1. Wigs and Hair Additions
Chapter 19
Wigs and Hair Additions
2016 Edition

2. Important role in fashion
Ancient Egyptians
Ancient Roman women
Eighteenth-century England men
all wore wigs

3. Today:
Either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field
Most clients buy off-the-shelf or Internet

4. Rarely custom fit (not always true)
Opportunities for stylists to cut, color, and care for wigs
Toupees-custom-made and fitted
*Takes years of specialized training
*done in hair replacement centers

5. Range from clip-on hairpieces to elaborately applied extensions
Newest technique-single strands of hair are meticulously hand-tied onto individual strands of clients hair
Requires specialized training ..

6. Each manufacturer has its own attachment method
Take the manufacturer’s class
Inventory can be a hefty investment
Clip-on extensions-demand is high

7. Income ranges from a small amount to
thousands of dollars
Hair-loss clients and medical clients,
(cancer patients) have particular needs
for hair additions

8. Locks of Love-for children
Read: Did You Know?
Locks of Love-for children

10. Human Hair versus Synthetic Hair
Pull a strand of hair from the wig or hairpiece and burn it with a match
Human hair will:
* burn slowly
* gives off a distinctive odor
cancerfairygodmother.com/.../01/vogue-wigs.jpg

11. *extinguishing itself *burn out very quickly
Synthetic fiber will:
* “ball up” and melt
*extinguishing itself
*burn out very quickly
*will give off a slight odor
hottscizzors.com/images/burning.jpg

12. Advantages of Human Hair
Realistic appearance
Greater durability
Same styling and maintenance as natural hair
Can be custom colored, permed
Tolerates heat from a blow-dryer,
curling/flat irons, or hot rollers
List price $

13. Disadvantages of Human Hair
May frizz or lose its curl in humid
weather
After shampooing, hair needs to be reset
Color will fade
Hair will break and split if mistreated

14. Advantages of Synthetic Hair
Strong and durable-Kanekalon
Natural, lustrous look and feel
A great value, less expensive
Style and texture are set into the hair
Very easy for clients to maintain
Shampoo in cold water

15. Cut according to the latest styles
*cut, color, and texture already set
You may need to do some detailing or custom trimming
Colors are limitless
Cheaper wigs are more solid in color
High-end products mixed with many shades/highlights/lowlights for a natural effect
Colors will not fade

16. Disadvantages of Synthetic Hair
Cannot be exposed to extreme heat
Some can handle low heat
Coloring is not recommended
So shiny, may not look natural
If thick, will look unnatural
on a fine-haired client
More natural-looking can be expensive
24.99

17. Pros and cons, you get what you pay for
Quality and Cost
Pros and cons, you get what you pay for
Your success will be determined by the quality of the product itself
cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/103/497/312/p71H.jpg

18. The most expensive wigs are made with human hair
European hair-top of the line
Hair from India
*lengths from 12”-16”
(next page) *naturally wavy
Asia
*lengths from 12”-28”
(next page)*naturally straight
Top picture: Indian Remy Human Hair Lace Wigs

19. Human hair mixed with animal hair
*angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair
*Yak from animals belly and is
purest of whites
Great for fantasy colors-
attracts the teen market,
often used in theatrical
or fashion settings

20. Human hair mixed with synthetic hair (cheapest)
Often half and half
Advantages and disadvantages of both
Good option if best color and texture are chosen for client

21. Ask the manufacturer several important questions when selecting a wig for a client:
Made from human hair, animal hair,
mixture, or synthetic
Is the hair colored
Human hair grading-strength, elasticity,
porosity

22. Cuticle-intact
Turned hair or Remi hair
*cuticles of all hair move in the same direction
*better condition
*easier to work with
*doesn’t tangle easily
*time consuming-increases the cost
Read Focus on

23. Fallen hair
*gathered from a hairbrush
*cuticles move in different directions
~tangles
*Remi refined hair-cuticle partially removed
~will not lock or mat
*Fallen hair less expensive than Remi hair

24. Ask manufacturer:
Is hair tangle free?
*if cuticle has been removed
*cannot condition-will mat
Condition of the hair?
Will it match client’s hair?
Can it be permed or relaxed?
Will it last 4-6 months-continual use?

