicate nature of the skin in a particular area of the body.
When deciding on which type of wax to use, there are three factors to consider:
Area – face or small areas vs. body or larger areas
It is best to use strip wax for larger areas such as the legs, arms, or back for ease and speed of removal.
Strength – consistency, ease of application and removal
Is the hair growing in many different directions or is the growth dense in areas? Hard wax may be your best choice because it tends to be more forgiving than strip wax. For very coarse hair, it is best to use hard wax as it will grip the hair better. On the opposite end, if you are trying to remove very fine or vellus hair – strip wax will coat the hair easily and evenly to allow for complete removal.
Sensitivity level – check client’s level of heat tolerance, contraindications, etc.
Sensitivity also correlates to the area of the body you will be waxing. For example, you would want to use a hard wax on a Brazilian since the hair is much thicker and the growth can be denser. Hard wax will grip the hair better and be less irritating to delicate skin.
Types of Wax
Wax can vary in color, textures, formulas and fragrance depending on the manufacturer.
Some examples of professional wax brands include:
Amber, GiGi, Cirepil, Satin Smooth, NuFree, Depileve, Epillyss. Options include wax beads and/or pre-filled canisters.
Strip waxing (soft wax) is accomplished by spreading a wax thinly over the skin in the direction of hair growth. A cloth (muslin) or paper (pellon) strip is applied and pressed firmly, adhering the strip to the wax and the wax to the skin. The strip is then quickly pulled against the direction of hair growth, as parallel as possible to the skin to avoid trauma (i.e., bruising, broken capillaries, ingrown hairs caused by hair follicle trauma and lifting of skin). This removes the wax along with the hair. Here’s some examples:
Classic Honey / Resin Wax – Often pine resin based, it spreads thinly and evenly and is considered best for large areas of the body
Cream Wax – tends to be gentler on the skin and preferred for sensitive skin. Contains soothing agents such as Azulene and Tea Tree Oil. Works well on facial areas (lip and chin)
Strip-less wax (as opposed to strip wax), also referred to as hard wax, is especially made for removing thick, coarse hair. Strip-less wax is used at a much lower temperature than soft or strip wax, and does not adhere to the skin as much as strip wax does, thus making it a good option for sensitive skin. Since the hard wax does not require a muslin or pellon strip to remove it, it's easier to see where the wax was placed and how it will come off making it a great choice for Brazilian waxing services. It hardens on the skin, shrink wraps the hair and is pulled off with the fingers, using the help of a special tab or another hard wax strip that has been removed from the body.
Link: Let’s go over some key points that will lead to a successful waxing service and a satisfied client.

13. keys to success Consultation Safety practices Parameters for services
Draping and positioning your client
Troubleshooting
Pre and post care tips
The first and most important step once our client has arrived is the consultation. This will help determine if they have any contraindications or special concerns that might alter or prevent the client from receiving the hair removal procedure. Client should always sign and date the form.
The following factors are known to make those who are waxed more prone to “skin lifting,” where the top layer of skin is torn away during waxing treatment:
Severe varicose leg veins (do not wax over these areas)
Psoriasis, eczema, or other chronic skin diseases (do not wax over these areas)
History of fever blisters or cold sores (active sore- service must be rescheduled, waxing can also trigger a flare-up)
Recent sunburn, Rosacea or very sensitive skin (do not wax over these areas)
Pustules and papules (do not wax over these areas)
Taking prednisone or steroids – may cause reaction on the skin
Hairy moles, warts, lesions, skin tags, etc. (do not wax over these areas)
Taking blood-thinning medications
Diabetes (poor wound healing, neuropathy – loss of sensation)
Taking drugs for autoimmune diseases, including lupus
Recent cosmetic or reconstructive surgery (recommended to wait at least 3-6 months for skin to fully heal)
Recent surgical peel, laser skin treatment, microdermabrasion or chemical peel using glycolic, alpha hydroxy, salicylic acid, or other acid-based products
Any topical or oral medications that exfoliate the skin or prescribed for acne:
Topical: Retin-A, Adapalene, Differin, Epiduo Gel (Differin and BPO), Ziana Gel (Tretinoin and Clindamycin), Tretinoin, Atralin, Avita, Refissa, Renova, and Retin-A Micro. Ensure the client has stopped their medication for at least 2-4 weeks prior to waxing on those areas where they applied their topical mediation (it may be up to 3 months depending on how long the client was on the medication and how sensitive their skin is)
Oral medication: Isotretinoin (often marketed as Accutane, Claravis, Sotret or Amnesteem). As a guideline we always recommend waiting at least 6 months prior to waxing the client anywhere on their body.
OTC Retinol products should be discontinued 48 to 72 hours prior
OTC cold medications, antihistamines that may sensitize skin or cause dehydration. Even if a client has a cold and has wiped their nose area extensively, you could get skin lifting on the upper lip
Check for product allergies prior to service
Low pain tolerance (verbally add to list)

