1. How do waves erode and deposit sediment?
Today’s Objective:
How do waves erode and deposit sediment?

2. Do all beaches have sand?
A beach is any area of the shoreline made from material deposited by waves. However, a beach does not have to be only sand? No
Sand sized particles
Pebble sized particles

3. The shoreline is where the land and a body of water meet.
What is the shoreline?
The shoreline is where the land and a body of water meet.

4. What causes waves?
Waves are caused by the interaction between the atmosphere and the hydrosphere.

5. Coasts are a balance between erosion and deposition
Waves along the shoreline are constantly weathering, eroding, and depositing sediments.
Coasts are a balance between erosion and deposition

6. Forces Acting on the Shoreline
Wave Impact
Abrasion
Wave Refraction
Longshore Transport

7. Forces Acting on the Shoreline
Wave Impact
Waves can throw thousands of tons of water against the shore causing cracks in coastal structures.
Abrasion
The grinding of rock fragments by the waves cause smooth rounded stones, pebbles and shells to land on the shore

8. Wave Refraction
Waves hit the shore at a slight angle, because of this refraction headlands (or land that sticks out into the ocean) receive more erosion and the bays (areas between headlands) receive more deposition.

9. Longshore Transport
The longshore current flows parallel to the shore and moves large amounts of sediments horizontally along the coastline.
Video

10. Shoreline features that are caused by the removal of sediment
Erosional Features
Shoreline features that are caused by the removal of sediment
Arches
Cliffs
Platforms

11. Depositional Features
Sediments moving along the shore are deposited in areas where the water slows
Spit
A curved area where sand is deposited
Sand Bar

12. Sand Bar vs Barrier Beach
Barrier Beach - permanent land formation that forms between the mainland and the ocean
Ex. Jones Beach and Fire Island
Sand Bar – A temporary pile of sand at or above sea level
Would YOU want to live on this barrier island?

13. Sand spits, sand bars, barrier islands, lagoons
are ALL temporary features, just happening
to be where the water is slow enough to
drop its sediment.

14. Deposition due to WAVES is usually
Sorted (lg to sm)
Rounded
Makes no sense without caption in book

15. Where would erosion happen? E and C
Where would deposition happen?
B and D

16. Hurricane Sandy Pre- and Post-Storm Photo Comparisons New Jersey/ New York
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17. Large erosional scarps are visible in the low cliff
Deal, NJ.
Large erosional scarps are visible in the low cliff

18. Mantoloking, NJ Storm waves and surge cut across the barrier island, eroding a wide beach, destroying houses and roads, and depositing sand onto the island and into the back-bay.
Makes no sense without caption in book

19. Seaside Height Pier, NJ.
Storm waves and surge eroded the beach and destroyed the seaward edge of the pier and deposited the roller coaster superstructure in the ocean.

20. Bridgehampton, New York
Bridgehampton, New York This location is a very narrow and periodically opens during large storms.
Makes no sense without caption in book

21. Cupsogue Beach, New York.
The breach that formed during Sandy is just east of Moriches Inlet, which formed during a large nor'easter storm in 1931 and was stabilized in the 1950s.

22. Using this diagram complete your worksheet!