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3.2 Twill weave derivatives

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1 3.2 Twill weave derivatives
Variations of twill weaves are many. Twill weave can be modified by extending the floats, changing the shift or both. It has a great potential for the introduction of ornamentation into the fabric.

2 3.2.1 Reinforced twill 1. concept:
Reinforced twill weave is the simplest twill weave derivatives, which can be constructed by adding warp or weft marks beside the original ones. See Fig A B C Fig reinforced twill

3 The reinforced twill is denoted by fraction
The reinforced twill is denoted by fraction. The numerator indicates warp overlaps; and the denominator indicates weft overlaps. The direction of the diagonal line is denoted by arrowhead. e.g. ↗at Fig. A, ↗at Fig. B, ↖at Fig. C.

4 2. Weave drawn Drawing reinforced twill diagram is quite similar to fundamental twill.

5 3. Weaving plan Straight draft is considered first. Skip draft is chosen where the warp density is too high. See Fig Fig skip draft for reinforced twill

6 4. Applications Reinforced weaves are widely used in varied fabrics, such as serge, gabardine, drill, and are also used in selvedges of other fabrics.

7 3.2.2 Compound twills 1. concept:
The compound twill is obtained by constructing two or more parallel twill lines in the same area. It has a fancy diagonal appearance. The compound twill is denoted by fraction. The numerators indicate warp overlaps; and the denominators indicate weft overlaps. The direction of the diagonal line is denoted by arrowhead. See Fig :(A), (B), (C).

8 Fig Compound weaves

9 2. Weave drawing Drawing compound twills are as following steps:
1) Calculating the repeat R: Ro = Ry = numerator +denominator. 2) Drawing the first end according to the fraction given. 3) Drawing the other ends based on the first one and shift (where shift is ±1).

10 3. Weaving plan Straight draft if often employed to weave compound twill Example ↗

11 4. Applications Compound twills are widely used in fancy fabrics due to its interesting appearance. A compound twill sample:

12 Home works: 1. Drawing the following reinforced twill weaves.
2/3↗, 4/3↖, 3/5↗, 4/4↖ 2. Drawing the following compound twill weaves. ↗, ↖, ↖, ↗, ↗, ↗.


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