Chapter 5 Color and Weave Effects Introduction: Various colored patterns can be obtained in fabric by combining colored yarns and weaves. See the following Figures in the next page.

Some figures:

Some concepts: Color sequence --- The color arrangements are called color sequence. Color repeat --- The number of a complete color sequence threads is called color repeat. Pattern repeat --- The number of a complete pattern threads is called pattern repeat. It equals the least common multiple (LCM) of the weave repeat and the color repeat.

Arrangement of colored pattern construction: The arrangements are: I : weave Ⅱ : weft color sequence Ⅲ : warp color sequence Ⅳ : colored pattern Fig.5.1 Arrangement of colored patterns construction

5.1 Construction of patterns from a given weave and color repeats Explanation: For all two-tone color and weave effects in this book only The dark colored warp and weft floats are indicated:■ Light colored warp and weft floats are left blank:□

5.1.1 Method of development The patterns are constructed as following steps: 1) Determine the weave, warp colour sequence and weft colour sequence, and calculate the pattern repeat. 2) Draw the weave, warp and weft colour sequence on their location, and fill the weave on colour pattern location with dot marks. In order to see the pattern clearly, more repeats are selected. 3) According to the warp colour sequence, mark the warp floats “■”of the dark coloured ends. And according to weft colour sequence, mark the weft floats “■”of the dark coloured picks.

Example: 1) The weave is 1/1 plain; warp colour sequence and weft colour sequence are both 1A, 1B, (A-light colour, B-dark colour). 2) Draw the weave, warp and weft colour sequence on their location, and fill the weave on colour pattern location with dot marks. See the following Figure

3) Mark the patterns ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ According to the warp colour sequence, mark the warp floats “■”of the dark coloured ends. ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ And according to weft colour sequence, mark the weft floats “■”of the dark coloured picks. See the Figure on the right ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ Finally we get the pattern :

5.1.2 Varieties of weaves and colour effects 1. Horizontal and vertical hairline effects 2. Combined horizontal and vertical hairline effects 3. Figured colour and weave effects

1. Horizontal and vertical hairline effects Steps of development for Horizontal effect : a) Indicate the base weave very faintly b) Indicate the sequence of colours for warping order c) Indicate the sequence of colours for picking order d) Mark the warp lifts (■) of the dark coloured ends e) Mark the weft floats (■) of the dark coloured picks

Warp and weft ■ 1 □ Repeat 2 2 colours in warp and weft

2) Vertical effect 2 colours in warp and weft

2. Combined horizontal and vertical hairline effect 1) Stripe effect 2 colours in warp and weft

2) Check effect 2 colours in warp and weft

3. Figured colour and weave effect 2) Step effects 2 colours in warp and weft twill

2) Dog tooth effect Warp and weft □ 2 ■ 4 repeat 8 Since this figure looks like dog’s tooth so it is called dog tooth effect

3) bird eyes effects From this page we can see the same figured effect can be created with different weaves

Home works: Drawing the following coloured pattern from the given weave and colour repeat. (If it is necessary, you can select more repeat to show the pattern clearly). (1) Base weave plain: warp and weft colour repeat 1 dark (1D hereafter), 1 light (1Lhereafter). ( pattern repeat 8). (2) Base weave: Warp and weft colour repeat, 1 D 1 L

Warp and weft colour repeat are: (3) Base weave: Warp and weft colour repeat are: □ 1 2 ■ (4) Base weave: Warp and weft colour repeat, 1 L 2 D 1 L, (Pattern repeat 8). (5) Base weave: Warp and weft colour repeat: 4L 4D (Pattern repeat 16) (6) Base weave: Warp and weft colour repeat :1 D 1 L (Pattern repeat 12).