1. Braiding and Braid Extensions
Chapter 18
Braiding and Braid Extensions
2016 Edition

2. More important the person, the more elaborate the braids were
Origins in Africa
Different styles
~ social status
More important the person, the more elaborate
the braids were
Amyhairbraiding.com

3. Today
~ signals self-esteem and self-image
Africa
~art form
~ handed down from generation to generation
Investment of time
African cultures
~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships

4. Historically first highly decorative braids
Historically first highly decorative braids were seen in African tribes
However:
3000 BC-Egyptian women wore
braids and plaits with shells/beads
Ancient women from India
wore heavy braids
100 AD Anasazi (American Southwest) and Native Americans favored braids

5. Today
~ salons practice “natural hairstyling”
No chemicals or dyes (Henna/Metallic Salts)
~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern
For people of all ethnicities
Diverse approach to hair care

6. With proper care
~ can last up to three months
~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health of the hair
Investment in time and money is high
Detailed consultation
~ ensures a happy ending
Fill out client intake form
~ update every appointment

7. Hair Analysis
Consultation:
~ condition of hair and scalp
~hair type and texture
~curl configuration
~scalp abrasions
~hair thinning or balding

8. Braiding and Textured Hairstyling Consultation:
consists of
Hair and scalp analysis
Texture determination
Elasticity and porosity test
Style determination
Product recommendations
Diameter
~ coarse, medium, or fine

9. Feel
~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry
Wave pattern (coil configuration)
~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

10. Coil ~ very tight curl ~ spiral in formation ~ when stretched,
resembles loops
“Textured hair”=
tight coil pattern
Manandchic.blogspot.com

11. Density
~ where hair is thin
Condition
~ damage and breakage
Length
~ physically long enough

12. Style determination
~after analysis
~braid style that complements client’s lifestyle
~best for hair texture
~what interests client

13. Product recommendation
~how to maintain-shampoo, conditioner, moisturizing
~daily/weekly instructions
~sulfate-free/antibacterial shampoos
~leave-in conditioners
~essential oils/shine sprays
Scalp health
~healthy and properly cared for

14. Porosity and Elasticity
~determines the strength of the hair
* extreme thin areas-braid thickness will be different
*check for any alopecia
~handled differently (technique)
*damaged hair should not be braided
*thinner, finer hairlines-no tension

15. Most braids are appropriate
Page 539
Oval Face
Most braids are appropriate
Elongated Face (oblong)
Width at sides
Hairweb.org

16. ***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look High on top
Round Face
Add height
***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look
High on top
*secured below the crown in back
Hairbytowanda.com
Pabeautystation.co.uk

17. Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face
Square face
Longer braids to frame the face
Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face
Bangs that sweep across forehead
***Fullness at chin

18. Triangular (Pear) Face
Bring braids forward at chin line
***Diamond Face
***Bang
Narrow sides
Fullness at chin

19. Did You Know? Page 531
*Natural hairstyling includes: Pennsylvania Code
-twisting
-wrapping
-weaving
-extending
-locking
-braiding
-application of heat (blow dryer, straightening comb/ceramic iron)
*some states-Pennsylvania
- “natural hair braider license”
(Washington DC-locktician license)
*cannot perform chemical or haircutting services

20. Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush) ~ stimulates scalp
Tools for Braiding
Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush)
~ stimulates scalp
~ removes dirt and lint
Square paddle brush
~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls
~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance
*prevents breakage in fragile hair
Cherrybrook.com

21. ~ gently to remove tangles
Vent brush
~ gently to remove tangles
~ wet or dry hair
Use on human hair extensions
Check tips
~ even if one is missing/discard
fbi4u.com
Cachebeauty.com

22. Wide-toothed comb ~ teeth width ~ medium to large
Avoid scratching the scalp
Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth
Double-tooth comb
~ separates the hair
~ detangles wet hair
Cosmeticmarket.com

23. Locking/twist comb
~#55 barber comb
~smaller angled tooth on one side
~large width on other end
~allows textured hair to lock and coil easily in various widths)

24. Tail comb
~ for design parting
~ sectioning large segments
~ opening and removing braids
Finishing comb
~ 8 to 10” in length
~ used while cutting extensions
~ fine/straight hair

