1. Fibre Textile Identification
Textile Finishing Technology
SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
Kelas X Semester 1 dan 2

2. Vocasional Basic Competence
Explain the process of identification of textile fibers
Identify the textile fiber with the burning test
Identify the textile fibers with a microscope test
Identify the textile fiber with the solubility test
Determining grade fiber textile
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3. Introduction TEXTILE FIBRE NATURAL FIBRE MAN MADE FIBRE
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4. Animal Fibre (protein)
Natural Fibre
Vegetable fibre
Animal Fibre (protein)
Mineral fibre
Beans fibre(cotton,Kapok )
Jute
Rosella
Rami
Staple(wool,hair)
filament(Silk)
Asbes
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5. MAN MADE FIBRE Organic Anorganic Syntetic polymer Natural polymer
Glass
metal
Viscosa Rayon
Cupramonium Rayon
Acetat rayon
Triasetat rayon
Polinosic
Condensation
Adition
Nylon
polyester
Polyhydrokarbon
Substitution of Polyhydrokarbon and halogen
Substitution of Polihidrokarbon and hidroksil
Substitution of Polihidrokarbon and nitril
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6. Staple
Filament
LENGTH FIBRE
Tow
monofilament
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7. Fibre characters Physical properties Chemical properties Staple length
Tenacity
Elongation and elasticity
Dye ability
Crimp and convolution
Fibre count
Maturity
colours
Chemical properties
Storage resistance
Bacteria resistance
Chemical resistance
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8. Cotton
Is a vegetable fibre obtained from the mature capsule of the cotton plant, a shrub about 40 cm high, with leaves and flowers of a red or yellow colour.
When the flower is fecundated it loses its petals and within 25 days a capsule surrounded by a leaf called bract grows.
The capsule is sustained by a cup and has a drop shape rounded at the lower extremity.
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9. Inside the capsule there are from five to eight seeds on which the fibre developed.
When the capsule is mature it opens into four parts showing the cotton ball. On the same plant the maturation of the capsules does not occur simultaneously, therefore more passages are required for the harvest of the cotton.
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10. The harvest is carried out a week after maturation.
The first operation after harvesting is husking, which permits the removal of the fibres from the seeds. Then the cotton is carded and combed so as to eliminate all the impurities fibers is the seed average.
Staple length = 1/8" - 2.5" ( cm) -  for manufacturing yarns, fabrics, 7/8" - 11/4" ( cm) is standard.
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11. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

12. Cotton properties Teknologi dan Rekayasa Specific gravity 1.54
Strength (Tenacity)
g/d  (cotton is 20% stronger when wet) fiber elongation is almost linear to the stress imposed
Elasticity
Relatively low
Absorbency and Moisture Regain
7-8% at standard conditions
Birefringence
0.046
Dielectric constant
Resistivity
Order of 109 ohm/cm3
Micronaire
(upland cotton)
Denier
(upland cotton)
Length
in (upland cotton)
Diameter
Coefficient of friction
0.25 (for raw dry cotton, otherwise strongly changes for treated and/or wet fiber)
Thermal Properties
Decomposes when exposed at the temperatures about 300oF
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13. The overall contents are broken down into the following components.
80-90%          cellulose
6-8%              water
%         waxes and fats
%         proteins
4 - 6%            hemicellulose and pectins
%         ash
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14. Jute fibre
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15. Rami fibre
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16. Silk
Silk is produced by the larvae of a variety of insect and spiders of the phylum Arthopoda.
Larvae that produce fibres suitable for commercial exploitation as textiles derive from the order Lepidoptera of the class Insecta.
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17. The African silks derive from the wild, such as anaphe
The most usefull silks are from the protein secretions of the Bombycidae family.
The include the domecticated moth (Bombyx mori), subfamily Bombycinae, the wild chinese tussah moth (Antheraea mylitta)
The African silks derive from the wild, such as anaphe
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18. Silk
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19. silk
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20. Life Cycle of the Silk
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21. Tenacity (gram/denier)
fibre
On wet
On dry
Cotton
3,8
4,8
Rami
6,7
8,7
Flax
6,6
8,4
Wool
1,3
0,8
Silk
4,5
3,9
Rayon
1,7 – 5,0
1,0
Asetat
1,1 – 1,5
Nylon
8,8 – 4,3
7,4 – 3,6
Dacron
7,5 – 4,5
Glass
6,4
5,8
Orlon
2,5
Acrilan
2,7 – 2,0
2,0
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22. Dye ability Moisture Content Moisture Regain MC = Bn – Bk x 100% Bn
Bn = real weight
Bk = absolute weight of fibre
MC = Bn – Bk x 100% Bn
MR = Bn – Bk x 100% Bk
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23. Textile Fibre dye abilitiies
Dye ability(%)
Wool 15
Viscosa rayon 11
Silk
Cotton 8
Flax 12
Accetate rayon 6
Nylon
4,5
Polyester 4
Kupromunium rayon 13
Fibre glass
Orlon
1,5
Acrilan
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24. Elongation at break fibre Elongation (%) Cotton 6,7 Flax 2 Wool
25 – 35
Silk 20
Rayon
9 – 12
Polyacetat 25
nylon
16 -28
Dacron
25 -36
Glass
Orlon
20 – 28
acrylan 35
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25. Fibre Identification of Textile
Burning tester
Microscopic
Solubility tester
Grade / quality
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26. Burning tester of fibre textile
Purpose
Observe flame, melting and odor
Tools
LPG is good fuel
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27. Working process
Fiber that will be made approximately equal to 10 threads Ne1 with long cm and is torsion. Example of fiber in the near side of the fire Observe the flame, the smell and residue burning
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28. Result : Blame ability of natural fibre
burned/un
burned/melt
Odor of burning
Ash
Conclusion
Easly to burning
Paper burned smell
Grey and smooth
Cotton
Rami
Hair burned smell
Grey and crushed
Wool
Hair burned smile
Silk
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29. Result : Blame ability of syntetic fibre
Burned/unburned/melt
Odor
Ash
Conclusion
Melt and burned
Chemical burned smell
hard, circular, grey
Polyester
Hard, brown
Polyamida
Easly to burning
Paper burned smell
Grey and crushed
Rayon viskosa
Acetic acid smell
Hard, black
Rayon asetat
Melt
Yellow-brown
Poliakrilat
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30. Microscopic Purpose Observe cross section of textile fibre Tools
Description: 1. Statif 7. Objective lens 2. Tubus 8. Revolver 3. Object table 9. Diaphragm 4. Screws macro 10. Condenser abbe 5. micro screw 11. Mirror 6. lens okular  
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31. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