14. safe and sanitary practices
Follow all health and safety regulations
Sanitize non-disposable implements properly
Keep wax stations clean
Maintain a professional environment
No double dipping!
To ensure safe and sanitary practice, you must always follow all health and safety regulations guided by your State Regulations—these may vary from state to state.
Paper is placed down for body waxing: Table paper is most often used for waxing because any drips can be thrown away. It also shows the client that where they are laying is clean.
Wear gloves: Any type of hair removal can draw some spotting of blood, even if it's a tiny amount. And skin is much more vulnerable to infection right after waxing. Gloves help protect both the client and you. If you're providing a Brazilian wax and you ask the client to help in holding their skin, then you should provide them gloves too.
Don’t double dip! Once a stick (applicator) has been placed into the wax and touches your client’s skin, it should be thrown away. The stick should never be put back into a pot of wax because it could contaminate the product, and potentially infect clients.
Sanitize all implements that aren’t disposable: There are items that don't have to be thrown away but need to be sanitized after use, like metal tweezers, by being washed and soaked in a strong solution such as Barbicide.
Keep wax pots clean and tidy: Waxing can be messy so use a product that cleans wax off pots.
Maintain a professional environment: Dusty shelves and dirty trash cans send out less than hygienic messages to clients. Clean the room thoroughly in between appointments. There should be no trace of the previous appointment, i.e.: used wax strips or applicators in open trash receptacles. Be sure to clean up any stray wax that may have made its way onto the floor.

15. parameters Open discussion between therapist and client
Ensures client is booked for appropriate service
Increases client satisfaction and retention
It is also important to discuss the parameters of the service with the client prior to beginning treatment. This is an ideal time to discuss the client’s history of hair removal and aftercare, in addition to educating your client on regrowth, rebooking intervals and ensuring client is booked in for the appropriate service. When discussing service options, be clear about which areas of the body you will be removing hair from according to the service booked. This helps to ensure client satisfaction making sure they are not expecting removal of hairs not included within the service they are booked for. If client has a thorough understanding of what to expect and how to properly maintain their skin, it ensures client satisfaction and will help you in retaining your clients when explaining how far apart they should plan to rebook.
Example:
“I have you booked in for a full leg wax today is that correct? A full leg wax includes the entire leg about a 4 fingers width (show them with your hand placed on the skin) outside of the bikini line, as well as the toes if you would like.” Upon completion of service be sure to recommend when you would like to see the client again for the service, typically the time ranges from 3-6 weeks depending on the client’s hair growth.
If the client is under the impression that a full leg wax includes hair within the bikini line, politely explain it is a separate service and offer the additional service/time as long as the day’s schedule permits it. This is much more preferable of a situation than having a client unhappy with the service upon completion and not having the ability to offer an additional service due to time constraints.
For the clients who shave in between waxing appointments, they may have quite a few very short hairs coming through at the surface of the skin. Be sure to point this out and explain that waxing will not pick up hairs of this length – you will do your best to tweeze as much as possible but you may not be able to remove all hairs due to time restraints of the service which they are booked for.
Parameters for services will vary by location and according to your spa protocols.

