MSC-132: Introduction, Plain Whipping, Loops, Turns & Hitches This presentation is designed to be used as a study companion to lectures, labs and handouts given in Fishing Gear Technology I. Advance each slide by clicking on the left mouse button. To go back to a previous slide, click the right mouse button and choose “previous” from the menu. Good Luck!

Introduction Proficiency in working with and understanding the uses of various ropes is vital for Marine Technicians to adequately perform their duties. Generally speaking, knots are divided loosely into four classes: –Bends are used to fasten (bend) two ropes ends together. –Hitches are used to secure a rope, either end or bight, to a hook, ring or spar. –Knots are tied with the end of a rope, or on the bight, or upon its own standing part. –Ornamental Knots are practical or decorative knots frequently used at the end of lines or sennits to form stops or grips.

Marlinespike Seamanship Prior to beginning your practice session read the entire handout “Knots, Splices, and Rope”. Understanding the terminology used in handling and tying rope will provide the foundation for discussing, studying and working with ropes. During testing, you will be responsible for tying each individual bend, hitch or knot within 30 seconds.

Overview The key to understanding and developing a “feel” for knot tying is practicing on a regular basis with the intent of the knot fully recognized. Begin by learning the parts of a line or section of rope. Bends Loop Knots Splices Simple Knots Hitches Practice Terms Need Intro.

Always remember the “intent” of the bend, hitch or knot when practicing. Very seldom will you have both ends of the rope in “real life situations”. Practice as if your rope were 60 foot rather than 6 feet. When you were given your practice rope you were shown how to apply a “plain whipping” to one end (next slide). Always use this marker to signify the “working end”. Working End *Indicated by Whipping for Practice. Bitter End *Indicated by NO Whipping for Practice. Standing Part Bight

Plain Whipping: The end of a rope should always be bound or whipped to prevent it from fraying. The easiest whipping to apply is the “plain whipping” although it may undo itself over time. We will show the more reliable “Sewn Whipping” in a future lesson. A whipping should end at least one inch from the end of a rope and the minimum length should be equal to the diameter of the rope on which it is applied. A whipping approximately three times the diameter of the rope or two whippings a short distance apart would be best. A sequential application procedure is shown below and on the following slide Cut a piece of good quality twine (nylon, treated) of an appropriate diameter for the rope you are using. Lay the twine on the rope with the bight toward the end as shown above. Start the procedure of applying recurrent turns toward the bight of the twine (2-3). After completing the length of whipping desired place the working end through the bight (4).

Finishing the Plain Whipping Completed Plain Whipping 1 to 3 times Dia. of rope 1” min. After passing the working end of the twine through the bight, draw up the bight by pulling the other end of the twine (5). Secure the whipping by hiding the bight in the center of the whipping (6). Finish the whipping by cutting both ends of the whipping as close as possible without injuring any twine or rope fibers (7-8). Pull this end to draw up the bight. Working End Bight Bight hidden in center of the whipping.

Loops: Simple loops are important because many knots use a loop as the first step. Cross the working end over the standing part to make an Overhand Loop Cross the working end under the standing part to make an Underhand Loop Overhand LoopUnderhand Loop Position of the standing part and/or working end is a function of use.

Turns: Many knots also use turns as a first step in tying. Turns can also be used independently to control the weight or pull of an object at the other end. Incorrect Jam Turn Correct Working End under the Standing Part Working End over the Standing Part A Turn A Round Turn Direction (over or under) is a function of use

Hitches: Generally used as a speedy, temporary means of fastening to an object with relatively high efficiencies. Single Half Hitch Fairly Reliable: Put the end at the bight of the standing part. These half hitches are untrustworthy unless you seize the end to the standing part. End Standing Part

Two Half Hitches: Serve a variety of purposes such as securing the end of a rope to a ring or spar. Incorrect Note the 2 nd half hitch breaks back against itself creating a larks head not two half hitches. Correctly Tied Note the 2 nd half hitch continues its rotation in the normal direction creating two half hitches.

Round Turn with Two Half Hitches: The round turn which starts this knot is better than a simple turn due to its ability to resist slipping. Round turn was started by passing the working end under the spar. Round turn was started by passing the working end over the spar. Both examples are correct.

