SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean: Understanding the depositional environments of beachrock Kim Owen Dr. Dan Zwartz Dr. Gavin.

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Presentation transcript:

SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean: Understanding the depositional environments of beachrock Kim Owen Dr. Dan Zwartz Dr. Gavin Dunbar Dr. John Collen

Palmyra Atoll Beachrock SWAN Input methods Results plots Conclusions

(after Collen et al., 2009)

- Representative of paleo-beach environment - Intertidal formation - Bimodal grain size - Coarse sediments in currently low energy environments

862 +/- 74 cal. yrs BP 933+/- 58 cal. yrs BP 845 +/- 76 cal. yrs BP797 +/- 75 cal. yrs BP Modern 644 +/- 46 cal. yrs BP /- 56 cal. yrs BP Cement: 631 +/- 46 cal. yrs BP

INPUT - Bathymetry - Friction - Wave Parameters K. Owen

INPUT - Bathymetry - Friction Factor - Wave Parameters Where r = bed roughness length a =bottom orbital amplitude K. Owen

INPUT - Bathymetry - Friction Factor - Wave Parameters Tolman, 2002: User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III version NOAA / NWS / NCEP / MMAB Technical Note 222, 133 pp. K. Owen

K. Owen

K. Owen

K. Owen

Acknowledgements Victoria University of Wellington, Kathleen Stewart Foundation Scholarship, The Nature Conservatory, U.S. Fish and Wildlife, Dan Zwartz, Gavin Dunbar, and John Collen