16. client considerations
Help client feel comfortable
Maintain modesty
Guide client on what to expect
Prior to beginning any waxing service, it is important to put your client at ease. We can do this by explaining how we would like them to change and what position to take on the treatment bed. For example: if you are performing an underarm and a leg wax, ask the client to disrobe top and bottom, leaving underwear on and placing robe around them like a towel underneath the arms. This helps prevent any misunderstanding of what items of clothing they need to remove and what they can leave on. Another example: if a client is booked in for a bikini wax, ask the client to remove their bottoms with the option of removing their underwear. You may offer disposable underwear if they are available. This leaves it up to the client on how comfortable they are with removing their clothing. If they choose to leave their underwear on for a bikini wax, be sure to tuck a towel or paper-towel into and over the underwear line to avoid getting wax on them.
Let the client know how you would like them to position themselves on the bed after changing… face up/down, which side of the bed you would like their head to be on, etc. this avoids any confusion on the client’s part.
As you are moving through the service, be sure to go section by section in a methodical manner. It is best to have an “action plan” before jumping into performing the service. What area will I start applying the wax to? Will I be removing from left to right, top to bottom etc.? Having the answers to these questions mapped out prior to beginning will make the service move seamlessly and smoothly and help to ensure no area is missed. You also want to know where you are going with the wax prior to picking it up with the spatula so as not to drip any on the floor or linens, and you don’t want to move through the service haphazardly and appear unorganized or inefficient. This will show that you are confident and professional to the client and help to put them at ease that you know what you are doing.
Also remember that ergonomics plays an important role on the speed of a service. If your treatment bed is at the right height and your wax trolley is positioned correctly, you can avoid moving around the room too much and you will be able to finish in a timely manner without adding any strain on your body or back.

17. what should I do if…?
During a waxing service, we are removing multiple hairs in one area from the root at the same time. This can cause micro-trauma to the skin even when performed properly and according to all contraindications of service. Let’s take a look at some of the common skin reactions you may come across as a skin therapist while performing a waxing service on a client.