Clove Hitch: A quick, simple method of fastening a rope around a post, spar or stanchion. Commonly referred to as the “general utility hitch”. It has a tendency to slip when used at the end of a rope, so allow an ample tag at the end. Correct Clove Hitch viewed from both sides of the post or stanchion Incorrect Quick Check: An incorrect clove hitch will become an overhand knot when the working end is pulled. A correct clove hitch will always retain the clove hitch look.

Rolling Hitch: Superior to a clove hitch on a towing cable or mooring line when the pull on the standing part is along or nearly parallel to the cable or line being pulled. *Note: The pull is in an opposite direction from the half hitch. A sequential tying procedure is shown on the following slide. Correct Rolling Hitch Incorrect Direction of Pull Direction of Pull

Rolling Hitch Sequence : Make a jam turn followed by a second turn in the same direction over the standing part and finish with a half hitch in the same direction Direction of Pull with Standing Pt. Standing Part

Timber Hitch: A simple hitch which does not jam and comes undone readily when the pull ceases. It is used to hoist or tow cylindrical objects. It should be used in conjunction with two or more half hitches which are made with the standing part of the rope after the timber hitch has been completed. A sequential tying procedure is shown on the following slide. Timber Hitch Two Half Hitches Standing Part

Timber Hitch Sequence: Pass the working end of a rope around the cylindrical object and take a turn around the standing part. Then, as shown in photo 2, twist or turn the end back on itself. Three turns are generally sufficient, however larger objects may need more turns. The turns should follow the lay of the rope Working End Roll the half hitches into the standing part and slide them over the cylindrical object. You will not have an end to work with when completing these half hitches. Keep tension on the timber hitch when tying the half hitch. Standing Part Keep tension on hitches Completed Timber Hitch Standing Part

Hook Hitches: You are required to know two different hitches for attaching a rope or line to a hook. The Single Blackwall Hitch consists of a half hitch crossed through a hook. This is a quick, temporary method of handling a light load if the tension is never allowed to slacken. The double blackwall is more secure than the single blackwall hitch Standing Part - Tension should not be allowed to slacken. Working End Correctly Applied Single Blackwall Hitch Standing Part Working End Incorrect Single Blackwall Hitch *Note Working End Over the Standing Part *Note Standing Part Over the Working End Correctly Applied Double Blackwall Hitch

Catspaw: This hook hitch is the one generally tied in a sling or continuous length of rope. Unlike the blackwall hitch, the catspaw can be used for heavy hoisting. To make, take two bights in the rope and twist in opposite directions. Then bring the loops together and pass over the hook Catspaw with load applied on standing part. Catspaw before applying load. Catspaw when used in the middle of a rope with an equal load on each side. Twist both bights equally. Minimum of two twists, more if needed.

Sheepshank: Used for shortening a rope for temporary use or for taking the strain off a damaged section of rope when time does not permit the immediate replacement of the damaged rope. More secure when seized. A sequential tying procedure is shown on this and the following slide. Damaged area of rope or length to be shortened. Roll a half hitch over one of the bights Position the rope Repeat sequence 2 & 3 for the other bight. Bight

The Sheepshank must have a constant strain applied or it could easily become untied. The sheepshank should have a seizing applied whenever possible. Strain Two Different Methods of Seizing a Sheepshank Completed Sheepshank

Cleat Hitch: This hitch-to-cleat procedure is a simple, useful and reliable method to make fast a working line or line end. Start with a turn around the cleat, then go around the cleat so that the line passes under each horn once (more if necessary). Finish with a half-hitch over one horn. You will have many opportunities to practice the cleat hitch under the guidance of your Boat Handling/ Seamanship (MSC-122) instructor Completed Cleat Hitch Vessel

Where to Get More Information Piloting – Seamanship & Small Boat Handling, Chapman, Charles Handbook of Knots, Graumont, Raoul Modern Rope Seamanship, Jarman, Colin & Beavis, Bill Handbook for Riggers, Newberry, W.G. Fisherman’s Workbook, Prado, J. Pocket Handbook of Knots and Splices, Wall Industries Books: Electronic Media: