1. Choose one of the 3 assignments
FASHION HISTORY 101
Choose one of the 3 assignments

2. Illustrated Notes

3. Instructions
Illustrate the details highlighted in red using images from the Internet. Present the images in any format.
Use ONLY paintings and illustrations from the period, or photographs of the actual garments. Museum websites such as the Victoria and Albert ( are particularly good.
Include the citation for each image
Label each photo with the period or year
Write a sentence or two about what the image demonstrates.

4. Women’s clothes were characterized by a high waistline
Ancient Egyptians
The King controlled everything, even clothes
Clothing style did not determine the position as much as the cloth that was used to make it. For example the pharaoh’s clothes were made from fine linen enriched with gold thread
Fabrics used were linen, cotton, wool and leather
Because of the heat clothing was roomy, –
Women’s clothes were characterized by a high waistline
man’s loin cloth
Shoes were for indoor wear only
Women used make-up to lighten their skin. Men used it to underline their eyes and enhance their eyebrows
Colors
Green – life, youth
Yellow – gold, flesh of the gods
Black – only in wigs
White – most common color, happiness

5. Ancient Greece Ancient Rome
Clothes were basic and simple. Most originated from a rectangular piece of cloth.
Minimal sewing. Clothes were wrapped or draped
Chiton – tunic, wool rectangle draped over the body. Left arm was covered, right arm was not. The length determined status and use
Wool and linen were most common fabrics
Ancient Rome
Tunic with cloak over it – color, shape and decoration of these items denoted social status
Only citizens could wear toga’s, slaves could not
Because the empire was so vast there were a wide range of climates in the empire, this was the first time you see seasonal dressing

6. Byzantine Middle Ages Only royalty could wear purple
Typical styles had heavy layers and long billowing tunics
These were worn by both sexes and made their shape indistinguishable
men wore pants
Domestically produced silk was introduced
Middle Ages
The major introduction from the East was using buttons to fasten clothing
Fashion was still not a consideration for most people.
Dress served a functional purpose or designated a rank or position.
Wool the most important fabric of the middle ages
Shoe toes were up to 18” long, a law set lengths to specified classes
Women’s clothes had a slightly protruding belly

7. The Renaissance Velvet was first used
Velvet was first used
Clothes were regarded as an investment. Time was spent on upkeep and repair.
Detachable sleeves –affordable way to change the style of a garment (predated the modern custom of buying skirts and blouses – mix and match)
Fans and handkerchiefs – brought to the new world by Columbus when he went to China and the new world
Sumptuary laws (Poor people could not have handkerchiefs by law)
Fabric merchants were prominent citizens
The beauty of the fabric was appreciated. Rich fabric was left unadorned
Wool, linen and cotton were the main fabrics
England – wool
Germany/Ireland – linen
Spain/Italy – velvet, damask, brocade, satin

8. The Baroque Period Europe (1600-1750) Costume Women’s Men’s – Textiles
Emergence of the new middle class accelerated the pace of fashion. The middle class had more money and adopted styles of the upper class. The upper class then sought new styles to distinguish themselves from the masses.
The silhouette became more natural, comfort and individual personality began to play a role.
En suite – unlike the mix and match of the 16th Century, many pieces from the same fabric and could be worn simultaneously
Women’s
Décolletage – plunging neckline
Men’s –
Cavalier
Persian style – 3 pc suit (coat, waistcoat and breeches). Formed the foundation of modern men’s formal attire
Textiles
Clothing for men’s/women’s/kid’s all from the same material
Textiles were appreciated for themselves

