1. Pinhole Camera

2. Pinhole camera
It is a can with a hole in it to let the light come through.
Light rays go through it and hit light sensitive paper.
We have to use a smaller hole to let a few light rays in, if we have too many, nothing will be in focus.

3. Pinhole Camera
The hole needs to be small enough, otherwise you get blur.

4. A pinhole camera works on a simple principle.
Pretend you are in a dark room. There is a small hole in your dark room. Outside of the hole/darkroom your friend lights a flash light. The opposite wall will reflect that light. As your friend moves the flash light around the light on the wall also moves around.
The smaller the hole, the sharper the reflected light.
The pinhole in a pinhole camera acts as the lens.

5. Now you are going to have light sensitive paper in your tin can therefor the hole needs to be covered. The paper needs to be covered at all times.
Light leak? Black paper. No image. Reshoot.
Place the paper into the tin can in the darkroom. Why?

6. Testing Exposure You will load your paper in the darkroom.
The shiny part of the paper faces the hole – but on the wall opposite of the hole.

7. When you leave the darkroom MAKE SURE THE LID IS ON YOUR TIN CAN AND THAT YOU HAVE A MAGNET COVERING THE HOLE. No light leaks.

8. PinHole Camera https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4bf2IO3- Wg
How to use it Wg
STOP AT 1:17 AS WE USE CHEMICALS. Not mint.

9. Testing Exposure
Place your camera on something stable. See where the hole is pointing to.
THINK OF ELEMENTS OF DESIGN PEOPLE NO CARS, NO TRASHBINS, NO CELL PHONES.
Rid the magnet, open the hole, let the light shine on through.
TIME THIS FOR 20 SECONDS.
After 20 seconds, place something in front of your camera. Time that for 10 seconds, assume it’s a shoe.
After 10 seconds, place your other shoe in front of the camera.
After 10 seconds, place a sweater in front of the camera.
At the moment you have 2 shoes and a sweater.
After 10 seconds add a backpack.
Close the hole and come into the darkroom to process the paper.

10. Go through the trays.
Tray 1, developer – place your paper in there for 60 seconds.
Tray 2, stop bath – place your paper in there for 30 seconds.
Tray 3, fixer – place that same paper in there for 6 minutes.
Tilt the trays back and forth to ensure the chemistry is always moving.

11. In the darkroom
Start with developer, 1 minute. Agitate. Not aggravate…agitate…
Then shake that off, place it into the stop bath 30 seconds. Agitate again. Shake that off.
Then fix, 5-6 minutes. Agitate again, shake off the chemistry.
Then rinse, with plain water 6 minutes.
Finally dry. W0
TO 6 MINUTES ONLY.

12. Check to see how many objects are in the shot.
Assume you have your shoe (too dark), the other shoe (still too dark) and the sweater which, hey, that looks great, the backpack too light…
Well the backpack was 10 seconds, the sweater was another 10 seconds, so you will need a 20 second exposure.
That should give you the result.
Lets assume the 1st shoe looked amazing – exposure wise.
So, the backpack was 10 seconds, the sweater, 10 seconds, the 2nd shoe 10 seconds, and the first show another 10 seconds…. Total exposure: 40 seconds.

13. SO now you show your teacher and we will help you this time around.
Once we give you an exposure time we will give you another piece of paper and this will be your final shot.
If I say, 40 second exposure, then go back to the SAME PLACE WITH THE SAME LIGHTING and expose for 40 seconds or 20 seconds whatever works given your exposure test.
Time it. Close it. Develop it again.

14. What you will get is a negative
What you will get is a negative. The light bits will appear dark, the dark bits will be light.
Keep it.
But next we have to change it into a positive.

15. You will get a negative www.imgarcade.com
You will get the first image, which is a negative, to turn that into a positive, please look at the next page.

16. How to Develop a Positive from a Negative Image
v=6epb_vKrRjU
Have the light on for 60 seconds.

17. In the darkroom
Place your photo under the glass, shiny part down. Place a new sheet of photo paper under your photo, shiny part up.
The shiny bits touch.
Turn on the enlarger light, time it for 60 seconds.
There is a timer at each machine.

18. Then do the same chemistry!

19. Photo on the right, WWW. BETTERPHOTOGRAPHY
Photo on the right, ON THE LEFT,

20. Subject Matter - https://petapixel
Subject Matter - questions-frank-machalowski-eerie-long-exposure-images-crowds/
The camera has to sit on a flat surface, think of ‘Point of View’ for your theme. Place the camera on the ground for something interesting.
Capture motion, this will be a long exposure. Get a ghosting effect.

21. To get clear images, have it rest on something.

22. Questions? A B C Not there yet
Had detail in blacks and detail in whites. Not overly contrasty.
Pretty good result. Acceptable.
Results too contrasty or not enough contrast.
Good tonal range with rich blacks and whites. Not too light, not too dark. Exposure perfect.
Exposure close.
Exposure off, too light or too dark.
Not done
Density excellent.
Density a bit thin or thick, but acceptable.
Density too thin or too thick.
PINHOLE CAMERA, POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE
At least 2 elements of design found.
1 element of design found.
No element of design found.
Wow factor.
Great result.
Made an attempt is somewhat acceptable.