25. Cutting comb
~ for small sections
~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer
(cannot do in PA unless licensed Cosmetologist)
Pick with round teeth
~ lifting and separating
*** one in kit

26. Blow-dryer with pick nozzle ~ dries, stretches, and softens Diffuser
~ dries without disturbing the curl pattern
~finishes look without
dehydrating the hair
Folica.com
$187.00

27. ~ creates shape and finished look
Five-inch scissors
~ creates shape and finished look
~ trims bangs (fringe) {cosmetologist}
~ excess extension material
Long clips
~ separates into
large sections
Sleekhair.com

28. Butterfly and small clips
~ separates into various sections
Hooded dryer
~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying
Steamer-hydrate, moisturize, condition with water vapor
Small rubber bands or string
~secure the ends

29. Extensions -Extension fibers-list to follow
Hackle
~ board of fine upright nails
~human hair extensions
~ used to detangle and blend colors
Drawing board
~ flat leather pads with close/fine teeth
~ sandwich the human hair extensions

30. Materials and Extensions
The fibers you use will determine
~ how successful
~ durable the extension will be
Buying new product:
~ buy in small quantities
~ test the fiber on a mannequin first

31. ~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ?
Vogishchic.info
Human hair
~ gold standard
~ imported from Asia
~ little information about the process
~ is it 100% ?
~ deal with suppliers you know and trust

32. Kanekalon
~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality
~variety of types, names, colors, textures
~ some are high-heat resistant
~ durable, soft, less tangling
~ holds up to shampooing and styling
***costs more/better quality
***less shine

33. Madeinchina.com
Tradeeasy.com

34. Nylon or rayon synthetic
~ less expensive
~ varying qualities
~ reflects light/very shiny
~ known to cut or break the hair
~ repeated shampooing=less durable
~ will melt if high heat is applied

35. ~ made of cotton or nylon blend
Yarn
~ made of cotton or nylon blend
~ very inexpensive
~ light, soft, and detangles easily
~ available in many colors
~ matte finish
~ expands when shampooed
* will not slip
~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light

36. Lin
~ wool fiber from Africa
~ matte finish
~ only in black and brown
~ comes in roll
~ any length and size
~ very flammable

37. Yak
~ strong fiber
~ domestic ox –hair is shaved
~ use alone or blend with human hair
~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine

38. Prepare the Hair for Braiding:
Working With Wet or Dry Hair
~ best dry/wet shrinks
~ tension leads to breakage/hair loss
~ wet-allow for shrinkage
~ straight, resistant hair
*coat with wax or pomade
After shampoo-towel dry without rubbing or tension

39. apply leave-in conditioner
use wide-toothed comb/detangling comb
blow-dry the hair
wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used
use large paddle brush
beginning at ends to remove tangles

40. ~ textured hair is
* very fragile/wet and dry
~ blow-drying
*dries the hair quickly
* softens
* more manageable
~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up”
* manipulation of the hair

41. ~ left and right sides woven under center strand
Braid the Hair
Classified
~ visible or invisible
Visible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ underhand technique
~ left and right sides woven under center strand
~used for cornrows
cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com

42. Invisible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ overlapping
~ overhand technique
~left and right strands go over
the middle one

43. Rope Braid
Two strands
~ twisted around each other
~ on one-length or long,
layered hair
~ add to both sides before twisting
***done on dry hair

44. Fishtail Braid
Simple two-strand braid
~ hair picked up from sides
~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other
*** done on dry hair
~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length

45. Invisible Braid
On or off the scalp
With or without extensions
Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade

46. Single Braids
Terms: single, box, individual
~ all refer to free-hanging braids
~ with or without tension
~ either underhand or overhand stitch
~ all hair textures

47. ~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves
Math.buffalo.edu
Subsections
~ square
~ triangular
~ rectangular
~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves
~ moves in any direction

48. Single Braids with Extensions
~ for single braids
* integrated into the natural hair
~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair
~ vital in the finished style
~ must be consistent and
close together

49. During consultation
~ open package
~ verify that color is correct
~ cut to desired length
~ place on drawing board
~ place a heavy object on top
~ allows easy extract
~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand ***next paragraph is “how to”

50. ~ narrow rows of visible braid *lie close to the scalp
Cornrows
Or canerows
~ narrow rows of visible braid
*lie close to the scalp
~ on-the-scalp technique
~ consistent even partings

