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P H U L K A R I
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WHAT IS PHULKARI? Phulkari, a rural tradition of handmade embroidery, literally meaning " flower work ", was perpetuated by the women of Punjab (North-west India & Pakistan) during the 19th century and till the beginning of the 20th century. PHULKARI IS IS MORE THAN JUST AN ITEM OF CLOTHING. IT’S A PART OF THE ETHOS STEEPED IN SOCIAL AND CULTUREAL TRADITIONS. PHULI MEANS FLOWER AND KARI MEANS WORK. ALSO KNOWN AS GULKARI,A VERY INTRICATE NEEDLE WORK ALONG WITH BRIGHT COLOURED THREADS, LIKE GREEN ORANGE RED BLUE PINK
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Sources of Inspiration
Thread by thread, each motif was created in a geometric grid, which was a peculiar technique for coming up with a curvilinear final output. Long and short darn stitch was put to clever use for creating horizontal, vertical and diagonal thread work, inspired by routine of the artists, flowers, and animals. Motifs used were an adroit representation of the dear and sundry values of Punjab. Since it was essentially a communal activity, colors and shades were somewhat run-of-the-mill, however, the fact that most of the women were experts in Phulkari would even make mediocre look exquisite. Back in the days, it was a reflection of routine and regular life of a typical Punjabi woman. She embroidered on a cotton cloth a tale of her tryst with the gardens.
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The motifs spun out of the untwisted floss of silk, which is known as the pat, are cleverly fitted within the grids, representing the life in the hamlets of Punjab. Different Phulkari designs are reserved for different occasions. While Chope is a gift from the maternal uncle to the bride Variety Wari da Bagh represents happiness. Similarly Chamba, Suber and Ghunghat Bagh all have a specific meaning and value attached Pachranga and Satranga varieties are available in each of these types, which, basically means that the needlework used on most Phulkari works makes use of five or seven different colors of threads
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Wearing Phulkari A Phulkari suit or sari mixed and matched with ethnic jewelry in contrast colours looks admirable. Accessorize your Phulakari outfit with oxidized silver jewellery for a complete traditional look. Phulkari Odinis/Dupattas can be teamed with plain kurti-patiala or a cotton top worn over rugged denim for a contemporary look. Owing to its wearability all around the year, the style rates quite high on the global wearability factor. Depending on the occasion the Phulkari can be customized for occasional or regular dressing.
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Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (IGNCA) acquired a collection of selected phulkari for its archives in 1994. Some modern fashion designers are incorporating this embroidery into their garments, and its use has spread beyond salwarkameez and dupatta to objects and garments as varied, as jackets, bags, cushion covers, table-mats, shoes, slipper, juttis, and kids garments. REVIVAL Over the years, government has been working towards promotion of phulkari embroidery, by organizing special training programs, fairs, and exhibitions. Since most of women artisan creating phulkari are in the unorganized sector or work through agents, they do not make much money compared to an actual market price of their product, to avoid this lacuna Punjab Small Industries and Export Corporation (PSIEC) has formed women self-help groups and cooperatives to sell directly and make more profits.
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The Patiala Handicraft Workshop Cooperative Industrial Society
The Patiala Handicraft Workshop Cooperative Industrial Society Ltd (Society for rural women empowerment) has been registered under the society registration (Registration No.1637) act 1860 with registrars of firms and societies (Punjab). AIM Society aims at making rural women independent by creating craft centers. Women that are enrolled by the society are taught several stitched and handloom work before being asked to undertake embroidery and stitching work for the society. The society also offers courses to women of the weaker section and has trained more than 10,000 women, not only in Phulkari, but other vocations as well. At the training centers, women are not only trained to work but are made aware of their rights and are taught marketing skills.
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These groups also help the govt. to know the Census of:
-Population -Education -Unemployment SELF - HELP GROUP (SHG) Self-help group is organized by policy of government. It is a small group formed to help the members of the group and to spread awareness in terms of education, culture, craft development, environment and provide loan. These groups also help the govt. to know the Census of: -Population -Education -Unemployment Consists of women because: Women only limited to their household responsibilities -Easily adapt to changes -Good at saving -Their knowledge and education helps in the growth of entire family
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The core activities of the society deals with upgrading the technical skills and design abilities of the artisans by conducting workshops and training programs. By working with the traditional crafts of Phulkari and making commercial viable products, the idea is to create a demand in national and international markets. About 880 Phulkari artisans are a part of this cluster. At least 500 workers are depending on full and part time basis upon this industry. The workers are mainly from the local community. Presently, cluster is mainly controlled by the big traders who are engaged in field of Phulkari and operates from Patiala, Rajpura, Chandigarh, etc. The society activities aims to build self reliance among the women to push them to setup their own enterprise eventually and become self employed.
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Develops sense of saving
BENEFITS OF SHGS Group formation helps in development of individual abilities of the members. Develops sense of saving Through shg banking the rate of interest is low Develop mutual understanding SHG helps socializing and developing sense of decision making NABARD, SIDBI, SJSY support and help SHG.
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Main Objectives: Revival of Phulkari Art(Manufacturing Unit)
Conducting Women Entrepreneur Development Programme (WEDP) / Rural Entrepreneur Development Programme (REDP), Supplier to Govt. Phulkari Emporium, Participating In National/International Exhibitions Making Self-Help-Groups Consultancy Work related to Design Industry Cluster specialization/Guidance Cluster Development Activities Design Work Working as Implementing Agency Training / awareness for Health Programme Upliftment of Rural Technology Conducting Training Programme on Food Processing Provide Training to rural people with the collaboration Govt. Departments Developing new concepts of various techniques for traditional designs as free hand sketches and drawing Production of new commercial design concepts Conducting workshop for upliftment of weaker section of local areas Providing more work and employment of artisans of local market
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TRAINING PROGRAM: Training Program to NIFT, NIIFT Pearl Fashion Academy NIFD, Indian Institute of Craft and Design (A College of Design Management & Technology). OTHERS: Provide training programs to various Institutes, rural women and women entrepreneurs Impart craft training program to poor section in rural and urban areas to more than 10,000 students Conducts many workshop at many Public Schools on best out of waste and designing under recycling project
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Chairperson Mrs. Rakha Mann is a founder chairman of TPHWCIS Ltd. and was also the Director of the Punjab State Industrial Cooperative Federation, Chandigarh from Mrs. Rekha Mann was Awarded with the Mahila Excellence in 1996 IMM NABARD Award for Rural Women
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SOCIAL IMPACT Presently Phulkari is known at the International level, therefore there is a need of more research in this direction. Being a village industry, almost 2 lakh women are associated with this activity in the state, presently. Out of total Phulkari artisans, at least 90% artisans are women Estimated literacy rate in the cluster is 65% who have gone up to school level. Benefit of higher education found to be more than 35%. Family members who include wife and children shared about 45% of the work. It has been found that most of worker have more than 6 member in the family. Estimated household income ranges from 11 to 13 thousand per annum The trained artisans after taking training of the modern designs and techniques of the craft can stand in a position to self- employ themselves, as there is a big demand for the products in the national and international market. Our society proposes to give job to the artisans by providing them with raw material and considerable compensation of wages for making crafts. Following is the impact of SFURTI.
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THANK YOU
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