18. Redness and irritation Superficial bumps Folliculitis
Histamine response
Bruising
Lifted skin
Spotting
Redness and irritation
Superficial bumps
Folliculitis
Even if you take every precaution, sometimes things can and do happen in the treatment room, and it’s best to know how to handle the situation before it happens.
Histamine response – this is the body’s natural response to an irritant, and may be more pronounced in your sensitive skin clients due to their higher levels of histamine. It appears as tiny red spots or bumps at each follicle that has been removed. It can begin to surface during the waxing service or after, and usually coincides with an itchy feeling to the skin which may last up to a few hours. Very small amounts of swelling at each follicle point may also be visible. Watch for an increase in swelling, or welt like patches appearing on the skin - this may indicate an allergic reaction and it is recommended that you stop the service and refer them to a doctor for treatment.
Bruising – this is common in areas with thinner, more delicate skin and typically is due to improper technique - if the skin is not held taut during the removal process, or you are trying to pull it over a curve. You can continue with the service, just be sure to avoid going over the bruised areas and discuss after care with client.
Lifted skin – areas of red or pink with a shiny appearance and a jagged edge. Usually due to improper technique such as not holding the skin taut enough or a pull up and out rather than parallel, or when the wax application is too thick. May also be caused by a contraindication to service such as medication, recent resurfacing, antibiotics, hormones, etc. It is best to discuss possible reasons for lifting with the client prior to completing service. Explain to client what is happening on the skin and they may experience slight pigmentation of those areas upon healing of the skin. Client may wish to reschedule.
Spotting – common is areas of dense growth such as the underarms or bikini/Brazilian. May appear as small stippling of blood but should not be confused with active bleeding. These small spots of blood come to the surface when you break contact with the papilla. You can continue with service as long as the client is not actively bleeding and you are wearing gloves. Apply pressure to the area to determine if it is actively bleeding. Put on gloves if you were not wearing them. Dispose of any disposables that come into contact with blood following the double bag procedure, disinfect any implements and work station according to state guidelines.
It is common to have some minor discomfort after a waxing service, especially if your client is new to waxing. Let’s discuss some of the most common concerns when it comes to caring for their skin in the days following their visit with you:
Redness and irritation – it is normal for some clients to have minor redness and slight irritation in the areas in which they were waxed. This should subside within a few hours and is different for every client. Let them know what to expect, and advise them against taking a hot bath, exfoliating, excessive sweating, or going out into the sun for prolonged amount of time within hours after a waxing appointment. Recommend a soothing spray or lotion they can apply to area in order to minimize discomfort. If the irritation and redness seem to be increasing rather than subsiding urge them to call their PCP as they may be experiencing an allergic reaction to the wax or a product that was used during the service.
Superficial bumps – the hair in the follicle acts as a wick for the sebum to travel onto the surface of the skin. When we remove the hair some of the oil may become trapped in addition to any minor swelling that may be present due to micro-trauma caused to the skin. This creates small bumps similar to a micro-comedone which is just a build up of oil within the follicle. Advise your client to keep area clean and to lightly exfoliate the area after 48 hours to help keep the follicle clear.
Folliculitis – this is very common in clients with naturally curly hair. When we remove the hair from the follicle it can get stuck beneath the surface of the skin as it regrows. Inform client they need to be diligent about exfoliating the area, preferably with a product containing salicylic acid as this will also aid in bringing down inflammation and acting as an antiseptic on the skin. If a client is prone to ingrown hairs and they do not properly maintain the skin after waxing services, they can develop folliculitis which is an infection within the follicle itself and may need to be treated with antibiotics depending on severity.
Sometimes your client needs a little help in the way of product recommendations to prep and care for their newly smooth selves. Some tried and trusted brands are:
Tend skin
PFB vanish
Relax n wax

19. waxing tips and tricks
The wax breaks off in pieces…why did this happen?
The hair isn’t being removed…why?
Why is the strip tearing when I remove it?
The wax is sticking to the skin, but not the strip… what do I do?
I accidentally got wax in a “no- no” zone…help!
Let’s go over some common waxing issues and how to troubleshoot them:
The wax breaks off in pieces when I try to remove it, why did this happen?
This will happen when the wax cools down too much on your skin. Try warming the strip by rubbing your hand over it, then try removing again.
No hair is being removed, what is going wrong?
Ensure the skin is clean and free from sweat, oils and moisturizers so the wax can adhere to the hairs. Hair might be too short for the wax to grab, try waiting a few days to let your hairs grow a bit longer. Hair needs to be at least ¼ inch in length for best results.
Why does the wax strip tear when removing?
It could be due to a bad quality wax strip or the skin is too cold. Be sure that the room temperature remains warm.
When removing, the wax stayed on the skin rather than on the strip.
The wax might be too cool or too thick, or excess oils were left on the skin. Try warming the strip by rubbing your fingers or hand over the top and if this doesn’t work, apply warm wax directly to strip and apply to wax. This should do the trick!
What do I do if I accidentally get the wax in a place where I do not want to remove hair?
Use tweezers to gently remove stray hairs from wax strip prior to removal. Also can use a gentle oil based product to dissolve the wax from the skin.
*Small amount of PreCleanse on gauze does the trick*

20. considerations Build a rapport with clients
Practice to perfect the technique
Finish in a timely and efficient manner
Prescribe home care
Re-book the client
Becoming proficient in waxing takes time and lots of practice. To become successful at waxing isn’t just about technique however…we must also learn how to discuss timing of appointments with clients, when and for what services they should be re-booking, and proper home care customized to each client’s individual needs.

