©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education1 Electrotherapy Machine Facials
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials2 Electrotherapy Facial treatments using electrical facial machines & small electrical appliances are known as electrotherapy Modalities These are the currents used in electrical facial & scalp treatments. Cosmetologist are concerned with 4 different currents Galvanic Faradic Sinusoidal Tesla High-frequency
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials3 Machine Facials
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials4 Modalities Galvanic current Most commonly used Constant & direct (DC) current Positive & negative pole Producing chemical changes when it passes through the tissues & fluids of the body Two different chemical reactions are possible, depending on the polarity (negative or positive) Avoid galvanic current on certain clients Metal implants, pace maker or heart insufficiency Epilepsy Pregnancy High blood pressure, fever, infection Open or broken skin; pustular acne Fear of electrical currents CAUTION: remember to firmly wrap all electrodes w/ a moistened cotton pledget. Always place passive electrode on right side of client’s body to avoid current flow through the heart
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials5 Modalities Positive Pole ( Anode ) Negative Pole ( Cathode ) Produces acidic reactions Produces alkaline reactions Closes the pores Opens the pores Soothes nerves Stimulates & irritates the Decreases blood supply nerves Contracts blood vessels Increases blood supply Hardens & firms tissues Expands blood vessels Softens tissues
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials6 Application of galvanic current Active electrode used on area being treated Negative pole is the active electrode when negative reactions are desired on the face: forcing negative ions into the skin; opening follicles; liquefying sebum Plug back cord into metal roller or flathead stick electrode This is the electrode used on client’s face; also referred to as a disincrustor Pass electrode Called passive because it is NOT being used on client’s face Client can hold metal stick or cylinder which is always wrapped in a moistened cotton pledget; or you can place wet pad on client’s right upper arm or under right shoulder The electrode is always placed on right side of avoid current flow to heart
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials7 Procedure for Disincrustration The process of softening & emulsifying grease deposits & blackheads in the follicles for easier extraction Active electrode is wrapped in cotton moistened with electrolyte An electrolyte is any compound that conducts a current of electricity; saltwater works well Client holds passive electrode in right hand Or …wet pad is placed on a comfortable spot on right side of client’s body Active electrode (negative polarity) is placed on client’s face & moved slowly over oily areas of face for 3-5 minutes All liquefied sebum is removed from skin before facial continues
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials8 Iontophoresis Comes from the Greek and means “moving ion” The process forces water-soluble products that contain ions deeper into skin with help of electric current Anaphoresis Negative pole ( cathode ) forces negatively charged ions (anions) into skin Cataphoresis Positive pole (anode ) forces positively charged ions (cations) into skin
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials9 Modalities Faradic current Alternating & interrupted current Produce impulses on muscles & force them to contract;tone facial muscles Produces a mechanical reaction without a chemical effect Used during scalp & facial manipulations to cause muscular contractions that tone the facial muscles Benefits derived Improved muscle tone Removal of waste products Increased blood circulation Relief of blood congestion Increased glandular activity Stimulation of hair growth Increased metabolism
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials10 Modalities Sinusoidal current Similar to faradic current Used during scalp & facial manipulations Alternating current that produces mechanical contractions that tone the muscles Produce impulses on muscles & force them to contract;tone facial muscles Advantages Supplies greater stimulation, deeper penetration, & is less irritating than faradic current Soothes the nerves & penetrates into deeper muscle tissue Is best suited for the nervous client
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials11 Faradic & Sinusoidal current Application Cathode is placed on insertion of the muscle Insertion is the part that does not move; it is attached to the skeleton & is usually part of a skeletal muscle Anode is placed on the origin of the muscle Origin is the part of the muscle at the more movable attachment to the skeleton Pressure in massage is usually directed from the insertion to the origin Muscles contract 5-10 times each Do not use faradic current if it causes pain or discomfort
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials12 Modalities Tesla high-frequency current Discovered by Nikolas Tesla Has a germicidal effect; effective for acne-prone skin Thermal or heat-producing current High rate of oscillation or vibration Commonly called violet ray Used for both scalp & facial treatments Does not produce muscle contractions Effects can be either stimulating or soothing, depending on the method of application
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials13 Modalities Electrodes are made from either glass or metal One electrode is used to perform a service Electrodes Direct HF is mushroom shaped & variety of sizes Indirect HF is long w/metal coil inside Air around glass electrode vibrates & tiny violet sparks are emitted Some units have neon gas in the tube that produces an orange glow;all types produce the same effects Benefits Stimulated blood circulation Improved glandular activity Increased elimination & absorption Increased metabolism Improved germicidal action Relief of congestion
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials14 Methods for High-Frequency Current Application Direct surface application No product on face Use gauze if electrode won’t move easily on skin Apply glass electrode to client’s skin & move slowly over entire face for stimulation Hold finger on glass electrode to prevent sparking Remove finger once electrode is placed on skin Dab electrode on spot to cause sparking for stronger germicidal effects
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials15 Methods for High-Frequency Current Application Indirect application Client holds tube electrode w/ metal coil inside Cosmetologist massages face w/own hands At no time does cosmetologist hold the electrode Turn current on after client has firm hold on electrode This prevents shock Turn current off before removing electrode from client's hand This method stimulates all cell functions without the irritation that can e caused by the direct method This method is highly beneficial for sensitive, dehydrated skin
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials16 High Frequency Used to increase and stimulate blood circulation Test on client’s hand first to familiarize them with noise
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials17 Cleansing The large brush is for large areas The small brush is good for small areas Used to remove makeup, dirt, and oil from the skin
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials18 Magnifying Light Used to analyze skin Determine if skin is oily, normal or dry Best used after skin has been cleansed
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials19 Steamer Used on oily skin Do NOT use if client is asthmatic or has high blood pressure Use only distilled water in the steamer
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials20 Vacuum Tube Vacuum tubes are used to remove surface impurities Check suction strength prior to placement on client’s skin Large tube for large areas & small tube for up-close work
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials21 Atomizer Used at the end of the facial to close pores Spray a light mist over the face. Do not over saturate
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Machine Facials22 Mini Sanitizer Used to keep sterilized implements sanitized This does NOT sanitize implements for you