51. ~ mannequin to practice * speed *accuracy * finger and wrist dexterity
~ worn by men, women, and children
Combination cornrow with single braids in back

52. ~ various lengths and textures
~ elaborate designs
~ skill and creative expression
~ can last several weeks without extensions
~ two months with extensions
~should be removed, shampooed, and conditioned

53. Cornrows with extensions should receive touch ups on individual rows to stay neat and tight
Should be completely removed in 8 weeks to prevent knotting, locking, or thinning

54. Cornrows with Extensions
~ feed-in method
~ built up strand by strand with extension
hair fibers
~ excess extension material
* too much weight on fragile hairline
* leaves an unrealistic finished look
~ correct tension avoids artificial look
*prevents breakage

56. Traditional
~ flat, natural, and contoured
~ partings define the finished style
~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline

57. ~ extension hair
* fills in the base
~ takes longer
~ lasts longer
~ looks more natural

58. When picking up hair
~ directly underneath
~ never comes from another panel
~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part

59. Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension
~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported
~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline

60. Tree Braids
Newer way to add hair for longer looks
Client’s hair is braided along with extension
Finished look shows mostly faux hair

62. Takes about 4 hours
Techniques are still evolving
Many ways to do them.
You can read on if interested in these braids.

63. Senegalese twists
*Synthetic hair

64. Classify Textured Sets and Styles:
Elongates natural frizzy hair
Produces smooth, silky, curls, wavy, and zigzag patterns
Set on wet or dry hair

65. Bantu knot or Nubian knots-
*double strand twisted
around itself
*secured with bobby pins
or elastic bands
Bantu knot-out style-
*knots are opened for wavy, fuller loose curls

66. Braid-out set:
*braiding hair wet or dry
*open the braid
*create crimped texture-on-texture effect with volume
Flat-twist:
*parted in several rows
*divide section into two
*twisted and interwoven to lie flat on scalp
*varying patterns
*with or without tension

67. Glamour waves:
*flat-twist set first
*hair completely dry
*untwist and open for
wavy texture
Spiral rod set:
*use rods, flex-rods, curl reformers
*wrap vertical on rod and in a
spiral movement
*dry hair completely-
if not, frizz

68. Coil Styles
Coils or comb twists:
Small sections
Gelled and spiraled with comb or fingers
Create tight, cylindrical coils
Use for Nubian coils or to start locks

69. Coil-out
After comb coiled
Dried completely
Uncoil or neatly unravel
Creates a coily textured Afro
Afro-popular in 1960’s and 70’s
*wore hair natural
*in a round fashion (shape)

70. Twist Styles
Also known as double-strand twist
Wet, gelled, or dry hair
Two sections-overlap-creates a rope effect
Can be done on all natural and artificial hair
Then set on rods (ends or entire loc)
Set vertically

71. Twist-out
Unravel the twist
Add fullness and a crimped effect
Do twist on wet, gelled hair
Any size or length
Hair is dried, twists are opened
Finger combed
Creates a textured, voluminous Afro

72. Locks
Or dreadlocks or locs
~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together
~ without chemicals
~ several slow phases
~ can take six months
to one year

73. To cultivate locks
~ double twisting
~ wrapping with cord
~ coiling
~ braiding
~ or not combing or
brushing

74. Rastafarians of Jamaica ~ natural course will cause it to lock
(Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect)
Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and balance
Magicdragon.org

75. Coil Comb Technique
Early stage
~ while the coil is still open
~ place comb at base of the scalp
* with a rotating motion
* spiraling the hair into a curl
~ comb moves down to the end
~ gives a tight coil
~ excellent on short hair

76. Palm Roll
~ gentlest
~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking
~ apply gel to dampened subsections
~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands
~ roll in a clockwise or
counterclockwise direction

77. ~ move down the coil shaft
Partings are:
~ directional
~ horizontal
~ vertical
~ brick-layered
Decorative designs
Sculpting patterns are
creative options

78. Rastafarian.info
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

79. Braids or Extensions
~ involves sectioning the hair
* single braiding
~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a lock
~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp
~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock

81. Sisterlocks
Instantly locks any textured hair
Uses a special tool\
To achieve a single lock

82. Shaping and grooming takes patience and commitment (clients)
In the beginning, clients must have professional hair shaping and grooming to ensure a good outcome