25. Wigs
Wigs are an artificial covering
for the head consisting of a
network of interwoven hair
The client’s hair is completely
concealed
Hair piece used to cover the
top or crown of the head

26. Types of wigs
Cap wigs-constructed with elasticized mesh-fiber base
Several sizes
Require special fittings
Are hand-knotted

27. Front edge resembles client’s scalp
Wire support at the temples for a snug fit
Hand tied to conceal the cap edge
Side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for a secure fit

28. Capless wigs-are machine made
Human or artificial hair
Wefts-long strips of hair with a threaded edge- sewn
Ready-to-wear and less expensive
Open points like fish net stockings
Extremely light and
comfortable to wear

29. Capless wigs are healthier-allows the scalp to breathe Cap wig:
*best for extremely thin or no hair
clients
FYI:
Lace wigs
*new
*more comfortable

30. New innovations=more comfortable
Lace front wigs
*natural-looking hairline
Wigs are now well designed and fashionable
Bought off-the-shelf for immediate wear

31. Methods of Construction
Hand-tied or hand-knotted wigs made by *individual strands of hair into mesh
*knotting them with a needle
Done around the front hairline and the
top of the head
Has a natural, realistic look
Combed in almost any direction

32. jazzyhairfactory.co.uk/images/hand%20tied%201.jpg
farm2.static.flickr.com/1167/ _7a25fe...

33. $249.00 $105.00 Hand-tied synthetic wig
Machine made-notice length difference
$  
Jordon - Handtied Synthetic Wig - Estetica Designs #123

34. Combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair
Semi-hand-tied wigs
Combination of synthetic hair and
hand-tied human hair
Reasonably priced
Natural appearance
Good durability
Picture is 50% human hair

35. Machine-made wigs
Least expensive
Even after shampooing the style returns
Disadvantage: Restricts other styling options
Wig construction will determine the
direction in which you style the hair
Machine-made wigs offer no versatility
Read Focus on

36. Taking Wig Measurements
Use soft tape measure
Close to the head without pressure
Keep a written record of head measurements
* forward a copy to the wig dealer of manufacturer
Include: hair shade, quality of hair, length
of hair, and type of hair part and pattern

37. Adjustable Ready-to-wear *no measuring is needed

38. Ready-to-wear still needs to be adjusted to the head
*custom styled or trimmed
*important to chose proper size
for maximum comfort and security
*most common-average size
*amount of hair may affect the size
*sizes-petite, average, large

39. Measuring the Head
Flatten hair down with a brush
Lay tape measure gently around the head
Wigs should settle on the natural hairline

40. Measure:
Head circumference: around the head
*Circumference = ________inches
*most wigs can be adjusted 1-1 ½”
Front to nape: length of head
*Front to nape = ________inches
Ear to ear: top of one ear, over crown, to top of other ear
*Ear to ear = _______ inches

41. Block is a head shaped form Canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam
Blocking the Wig
Block is a head shaped form
Canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam
Secured for fitting, cleaning, coloring, and styling

42. Use swivel clamp
Most wigs are cut and finished on the client
Then cleaned and stored on a drying rack
***Demo: Pin with T-shaped pins at:
*Temples
*Above the ear
*Each corner of the nape

43. Instructing the client *securing her hair under the cap *flat and even
Putting on the Wig
Instructing the client
*securing her hair under the cap
*flat and even
***Use hair wrap or PIN CURLS
If wig does not fit properly-too large
*horizontal or vertical tuck and sew
Sewing the wig to create a customized fit
is a highly specialized art

44. Your goal-make the hair look more realistic Taper the ends
Cutting the Wig
Your goal-make the hair look more
realistic
Taper the ends
The more solid, the more unnatural
Same sectioning and elevations as on a
real head of hair
Cut free-form on dry hair

45. Wig should be cut while on the client
Comb-out and finishing touches-done on
the client’s head
Free-form cutting
Vertical sections
*create lightness
Diagonal sections
*create rounder beveled edges
Horizontal sections *build heavier weight

46. Cutting small sections
*observe how the hair falls
Done on dry hair
See how the hair will fall
Practice on inexpensive wigs
Razor, thinning shears, standard shears
*tapering methods only

47. Styling the Wig
Work with the total person-not just the head
Check for balance and proportion
Handle gently
Human hair, set the styling tool on low heat
Do not pull
Use synthetic brushes that have smooth,
rounded plastic teeth

48. Be gentle
Use a block for all coloring, perming,
setting, and basic cut outlining
Finishing touches-on the client’s head
Making a wig look believable is very challenging
Truly an art form

49. Most convincing area
*crown, part and the hairline
General rule:
*follow the direction of the knotting
and weave

50. Styling Tips for the Hairline
Styling products-for color-treated hair
Backcomb gently around the hairline
Release the client’s hair around the hairline
Wind test
*gently blow dry around the client’s
set at cool and low
*observe how the hairline looks

51. *do not make it look perfect *use your hands
Styling:
*do not make it look perfect
*use your hands
*do not plaster the hair down

