About the 35mm Manual Film Camera Nickie Cardano Greyson Shane Per. 4

Aperture- “lens opening;” adjusts the size of the lens opening- the diaphragm. The smaller the opening, the greater the depth of field. Chapter Two: Camera Parts Shutter- A device that controls the amount of light entering the camera by the length of time it stays open. Aperture Shutter Speed

The Viewfinder- shows you the entire scene that will be recorded on the film and indicates which part of the scene is focused most sharply. Interchangeable Lenses- lets you select the lens focal length, which controls the size of the objects in the picture and the extent of the scene recorded on the film. Chapter Two: Camera Parts

Shutter Release Button The shutter release button opens the shutter and initiates the exposure. Shutter Speed Dial ISO Indicator The ISO indicator allows you to compensate for the “speed” of your film. Aperture Control The aperture control is a ring around the lens with a scale. Film Rewind Knob The film rewind knob is used to rewind the film into the cassette. Chapter Two: Operations

These are the things you should already know how to do with a 35mm camera. Loading Holding the camera Focusing the camera Setting the film speed Activating the light meter Chapter Two: Operations Setting the shutter speed Setting the aperture control Shooting the picture Unloading the film

Depth of Field in an is the area between the nearest and farthest points from the camera that are acceptably sharp image. Chapter Two: Depth of Field

Large Depth of Field Small Depth of Field Chapter Two: Depth of Field

Chapter Three: The Lens A camera lens is an optical lens or assembly of lenses used in conjunction with a camera body to produce images of objects on film. An assortment of lenses

Chapter Five: Light Meter A light meter is a device used to measure the amount of light. It is often used to determine the proper exposure for a photograph.

Chapter Five: Exposure

Chapter Five: Bracketing Bracketing is a technique consisting of taking several shots of the same subject using different camera settings.

1.Development - The developing agent gives up electrons to convert the silver halide grains to metallic silver. Grains that have been exposed to the radiation develop more rapidly, but given enough time the developer will convert all the silver ions into silver metal. Proper temperature control is needed to convert exposed grains to pure silver while keeping unexposed grains as silver halide crystals. 2.Stopping the development - The stop bath simply stops the development process by diluting and washing the developer away with water. 3.Fixing - Unexposed silver halide crystals are removed by the fixing bath. The fixer dissolves only silver halide crystals, leaving the silver metal behind. 4.Washing - The film is washed with water to remove all the processing chemicals. 5.Drying - The film is dried for viewing. Chapter 7: Processing Film NOTE: Processing film is a strict science governed by rigid rules of chemical concentration, temperature, time, and physical movement. Whether processing is done by hand or automatically by machine, excellent radiographs require a high degree of consistency and quality control. When the film is processed, it is exposed to several different chemicals solutions for controlled periods of time. Processing film basically involves the following five steps.

Developing (90 seconds) – -The important thing is to keep things moving, and to keep the print covered with developer. If the print is properly exposed, an image will appear on the face of the print after about 15 seconds. Stopping Development (30 seconds) - - Ten seconds before the ninety seconds of development are up, lift the print from the developer with the developer tongs. Let it drain for 10 seconds, and then place it gently in the stop bath. Agitate the print for 20 seconds. Fixing the Print (5 minutes) - - Lift the print out with the stop bath tongs, let it drain for ten seconds, and then place it into the tray of fixer. Agitate the tray gently, in the same way you agitated while in the developer. Washing the Print (10 minutes) - - Wash the print for at least 10 minutes under constantly running water. To prevent damage to the emulsion, RC paper should not stay wet for more than 20 minutes. Drying the Print - - Squeegee your prints to remove water from the surface. You can then hang them by clips or leave to dry on a drying rack. Chapter 7: Making Prints The Basic Process!

Contrast is defined as the separation between the darkest and brightest areas of the image. Adding contrast usually adds "pop" and makes an image look more vibrant while decreasing contrast can make an image look duller. Here is an example where we add some contrast. Chapter 7: Contrast  As you can see, the white/red spokes have gotten brighter while the background has gotten darker. This causes the image to look more defined.

Density is the measure of darkness, blackening or 'strength' of image in terms of its ability to disperse or absorb light (i.e. its opacity). Chapter 7: Density

1.Pattern 2.Symmetry 3.Texture 4.Depth of Field 5.Lines 1.Pattern 2.Symmetry 3.Texture 4.Depth of Field 5.Lines Chapter 15: Composition- The five basic principles

Shape Lines Color Space Texture Value Chapter 15: Elements Can you tell which is which? CHALLENGE!

Chapter 15: Principles Movement/Rhythm/Pattern Rule of Thirds Balance Emphasis Proportion Variety Unity

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