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Class 30 -- The Oceans BEACH PROCESSES
Transport of sediments along shorelines Human intervention in beach processes
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Wave fronts and onshore "swash" -- oblique to beach front
"Backswash" perpendicular to beach front
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Net Result: Longshore transport,
Water and sediment move parallel to the beach front
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Longshore transport It’s strength depends on wave energy…
Sediment moves rapidly in areas of greater wave energy Sediment dropped where wave energy is lesser
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Erosion occurs in areas of strong wave action (headlands)
Longshore transport tends to be away from headlands and toward quieter areas
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Both sediment and water converge in recessed areas
Sediment collects there (beaches) Water turns back seaward Rip currents move water offshore
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BEACH PROCESSES -- Natural
Beach = temporary accumulation of sediments Seds come from rivers, headland erosion Beach dynamics -- continuous sediment movement due to waves and longshore currents.
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BEACH PROCESSES -- Natural
Most beaches constantly gain and lose sediment The budget can have a surplus or a deficit
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Human Impact On Beach/coastal Processes
(1) Dams on rivers Reduce sediment input to coasts; beaches become “sediment starved” Longshore transport continues carrying seds Beaches are eroded
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Human Impact On Beach/coastal Processes
(2) "Groins" to minimize loss of beach sand Upwind side: deposition Downwind side: erosion; beaches starved of their sediment supply
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(3) Breakwaters to protect harbors
Reduce wave energy --> deposition in harbor Need frequent dredging Erosion of downwind beaches- sediment supply cut off
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Beach dynamics 2 Common themes: Sediment transport links all beaches, sediment sources, and sediment traps on a coastline Intervention to address a single demand of society often leads to a chain of unforeseen consequences due to erosion or deposition.
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