Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation

“Classic” Preservatives Diazolidinyl Urea Diazolidinyl Urea Quaternium-15 Quaternium-15 Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate Kathon Kathon Parabens Parabens DMDM Hydantoin DMDM Hydantoin Chloroxylenol Chloroxylenol

Common “Non-Conventional” Preservatives Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Acids and salts Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Acids and salts Benzyl Alcohol Benzyl Alcohol Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol

Naturally Derived Antimicrobials

Grapefruit Seed Extract Aka carrier for Triclosan, Benzethonium Chloride, Benzalkonium Chloride

Lonicera (Honeysuckle) Extract Aka carrier for Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Hinokitiol Extracted from Japanese pine tree Extracted from Japanese pine tree $1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural $1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural Effective at 0.01 to 0.05% Effective at 0.01 to 0.05% Broad spectrum Broad spectrum Difficult to dissolve Difficult to dissolve Odor Odor

And Many Others NET-DTB (Barnet) NET-DTB (Barnet) Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br) Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br) GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid blend) GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid blend) Polylysine (Ajinomoto) Polylysine (Ajinomoto) Ethanol Ethanol

Essential Oils Lemongrass Oil Lemongrass Oil Lemon Tea Tree Oil Lemon Tea Tree Oil Tea Tree Oil Tea Tree Oil Lippia Sidoides Lippia Sidoides Origanum Oil Origanum Oil

Vendor Blends of Natural Stuff

Vendor Blends Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol) Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol) Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative) Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative) Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal), Neopein, Suprapein Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal), Neopein, Suprapein

Functional Ingredients that are also Antimicrobial

Emulsifiers

Phospholipids Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride Phosphate) Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride Phosphate) Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl...) – more functional, more irritating Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl...) – more functional, more irritating Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl...) -- new Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl...) -- new

Glyceryl Esters Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Kabarra) Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Kabarra) Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Inolex) Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Inolex) Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Abitec) Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Abitec)

Emollients/Solvents PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE) PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G) Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G) Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O) Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O) Glycine Glycine Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT) Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)

Organic Acids Benzoic (pK 4.19) Benzoic (pK 4.19) Sorbic Sorbic Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne) Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne) Usnic Usnic Tartaric (pK 4.34) Tartaric (pK 4.34) Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11) Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)

Organic Acids pH restrictions pH restrictions pH drift pH drift Irritation Irritation

Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl Alcohol Rose Ether $3.5/kg Synthetic $5/kg Natural $2000/kg

Plant Extracts Microplate MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration)

Microplate MIC Method E.coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%) 100 % Growth Blank GermallLippia

Microplate MIC Method E.Coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%) Colorimetric Dye Resazurin Blank Blank = No Growth (Blue) 100% Growth (Red) GermallLippia

Plant Extract MIC Germall II % Germall II % Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060% Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060% Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084% Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084% Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11% Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11% Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068% Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%

THANK YOU !