FASH 15 textiles basic weaves & fabrics

basic weaves & fabrics a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into 2- or 3-dimensional products that require some shaping & flexibility fabric quality describes many characteristics: freedom from defects uniform structure & appearance production performance consumer performance important to textile producers, designers, retailers & consumers

woven fabrics made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends) filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft) common characteristics: many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides fabrics have grain fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

the loom hand looms air-jet loom rapier loom projectile loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqjhvOuKLR8&NR=1 hand looms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLNalNO2yTg&NR=1&feature=fvwp air-jet loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgLstMHhLfY rapier loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOY_dhy8AQ0&NR=1 projectile loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3vjBYID0fc circular loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFFCAa1QHH4

characteristics of woven fabrics warp & filling differentiation selvage is always parallel to lengthwise direction (warp) most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp direction warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabrics because of loom tension fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and filling directions—EXAMPLE: poplin has filling rib; satin has warp floats warp yarns tend to have higher twist & are similar and more uniform in structure and appearance fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns since they must curve over or under warp yarns due to loom operation warp yarn count tends to be higher than filling yarn count if yarn-dyed stripes are in one direction only they tend to be in the warp direction

characteristics of woven fabrics grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use—do not drape properly or hang evenly and printed designs are not straight

characteristics of woven fabrics fabric count— number of warp and filling yarns per square inch indication of quality—higher count, better quality balance— ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric balanced fabric 1:1 selvage— lengthwise self-edge of a fabric formed differently on different looms

characteristics of woven fabrics fabric width— loom determines fabric width handwoven—narrow (27-36 inches) commercial—exceed 60 inches consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60 fabric weight describes how much a given area or length of fabric weighs important—identify appropriate use & name lightweight/top weight—weigh < 4.0 oz/sq yd medium weight—4.0-6.0 oz/sq yd heavyweight/bottom weight— weight > 6.0 oz/sq yd

naming & diagramming woven fabrics fabric names are based on: fabric structure fabric weight yarn type yarn balance finishes

plain weave simplest of the three basic weaves formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other least expensive weave to produce no technical face or back unless printed general characteristics: tend to wrinkle easily less absorbent than other weaves raveling less of a problem yarn type greatly influences these characteristics CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

balanced plain weave simplest plain weave warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave most widely used type of woven fabric can be made in any weight lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, habutai, challis medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz) muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

unbalanced plain weave significantly more yarns in one direction than the other creates rib—ridges of varying size depending upon number & size of yarns lightweight ribbed fabrics—crepe de chine medium-weight ribbed fabrics—broadcloth, taffeta, shantung heavyweight ribbed fabric—poplin, faille, rep, bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

basket weave made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel path most common are 2x2 or 4x4 variations include 2x1 and 2x3 fabrics that have a basket weave: dimity oxford cloth sailcloth duck canvas hopsacking monk’s cloth

twill weave each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or the left forms a distinct diagonal line or wale can be made on a simple loom have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale fewer interlacings allow yarns to move more freely softer, more pliable & recover better from wrinkles soil shows less on uneven face of twill weave than plain weave CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

even-sided twill weave expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric reversible even-sided twill weave fabrics: foulard or surah serge twill flannel sharkskin herringbone houndstooth

warp-faced twill weave have predominance of warp yarns on face stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling warp-faced twill weave fabrics: lining twill denim jean drill covert chino gabardine cavalry twill fancy twill

satin weave each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left can be produced on simple loom lustrous because of long floats on surface yarns can be packed very closely together face & back look significantly different high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind repellency fewer interlacings gives pliability and wrinkly resistance, but yarns may snag, slip or unravel easily CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

satin weave satin weave fabrics— satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface), filament yarns crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness & drapeability sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp sateen