1. Painting Historical Figures with Oils
Brian Duddy

2. Prep the Model
Examine kit parts for defects, “test fit” parts, smooth mating surfaces – add arm and head pins for easier painting
Correct any defects, fill voids with putty or Mr Surfacer, remove mold seams – pre- prime if necessary to see voids
Decide on mounting arrangement, fit foot pins or other mounting parts
Gather reference materials for clothing and groundwork
Decide on base, figure orientation and groundwork (if desired) 
If adding any enhancements or additional sculpting, do so now
Wash kit parts in dish soap and rinse

3. Paint - X 3
Select primer color close to finish color – gray, white, or tan
Prime figure and accessories – brush, spray can, airbrush
Decide on final figure and clothing colors
Undercoat with enamels or acrylics close to finish color
Assemble figure as desired for easier painting (or assemble after painting.)
Decide on top coat medium – enamel, acrylic, or artists’ oils EMBRACE THE OILS!!!!

4. Paint The Face First
Paint and shade top coat, working from “inside out” - - Paint the figure like you were dressing it
Face and skin first, then clothing, shoes and accessories
Different techniques required for different scales.
Eyes - Face - Figure
Undercoat face area with flesh color - Tamiya spray, Vallejo acrylic, Model Master enamel all work well. Must undercoat resin figs with enamel for Vallejo acrylic to stick.
When undercoat dry, wash recesses, eyes and folds with Burnt Umber oil wash.
 Let wash dry a day or so, then do whites of eyes with acrylic paint. Not pure white but slightly off white.

5. Face Details
Let white dry, then do iris and pupil (depending on scale). Align pupil with corners of mouth.
PUT ON CATCH LIGHT!!!!! (It looks wrong, but it also looks wrong if you don’t have it.)
Once you are happy with eyes, continue with rest of face.
Flesh paint: Sennelier (Fr.) Oil Flesh Ochre. Now called either Blush Tint or Modigliani Ochre. One is a little more reddish than the other. Slightly pricier than WN or Grumbacher, but worth it. Requires no tinting or mixing, just put right on as is. Thin with Windsor Newton Sansodor.

6. More Face Details
Work shadow areas with Flesh + Burnt Umber. Under chin, back of neck, behind ears. Use flesh as is for main part of face. Once face is painted, use a small amount of red in cheeks. Same color for ears.
Then small Burnt Umber on chin area for stubble. Then do hair in appropriate color.
Mix some red or crimson to do the lips, mostly bottom lip. They are more reddish than you think they are.
Use a bit of white with flesh for bridge of nose, forehead, and high part of cheeks.
Once face is dry, put in eyebrows, if you want them to stand out.
When whole face is dry, spray with Dullcoat. Use Vallejo gloss for eyes.

7. The “Shep Paine Traditional Method”

8. Female Figure Details
This is for male faces. For female faces, eyes are the same but the other color changes are more subtle and blended, not as angular. - Makeup or Not?

9. Final Steps Paint the rest of the figure working from “inside out”.
Highlight tops of folds and darken inside of shadow areas.
Blend camo with washes
Save small details for last.

10. Finishing Touches Assemble completed figure and accessories
Spray final “clear coat” (usually flat finish) for final sealing – Tamiya or Testors
Highlight eyes and glossy areas with gloss coat
Tinted Shoe Polish works on leather items.
Apply groundwork to base and attach figure
Things to remember:
Apply dark shades over light, not the reverse
Enamels and acrylics dry fast, oils much slower
Blend groundwork into figure to make a complete picture
Label your base – Tell the story!

11. Recommended Paints Best Oils to use: For US uniforms -
Windsor Newton (WN)
Grumbacher
Sennelier if available
For US uniforms -
Olive Drab is:
Yellow Ochre + Black
Thinner - WN Sansodor
(also helps dry time)

12. “Any
Questions?”

13. “Now get out there
and PAINT!!!!!”