1. Sewing Class Part 3 The Headpiece/Tam Project

2. Todays Objectives We will review the instructions for the headpiece and tam We will explore various method of finishing seams and continue with our projects

3. Todays Sewing Tools

4. Double zigzag seam. A nice finish to use with sheer chiffons and georgetteseven garments with multiple layers of chiffon. The zigzag stitch allows the fabric to relax and not draw up(which is necessary on bias seams). While this method seems unfinished to perfectionist sewers, it is used quite often in expensive designer clothing. To prevent fraying, sew two rows of zigzag stitches.

5. Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch that is 1.5mm long and 1.5mm wide. You may need to experiment with your stitch settings to get a perfectly flat stitch on this type of fabric. Sew this seam with a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Reset your machine to a wider and longer zigzag stitcha 2.5mm length and 2.5mm width. Sew a line of stitching right next to the first line inside the seam allowance. Trim the seam right next to the second row of zigzag stitches. Use the bird clamp for extra support if the fabric is very slinky. Thats it: The raw edges are your finish and will not ravel.

6. Turned and stitched. This finish is best used with opaque fabrics such as silk broadcloth, crepe de Chine, charmeuse, and silk crepes. It is used in designer clothing as well as in mid-priced lines. It works on straightcut, bias-cut, and curved seams

7. Turn under the seam allowance 1/4 inch, and stitch close to the fold. Row edges are hidden under the seam allowance. Sew your standard seam first with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, and press it open. Turn under the seam allowance 1/4 inch and edgestitch close to the fold along each side. Be careful to stitch only along the seam allowance and not on the actual garment. Use an edgestitch presser foot to keep the stitches an even distance from the fold. No trimming is required on this seam finish

8. Pinked and Serged Press open the seam allowances, and stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edges. Trim with pinking shears. Use a three- thread overlock stitch for less bulk.

9. Step 1: Pin the headpiece pattern pieces to the selected fabric, making sure that the straight edge of each piece is aligned with the fold of the fabric; then cut out each piece. Step 2: Pin the curved edges of headpiece and facing together with right sides facing each other. Step 3: Beginning at the edge of the curve, sew a half-inch seam from one side of the curve to the other. Clip the curves and press. The Headpiece

10. Understitch the area you just sewed. Finish the remaining raw edges in one of the following ways. –Fold under a one-fourth inch seam, press, and sew. –Zig-zag stitch, overlock stitch, or serge the edges; fold over a one-forth inch seam, press, and sew. –An alternate way is to finish the raw edges BEFORE beginning the construction of the headpiece. The Headpiece

11. The Tam What you have done so far: Step 1-Cut out the fabric pieces. Cut one band piece 22" x 4" (small), 23" x 4" (medium), or 24" x 4" (large). For optimum comfort and fit, the longer length of the band should be parallel to the stretchiest (crosswise) grain. Cut out two 13" circles* for the crown of each beret. One circle will be the upper crown and one will be the lower crown. Quarter fold each crown circle, clipping the outer edge at the quartermarks.

12. On the lower crown piece, cut a 6" circle* out of the center. Save the 6" circle for an optional rose accent (see Style Variations below). Quarter fold and clip the inner edge of donut. The Tam

13. Step 2: Create the band. Note: If possible, fit the band to the wearers head before final stitching of the band seam. Because of the forgiving nature of most knits, size alterations of the band wont require any alterations of the lower crown. ** If available, substitute serged seaming, stitching and trimming in one step. Stitch the short ends of the band, right sides together. Finger press the seam open. If using heavier fabrics such as fleece, layer the seam allowance widths to minimize bulk. Fold the band in half, enclosing the seam. Align the raw edges and quarterfold, clipping at the quartermarks. On the lower crown piece, cut a 6" circle* out of the center. Save the 6" circle for an optional rose accent (see Style Variations below). Quarter fold and clip the inner edge of donut. The Tam

14. Step 3: Stitch the band to the crown. Matching the quartermarks, pin the band to the inner edge of the lower crown, right sides together. Stitch the band to the lower crown. Stitch the allowances together, 1/4" from seamline. Trim to the stitching.** On the lower crown piece, cut a 6" circle* out of the center. Save the 6" circle for an optional rose accent (see Style Variations below). Quarter fold and clip the inner edge of donut. The Tam

15. Step 4: Stitch lower crown to upper crown. Matching the quartermarks, pin the lower and upper crown pieces, right sides together. Stitch the crowns together. Stitch the allowances together, 1/4" from the seamline. Trim to the stitching.** On the lower crown piece, cut a 6" circle* out of the center. Save the 6" circle for an optional rose accent (see Style Variations below). Quarter fold and clip the inner edge of donut. The Tam

16. Add a rosette to the beret band. –Use the 6" circle cut from the lower crown piece (see Step 1); quarterfold and cut out a 2" (or so) center. –Finish the outer edge of the rosette. For a no-sew finish, cut decoratively with a rotary cutter using a pinking or waved blade. For a sewn finish, serge with a rolled edge or turn under 1/4" and zigzag. Optional: Make a lettuced look on the edge by shortening the stitch length and stretching as you serge or sew. –Machine baste 1/4" from the edge of the inside opening, securing one end. Gather the opening closed. The Tam Style Variations

17. Back to our projects!