1. Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

2. Key Concepts and Terms Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack)
Block Pattern
CAD-Computer Aided Design
Costing
Design Details
Design Samples
Drafting a Pattern
Flat Pattern
Garment Cost Sheet
Grading

3. Key Concepts and Terms Logistics Pattern Maker
Pattern Specification Sheet
Production Samples
Prototype
Retail
Reverse Engineered Pattern
Sloper Pattern
Sourcing
Tariffs
Wholesale

4. Pattern Making Process
Consider the fabric construction type and design details of conceptualized garment or apparel product
Create a pattern
Select the materials (fabrication and trims)
Construct the sample (prototype)
Fit, revise and finalize the sample
Create an apparel technical design pack
Prepare pattern for mass production

5. Considerations Fabric Construction Type:
Will the garment be made from a knit or woven fabric?
Answer to the above question will determine how much ease is needed when creating the pattern.
Design Details:
Special seams and stitching detail
Darts, pleats, and tucks
Casings and waistbands
Plackets, sleeves, cuffs, and collars
Pockets
Fasteners
*Note: Presence of certain parts and/or design details in a garment, illustrate a particular style.

6. Design Details *Garment Parts and Styles
Basic Dress Styles:
Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot
Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent,
Empire or Lower waistline
Other Dress Styles: Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress
Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan
Neckline Styles: Decollete̒, Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole.
Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two-Piece Tailored
Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley

7. Design Details *Garment Parts and Styles
Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing
Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts,
Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes
Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design
Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box
Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap
Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap

8. Creating a Pattern
Designers begin by creating a 2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods:
Flat Pattern
Drafting
Reversed Engineered
Draping
Computer Generated

9. Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods
Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block.
Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

10. Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods
Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements.
Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video
Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

11. Types of 3D Pattern Making Methods
Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making.
Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products.
Image Source:

12. Selecting The Materials and Costing
Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc.
Preliminary costing is completed to ensure profitability.
Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

13. Construct the Sample
Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers.
Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques.
They work closely to ensure fit and design integrity.
Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

14. FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE PATTERN
Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment.
Revise garment fit until it is correct.
Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com

15. Apparel Design Technical Pack
The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized.
Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video
The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following:
1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

16. Apparel Design Technical Pack
2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc.
3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color.
4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics.
5. Measurement details.
6. Care Instructions for labeling
7. Color details and season information

17. Sample of an Apparel Design Technical Pack
Date-
Designer-
Season-
Style #-
Technical Sketch- include design and construction details
Body Measurements
Hardware and Trim
Fabrication and Color
Care Label Information
Comments
Swatch of Fabrics

18. Prepare Pattern For Mass Production
Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion.
The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer, but can be done by hand.
Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.