21. let’s review!
Add any questions you feel your students need to ensure they understand the techniques.
What are the two categories of hair removal called?
Epilation and depilation
What form(s) of hair removal is/are considered permanent?
Electrolysis is the only form of hair removal considered to be permanent
What are the 3 stages of hair growth?
Anagen, catagen, telogen
Name the 3 types of wax available
Classic, cream, hard
Name 2 contraindications for hair removal
In which direction do we remove hair when tweezing?
Direction of hair growth

22. Open the discussion by asking students about their own experiences in having their brows waxed, tweezed, threaded, etc.
Brows have long been considered the focal point of the face. Depending on the shape, they have the ability to make someone appear younger and the face more lifted…or they could pull the face down and give a droopy, sullen look to a person. Today we will focus on how to determine the correct brow shape for a client’s face, and learn techniques on how to help them achieve the look they want.
Eyebrows are considered the most important feature of the face
They act as a frame for the face, adding balance and accent to the eye
They depict a full range of emotions
Correctly shaping the brow can add a more youthful, balanced and natural appearance
brow design

23. creating the perfect brow
Evolving brow trends
Brow consultation and assessment
Face shapes
Facial zones
Discuss with students the various brow shapes which are currently in the spotlight. What is on trend and what is no longer in fashion?
The ever evolving brow has become a growing trend that is here to stay. This emerging corner of the industry is consistently creating ways in which to alter the brows we were born with. Clients will continue to modify their brows and need the guidance of a professional to get the look they see in the media. Today we will discuss the various techniques available to you as a therapist in order to give your clients the brows they crave…and the ability to change them tomorrow!
Brow consult: Just as in the facial treatment, consultation with the client prior to service will help to maintain client satisfaction and ensure that the service is performed according to any contraindications.
During the consultation we will:
Assess client’s current brow shape, discuss desired shape and determine if corrective techniques will be required
Explain to client they may need to grow portions of the brow out in order to create desired shape
Growing out may take weeks or months and is a commitment
During the growing out phase, desired look can be achieved by filling in the brows
Be sure to perform consultation with client in a seated position
Have client hold mirror so you are able to point out any areas with sparse hair or gaps in the brow which may alter final look
Face shapes and zones: The shape of the face, and utilization of the 3 facial zones can help determine which brow shape is best suited for a client.
The 7 face shapes are:
Oval (ideal facial shape due to its symmetry) Round
Square Rectangle
Triangle Heart
Diamond
The face can be divided into 3 distinct zones from top to bottom. The idea is to bring all zones into harmony with one another in order to promote a more balanced and esthetically pleasing appearance to the face. Example: A corrective technique for a diamond shape face would be to widen the upper zone of the face. You could do this simply by changing the location of the arch of the brow and bringing it out closer to the end of the brow.
The 3 zones are:
Upper zone is from hairline to below the brow
Middle zone is from eyebrows to base of the nose
Lower zone is from base of the nose to bottom of the chin

24. choosing a brow design Brow shape
There are many factors to take into consideration when choosing a brow shape:
Facial features such as eye size and orientation, nose shape, etc.
Length of the brow hair – you may need to trim any unruly hairs to maintain a clean and polished appearance to the brows
Texture of brow hair – ranges from soft and downy to thick and wiry, may need a setting gel/cream to keep brow hairs in place
Direction of growth – hairs that grow downwards can be difficult to shape and manage
Color of brows – does it compliment the client’s skin tone and hair? The brow color can be changed with the use of tints, bleach or liner/pencil
Excess hairs – determine if any excess hairs can be included into the overall design shape of the brow or if they need to be removed
Corrective techniques
When changing the existing brow shape, be sure to have client follow along with you in the mirror as you discuss which hairs you plan to remove in order to achieve their desired shape.
Optional to draw in “no-no” zones with brow pencil in order to give client a clearer picture if necessary before moving forward with the removal process. This is especially helpful for students to do while they are working on each other practicing and perfecting their techniques, and to make sure nobody loses a brow during a workshop! Discuss any fill-in work they will need to do to maintain the brow appearance in between services. Recommend products to help them achieve their desired look. Show them how to fill in the brows utilizing stencils/powder/liner/gel etc. have them follow along in the mirror as you explain the step-by-step process for them to achieve the look at home on their own.
choosing a brow design

