History of the Kimono in Japan By Intan Putra

Kofun Period (300 to 550 A.D.) Also known as the Yamato period, cultural influence from mainland Asia introduced Buddhism and the basic civilization to the Japanese Island. * The first silk kimono were made during this time. The idea of silk farming came was introduced by China. * The kimonos of this time were always white, this is due to the fact that Japan had not yet developed dying processes. * The kimonos most primitive and first true kimonos came from this era. They came in two pieces, an over part, and an under part.

Nara Period ( A.D.) During this period, the strong Chinese influence was becoming distant to the Japanese and developed their uniqueness. Although he kimono of this time was still based mostly on Chinese influenced garments. * The interesting features of the kimono in the Nara period include – The upper garment’s overlap went from right to left, compared to today’s style which is reversed. And the right to left is used for the diseased. * Processes for the dying of a kimono were developed during the Nara era. The basic kimono still consists of one solid colour, and what is not yet existent were the fancy patterns, as resistance- dying was not yet developed in this era. * Around this age the Kimono become quite the status symbol. Different ranking court members would wear different coloured kimono’s and this was to signify their separate ranks.

Heian Period ( A.D) The Heian Period created the thought of the kimono as a art form and from then on they were no longer seen as a simple piece of clothing, but a new dying processes and an appreciation of art and beauty. The kimono’s created in the Heian era, are still used today in the Japanese royal court for formal ceremonies. * The type of kimono, “juni-hito” or twenty-layer, this is the most intricate of Heian era kimono had as many as twenty layers of fabric and is the most formal kimono, which is still used today. * The tale of Genji was written o 1000 A.D. The book describes the laddies-in-waiting in the court, and the different types of clothing these laddies wore on an every day basis. * During this period the first rise of modern fashion sense evolved and it was considered to be bad taste when the colours of the kimono did not match with the season.

Edo Period ( A.D) Named after the capital of Japan, the Edo Period later became the modern-Tokyo. During this period of time the first of the ‘resist-dyeing’ process, also known as the yuzem dying was developed. To separate the rulers and upperclassman from the middle class they began enacting rules that would dictate who could wear what. * The disappearance of the juni-hito style happened and the kimono became single-layered once more. * Patterns on the kimono became very popular during the Edo Period thanks to the yuzen dyeing technique. * Actors had a big say when it came to dictating what was popular. The sense of fashion became much stronger during this period and the everyday citizens are more likely to follow a kabuki actor (a form of Japanese theatre, focusng on history and moral conflict).

The Different Styles of Kimono

Juni-Hito Also known as the “twelve layer” Kimono, the juni-hito, originated in the Heian period. These garments are worn till this very day, but mainly by the ruling class only when attending a formal ceremony and they are complex and large. The traditional juni-hito consists of solid colour layers. Every layer of the juni-hito Kimono was said to represent different things, such as the different seasons, the nature, value, the class and status of the personal wearing it.

Juni-Hito

Yukata The “Yukata” has two consists of two meanings, “yu” and “Katabira”, meaning “bath” and “under clothes”. The Yukata is made of cotton and separates it from most kimonos which are made of silk. The yukata is an informal style of a Kimono and is very valued for comfort and functionality in conjunction to a T-shirt and sweat pants in America. It is mainly worn after taking a bath or during the summer season, it is also quite popular with the modern day japan. Women's yukata patterns still focus on flowers and nature, whereas men’s designs are mostly darker and less vibrant. But all in all are a lot more basic then that of a traditional Kimono.

Yukata

Furisode This is the most well known of all the types of kimonos. The long, flowing sleeves an bright, beautiful designs. The furisode is worn by the younger unmarried women, and the swinging sleeves are said to be the attracting of very flirtation behaviour. Around the age of nineteen years of age, women begin wearing furisodes and then as they gradually get older their sleeves get shorter. There is such a kimono where the sleeves are able to reach down to a women’s ankles.

Furisode

Uchikake This is the type of kimono which is worn for wedding ceremonies. Unlike how a western wedding dress would have a “train” the uchikake is long all the way around, this is the traditional style of a uchikake. It is either white or has an arrange of different patterns and is very elaborate. The white uchikake symbolises a wife’s readiness to accommodate to her husband’s household. Throughout the Edo period the three-day weddings consists of the white uchikake being worn on the first day, the read uchikake was to be worn on the second day, seen as a protection symbol by the Japanese, and the most formal black uchikake was worn n the final day of the wedding.

Uchikake