The use of Electronics and Weaving Dr. Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning Objectives Advantages of electronics in weaving Computer CAD and fabric design The new role of textile designer and CAD system

Computer and Fabric mills The use of electronics is being increasing used into the weaving process. Can you name some of them? Technicians are able to sit at a keyboard away from the looms and change settings, patterns (weave) and weft (colour) selections., The loom functions, such as warp letoff (deliver warp yarns), opening and closing of air jet valves, and the loom stoppages, can be monitored. Information can be sent quickly to loom fixers for corrective action.

CAD and Textile Designer Formerly, a fabric designer would sketch out a weave design on point paper. A painter would copy the design onto a piece of hardboard. A painted sample with the precise colours was sent to mill from the design studio, where a sample would be woven and submitted for customer approval. Any changes of colour or pattern would be very time consuming (takes weeks) since another sample would have to be made and resubmitted for approval. Today, the design would be made in several hours and the colour pattern shown on the screen (with million of colours). Speed allows more generation of design ideas.

CAD and Fabric Design Colour-and-weave effect, Yarn design are simulated by CAD

CAD and Fabric Designer (2) The use of the computer allows the textile designer to work directly with the consumer. Any changes in colour or pattern can quickly be accomplished. The paper copy that is finally approved will have a remakable similarity to the fabric to be made. The designer can choose the type of yarn (tightness of twist or thickness) as well as the surface (smooth or brushed, slightly blurred look).

Repeated section arrangement by CAD system

Yarn Hairness on Fabric Design by CAD system

CAD and customer A customer can bring samples of a desired pattern, a scanner can be used to input the pattern into the computer. It can be shown on the screen in colour within minutes. The first pattern can be manipulated to produce variations in a very short time.

CAD and Garment Designer The garment designer can also use the computer system. He/she can draw the garment on the screen. When the garment is completed and approved, any pattern of fabric stored in the computer can be displayed on the garment. The garment can be displayed on a model, with the computer simulating draping, shadowing and light pattern changes to create a realistic 3-D form. A printout can be produced for distribution to customers, sales personnel or management.

Color-and-weave Effect (2) Graph paper may be used to show a colour and weave effect. The squares are marked with the colour of the yarn interlaces over. If a black warp and green weft interlace with the weft over, the square is filled in green. If the warp yarn passes over the weft, the square is filled in black. When completed, the result is not the weave, but the pattern produced by the different-colour yarns with the given weave.

Fabric swatch is mapped into a model to create 3-D appearance Same style with different colourway by CAD system

Discussion What are the changes for the role of fabric designer with Woven CAD system? Discuss the features of Woven CAD system for fabric design?