25. considerations Will the design open up the eye area?
Brow clean-up, shaping or design?
Decide where brow should begin, arch and finish
Available enhancements
Undergraduate Instructor: optional interactive learning activity:
Have students assess their own brows and determine the beginning, arch, and end – as well as if any corrective techniques would be needed
Supply eye liner pencils, hand sanitizer, mirrors, and small sticks
As you review how to measure the brows, have students follow along and mark their own brows
Have students choose a corrective technique they would be interested in learning more about (optional to give as a home assignment to be presented in class)
Discuss the design options for deciding where the brow should begin, arch (naturally) and end. All decisions will be based on the client’s face and eye shape, a pre-design consultation and an end result that satisfies the client.
Beginning of the brow – measure with a small stick from the center of the nostril up to the brow and mark with a liner pencil as this is where the brow should begin. This may be moved slightly if you are looking to change or alter a brow shape. Corrective techniques such as filling in the brow if too much hair has been removed from prior brow services.
Arch – measure with a small stick from the center of the nose moving diagonally through the iris and up to the brow, mark with a liner pencil as this will be a guide as to where the arch should ideally begin. The location of the clients existing arch will determine if corrective techniques are necessary such as filling in or moving the location of the arch.
End point – measure with a small stick from the outer corner of the nose moving diagonally through the outer corner of the eye and out to the brow, mark with a liner pencil as this is where the brow should end. Corrective techniques may be required to extend the brow if too much hair has been removed from prior brow services.
Length of the brow – measuring horizontally from the beginning of the brow to the end of the brow, ideally the brow should be just over 2 inches in length or the client’s face can appear unbalanced.
Which service best suits client’s needs? All take varying amounts of time, require different levels of skill, and price point will vary.
Brow clean up – removing stray hairs from a brow that has an obvious shape and design
Brow shaping – altering an existing brow shape (more defined arch, shorted tail, etc.)
Brow design – necessary for therapist to “create” a brow shape from scratch (client has removed too much hair, overzealous tweezing, hair loss due to disease or trauma)
Brows are a BIG deal these days! Due to society’s emphasis on brow beauty, there are many enhancements available to achieve the brow of your dreams without the wait:
Stencils
Brow tinting
Semi-permanent and permanent brow makeup
Brow “wigs” for clients who have lost their hair
Brow extensions
And even transplants!
Link: Let’s take a look at some tools that will come in handy.

26. your toolkit Mirror Tweezers Brow brush/comb Scissors Brow stencils
Small sticks & strips
Brow pencil, gel, powder
Highlighter
These are important items to have in your brow shaping tool-kit. All items are optional, and you will find which products you like to work with best. Remember to always follow sanitation guidelines and protocols according to your state regulatory agency for proper cleaning of all implements used.
You may of course add additional tools and supplies to the list. Discuss and highlight pre and post care, in addition to client protection.

27. brows behaving badly
Undergraduate Instructor: this is an animated slide. Each click will bring up a different picture of “brows behaving badly”.
The world of brows can be an interesting place! Discuss the various brow shapes with the students and get feedback on what they would do differently to enhance these client’s features. This is sure to get the students talking and interacting with one another.
The following slides are hidden and contain sample protocols which can be used during hair removal demonstrations for:
Full leg wax
Arm wax
Underarm wax
Brow shaping
Lip wax

28. Now it’s time to take everything the students have learned and put it into action. The following slides contain sample protocols for instructor led demonstrations for body waxing. We recommend performing a demonstration of a large body part such as the legs, followed by a student practical session. This gives the students a large canvas on which to practice and refine all of the finer details that go into a waxing service, and allows time to become comfortable and adept with application and removal. Start with the legs and work your way through all body waxing prior to introducing facial waxing and brow design, giving the students time to build their confidence with this new skill set.
demonstration