52. Cleaning the Wig
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions
Use gentle shampoo for color-treated hair
or specially developed for wigs
Avoid harsh/dandruff shampoos
Soak, gently squeeze the wig, plac on drying rack

53. Coloring Wigs and Extensions
Synthetic haircolors
*standardized 70 colors
Color range from black to palest blonde
White Yak hair add fantasy colors
To custom-color the hair
*check with the manufacturer

54.
fabulouslacewigs.net/Color-chart.jpg

55. The principles that guide the coloring of
The principles that guide the coloring of natural hair are applied to the art of coloring wigs and hair extensions
Check to see if the cuticle is intact
If absent
*very porous
*will react to color in an extreme manner
Always strand test

56. Use semi-permanent, demipermanent,
glaze, rinse, or colored mousse products
Use permanent haircolor on human hair
wigs unless hair is porous, then semi- permanent is better
Color checks every 5-10 minutes
Remember: hair did not come from one head
*may be unpredictable

57. Perming the Wigs and Hair Additions
Human hair only
Do not perm hair if it has been colored
with a metallic dye
Performed off of the client’s head
Cover head form with plastic
Pin the wig securely
*perm as you would a normal head of hair

58. Know the Different Types of Hairpieces
Hairpieces-hair additions
Sit on top of client’s head
Attached by temporary methods
Many different types:
*integration pieces, toupees,
fashion hairpieces

59. Fashion hairpieces include:
*falls, half wigs, wiglets, chignons, bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs, and fillers (add volume to fine hair)
Newest fashion hairpieces simply clip on
*pressure-sensitive clips, claw clips, or combs

60. Client’s hair prepared
*ponytail or bun
*French twist
blended with or serve as a base

61. ***Temporary attachments methods include:
*interlocking combs
* flexible wire combs
* elastic
*claw clips
*Velcro

62. ***Too much hair *looks out of balance ***Ill-fitting
*negative attention
jay3arr.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/hoops_wei...

63. Integration Hairpieces
Opening through base
*client’s hair pulled through
Lightweight
Natural-looking
Add length and volume
Thinning hair-not total hair loss

64. Small wig used to cover the top and crown
Toupees
Small wig used to cover the top and crown
of the head
Severe hair loss
Two ways to attach:
temporary-tape or clips
semi-permanent
*weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing

66. $437 Wearers gain confidence Authentic-looking hairpiece
*pay a high price for it
$437

67. Fashion Hairpieces
Special occasions
*fashion accessory
Vary in size
Attached with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby pins, or elastic

68. Three attachment methods:
Wraparound ponytail-covers 10-20% of the head
Useful for the client who can just get her own hair into a ponytail
Cascading Curls-cascade of curls is
attached with combs
Hair wrap is mounted on an elastic loop, secured to client’s own hair with hairpins

69. Study the World of Hair Extensions
Hair additions that add length, volume, texture, or color
Can be human hair, synthetic hair,
or a blend
Wefts of hair attached one-by-one
usually pre-bonded or keratin-tipped
unless clip-in extensions-applied with semipermanent attachment methods

70. Manufacturers offer training
General guidelines:
Decide-length and thickness
Map out final style
Stay 1” away from:
*hairline-front, sides, nape, and part
Very thin hair-be careful base does not show through

71. Curly hair-match or add another curl pattern
Thin hair-may not need as many
Extension methods include:
*braid-and-sew
*bonding (fusion bonding)
*linking
*shrinking
Most important approaches should be practiced in the following order: Read 1-4
Read Focus on

72. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Method
Secured by sewing
Attached to an on-the-scalp braid (cornrow)
*track
Wefts can also be attached by creating a track,
using fiber filler
*filler and hair are braided together
~underhand braiding technique
~creates longer lasting braid

73. The angle of the track will determine how the hair will fall
Tracks: horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, or along curved lines
Partings are determined to the style
Size of sections by the amount of hair that will be added
Plan so the ends are hidden
*1 inch behind the hair line

74. When sewing, use only a blunt,
*custom-designed needle
*either straight or curved
Blunt ends help avoid damage to the hair/client

75. Extensions can be sewn to the track using a variety of stitches
Lock stitch
*curved needle and thread
*sew weft to the track
*entire length/evenly spaced

76. Overcast stitch
*pass needle under both track and the weft
*bring it back
*repeat the stitch
*complete with a lock stitch for security
Double lock stitch
*thread is wound around the needle twice

77. Advantages:
*if done correctly-very safe technique
*requires no special equipment
*with practice-fairly quick

78. Drawbacks:
*too much tension-client’s hair can be damaged
*not appropriate for-extremely damaged hair and baby-fine hair, or clients that don’t keep their scalps clean

