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Class The Oceans BEACH PROCESSES

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Presentation on theme: "Class The Oceans BEACH PROCESSES"— Presentation transcript:

1 Class 30 -- The Oceans BEACH PROCESSES
Transport of sediments along shorelines Human intervention in beach processes

2 Wave fronts and onshore "swash" -- oblique to beach front
"Backswash" perpendicular to beach front

3 Net Result: Longshore transport,
Water and sediment move parallel to the beach front

4 Longshore transport It’s strength depends on wave energy…
Sediment moves rapidly in areas of greater wave energy Sediment dropped where wave energy is lesser

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6 Erosion occurs in areas of strong wave action (headlands)
Longshore transport tends to be away from headlands and toward quieter areas

7 Both sediment and water converge in recessed areas
Sediment collects there (beaches) Water turns back seaward Rip currents move water offshore

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9 BEACH PROCESSES -- Natural
Beach = temporary accumulation of sediments Seds come from rivers, headland erosion Beach dynamics -- continuous sediment movement due to waves and longshore currents.

10 BEACH PROCESSES -- Natural
Most beaches constantly gain and lose sediment The budget can have a surplus or a deficit

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12 Human Impact On Beach/coastal Processes
(1) Dams on rivers Reduce sediment input to coasts; beaches become “sediment starved” Longshore transport continues carrying seds Beaches are eroded

13 Human Impact On Beach/coastal Processes
(2) "Groins" to minimize loss of beach sand Upwind side: deposition Downwind side: erosion; beaches starved of their sediment supply

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15 (3) Breakwaters to protect harbors
Reduce wave energy --> deposition in harbor Need frequent dredging Erosion of downwind beaches- sediment supply cut off

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18 Beach dynamics 2 Common themes: Sediment transport links all beaches, sediment sources, and sediment traps on a coastline Intervention to address a single demand of society often leads to a chain of unforeseen consequences due to erosion or deposition.


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