9. Eighteenth Century Rococo – sumptuous style
Global textile trade thrived, ribbons, laces, ruffles, ruching, silk flowers
Forcing commoners (“the Third Estate”) to wear dark, dreary clothes was something that was a prompting factor in the French Revolution
Women – even lower class women were beginning to be able to be independent
Their Silhouette was based on panniers
Eventually their discomfort (and difficulty in movement) made them outmoded
Cul de Paris – a tiny pillow that accentuates the size of a women’s backside
The Revolution assisted fashion’s road to informality. Empire styles did away with clothes made of silk, velvet and brocade. It liberated women from corsets, panniers and tall powdered wigs
Austerity began to dominate women’s fashion. In the boutiques shops selling RTW opened. Fashion was now established by the wishes of the bourgeoisie not wanting to associate with the ancient regime
Men’s clothing
Waistcoat and breeches – decorative element of a man’s wardrobe, damask, satin or velvet, intricate embroidery, gold/silver buttons
Lace collared shirt (jabot) underneath, collar was tied like a scarf
Men wore corsets and jacket
Flared into a semicircle at the hips

10. Textiles
Mechanized inventions played a key role – cotton/wool manufacturing
Flying shuttle, knitting machines
1793 – Cotton gin
Separated fiber from seed, made cotton big industry in the US, industry upon which American colonies were built.
Techniques for dying and printing also developed.
Other facts
Make up and grooming – washing was not common. Make up was worn to conceal dirty skin. Disguised body odor with perfume
Wigs – hair was powdered for men and women
Corset – status symbol because it prevented over exertion. It showed you were a member of the leisured class
Fashion magazines

11. Nineteenth Century
Clothing industry – previously called the “needle trade”
1846 – sewing machine invented by Singer
Patterns next
Knitting machines
Department Store invented
Previously items were only available in small shops and stalls. Clothes that were kept in locked glass were now out in the open. They were in full view for the customer to look at and purchase. Browsing was encouraged to tempt impulse buys.
Bargaining (the market place practice) was replaced by fixed prices
Women
After domestic work, the textile industry was the highest employer of women. The conditions were hard; they worked 12 –14 hours a day, 6-7days a week.
The wages were so low women turned to prostitution
Women and children worked the same hours
Unsafe, unheated, unventilated and ill lit.
Men
Beau Brummell - the original dandy. Jettisoned all that was excessive
Ruffles, lace and white silk were replaced by superbly fitting sober clothes
Dandyism got men cleaner, plainer and more practical

12. 20th Century. Liberalization – women’s position changed
Opening of the Eastern Block and China led to increased demand for Western Style and goods
Early 20th Century
Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944)
Thought the corset altered the silhouette so he developed the bra.
During shows he performed by standing on platform with a pair of scissors, a box of pins and a roll of material. He made a dress from that in minutes
Marie Vionett – did not sketch, used 2’ high models
She started using bias
Coco Chanel (1883 – 1971)
“Total look” versus shape. Individual items of clothing are not as important as what they are accessorized, worn with and how they are worn
New Look/Dior (1905 – 19570
Curvaceous silhouette
Unstructured yet tailored clothes
Died suddenly in 1957
21 year old Yves St Laurent was elevated to designer in chief
He was fired 2 years later and replaced by John Gallaino
St. Laurent – genderless daytime pant suit
Pants on women became the rage
Fashion and pop music were used to demonstrate youthful dissatisfaction with the state of society (beat nick, hippies, punk, grunge)

13. 19th Century Dress Assignment
1. Select a female character from a 19th century novel, and create a detailed sketch of her with strict historical accuracy. You will need to research the fashion of the period in order to complete this assignment.
The fashion can be either daytime or evening and must include all aspects of her appearance including hair, fabric, jewelry and all other accessories, dress silhouette, seaming, shoes or boots (and undergarments) if visible.
2. Provide two historical proofs (images) to explain your costume choices and why they are appropriate. Your visual proofs must be from two different research sources (e.g., books on historical costume; if using Internet—ONLY museum collections).

14. Costume Drama
Watch a costume drama that features 19th century women’s fashions. Select three outfits from the movie and write a review of the historical accuracy of each of these costumes using accurate terms and vocabulary.
2. Provide one historical proof (image) for each costume selected to explain help support your opinion on the historical accuracy of the fashion. Your visual proofs must be from at least two different research sources (e.g., books on historical costume; if using Internet—ONLY museum collections).