Nonlinear Long Wave in Shallow Water
Contents Two Important Parameters For Waves In Shallow Water Nondimensional Variables Nondimensional Governing Equation & Boundary Conditions Perturbation Series of Potential Depth Average Horizontal Velocity & Wave Elevation Ariy's Approximation Boussenesq's Approximation Steady Kdv Equation Solitary Wave Cnoidal Wave
Two Important Nonlinear Parameters for Waves in Shallow Water
Non-dimensional Variables
Nondimensional Governing Equation & Boundary Conditions
Perturbation Series for Potential :
Depth Average Horizontal Velocity & Wave Elevation
Ariy's Theory For Very Long & Very Steep Waves
Boussinesq's Approximation
Steady KdV (Korteweg-de Vries) Equation
Solitary Waves
Figure 1. The sketch of a non-dimensional solitary wave train.
Cnoidal Wave
Computation Procedure : When water depth h, wave length L (or T) and wave height H are given, we may use a try and error (or iterative) method to determine m based on Equation (50) (or (53)). Once m is obtained, the characteristics of a Cnoidal wave train can be computed using Equations (47), (48), (49), (51) & (52).