79. Bonding Method
wefts or single strands with an adhesive or a bonding agent
*adhesive applied with an applicator gun
*not the kind available in
craft stores!!!
A special tool created
specifically for bonding

81. Bonding-wefts with adhesive:
Natural hair should be at least
4 inches long
Sits snugly on the head
Fast to apply
Lasts from 2 to 4 weeks
Can shampoo/done gently
Salon visits as often as every 2 weeks
***Sticky backing-peel, stick to hair- lasts 4-7 days

82. Not in Book!!!!
Bonding procedure-section off hair at the nape
Measure the weft against the parting ¼”
to ½” from the hairline
Lay weft on flat surface and carefully
apply adhesive
along the base

83. Use a consistent amount of adhesive; too much
Use a consistent amount of adhesive; too much will ooze onto the head; too little will not adhere
Lightly press the weft against the clean partings
Hold 20 seconds
Use a blow-dryer on low to medium heat to help seal the bond
Proceed to the next section, working upward on the head until the desired length and volume are achieved

84. Avoid working too close to the crown or the partings
***Caution: do not glue the scalp!!!!
Work 1 inch away from the hairline
Mrs. Mandato prefers to cut the wefts into 2”
sections and glue them in at a staggered
(checkerboard) pattern, looks more natural
and all of the weight of the weft is not pulling
on the hair in the same place

85. In Book
Removed by dissolving the adhesive
with oil or bond remover
Same technique can be used
with loose hair or wefts cut
very small (called strand bonding)

86. Advantages:
Affordable pricing
Complete service around average haircut appointment (20 minutes)
Shampooed gently

87. Disadvantages:
Some clients may have allergic reaction to bonding adhesive
Perform patch test
Not appropriate for severely damaged hair or do not have enough natural hair to hide the wefts
Cannot be exposed to oils-slide off
Should not attach wefts longer than 12” long

88. Fusion-Bonding Method
Bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from
a special tool
Expensive-time consuming
*no uncomfortable and unattractive attachment sites
Light and comfortable to wear
Moves like real hair

89. Price $450.00 for 18" hair extensions.

91. Easy to maintain
Lasts up to 4 months
Removal is quick and painless
Requires certification training
***Best choice for client’s with fine, limp hair

92. Fusion bonding procedure involves wrapping a
Fusion bonding procedure involves wrapping a keratin-based strip around both the client’s hair and the extension or with a special gun-applicator
Many are pre-tipped or keratin tipped
Natural strands along a parting are selected and then isolated with a hair shield
Not in book:
Extension is positioned under the natural hair and near the base

93. The heating element is applied until the bonding agent is softened
The bond is rolled between the fingers, creating a bead that captures both natural and the extension strand
use a fusion remover when needed
(breaks down the keratin in
the bonding)

94. Advantages: (in book)
Client’s hair will dry more quickly (less bulk than full wefts)
By using slightly different colors-create an illusion of depth or a highlighted effect
Allows for style versatility

95. Disadvantages:
time-consuming
pre-tipped extension are expensive
Read rest of the paragraph

96. Linking Hook is used to pick up small amount of hair
Link is slide on close to scalp with special tool
Then, an extension is inserted into the link
Link is pinched flat with pliers
Removed with a removal tool (pliers)
Extensions can be reused

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98. Natural hair- at least 5 inches long
Advantages:
*styling versatility
*natural hair can be maintained
Disadvantages:
*expensive
*time consuming
*metal links can rust

99. Tube Shrinking
Client’s hair and addition strand are inserted into a tube
Heated to shrink it
Special tools and training

100. Problems can arise:
Caused by stylist or client (not material)
Stylist
*Must follow logical placement pattern
*pay attention to natural growth patterns
*provide complete home care instructions

101. Client:
*follow home care instructions carefully
*keep hair neat and clean
*must return to salon regularly for maintenance

102. Retailing Hair Addition Products
Great retail product
*sell themselves
Substantial income
themeanestmom.blogspot.com/2009/06/manna-at-m...

103. Guidelines:
Identify clients needs
Explain why it’s worthwhile
*features and benefits
*performance and cost
Choose high-quality
Believe in your recommendations
Price services accordingly to your time, materials, and expertise
Work with only the best

104. Work with one or two companies that offer: *human and synthetic hair
*high quality products
*good customer service
*first rate support
*education
~training
~seminars
~videos
Stick with companies that stand by their products

105. Practice, Practice, Practice
exciting, challenging, and lucrative areas
of cosmetology
Become skilled-practice
Help people look good and feel good about themselves
Great satisfaction in
*working with people who have suffered the trauma of hair loss