32. Materials
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33. Preparations Cross section preparation
Put fibre on the glass/ preparat
Closed with objective glass and drops
Medium that can be used: water, mineral oil, glycerine, shellac or other substance
Longitudinal section preparation
Stopple methode
Mikrotom (manual)
Mikrotom (elektrical)
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34. Cross section of nature fibre
Cotton cross section
Flax stem cross section
Cropsi.ncsu.edu
Img.tripatlas.com
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35. Cross section of animal fibre
Cross section of raw silk
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36. Cross section of wool
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37. Cross section of man-made fibre
nylon
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38. Making slices cut crosswise method stopple
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39. Solubility Tester Purpose Observe solubility of textile fibre Tool
clock glass Spatula
Convex clock glass
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40. 1. Sulphate acid 60% 7. Sodium hydroxide 10%
Chemical
1. Sulphate acid 60% 7. Sodium hydroxide 10%
2. Sulphat acid 70% 8. Sodium nitrate concentrated
3. Aceton Sodium hydroxide 45%
4. Chloride acid 1:1 10. metil salisilat
5. Formiat acid 11. Dimetil formamida
6. Hypochlorit 12. meta cresol
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41. Textile Fibre Solubility1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Conclusion LS L TL
COTTON
RAMI
WOLL
SILK
POLYESTER TS
POLYAMIDA
VISCOSA RAYON
ACETATE RAYON
POLYACRILYC
Detail L = dissolved
TL =not soluble
LS = partly dissolved
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42. Grade
Fibre impurities
Colour
Preparation
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43. Fibre impurities consists of the dried leaves, branches, stem bark, rind, seeds, grass, dust and oil
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44. Colours
The color of the fibers is affected by climatic conditions, impact of insects and fungi, type of soil, storage conditions etc.
There are five recognized groups of color: white, gray, spotted, tinged, and yellow stained.
As the color of cotton deteriorates, the processability of the fibers decreases.
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45. PREPARATION Preparation is the classer's interpretation of fiber processability in terms of degree of roughness or smoothness of ginned cotton.
Preparation is a good degree of separation from the nep and nap. Good results is that the thread is smooth and flat
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46. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

47. Reference
Soeprijono,dkk., Serat-Serat Tekstil, Institut Teknologi Tekstil, Bandung, 1974
Soenarto, Teknologi Pencelupan dan Pencapan Jilid 1, Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan, Jakarta, 2008
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48. SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
Thanks for your attention
SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
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