Landscape Maintenance

What actions are necessary to maintain a landscape? Watering Weeding Pruning Deadheading Mulching Fertilizing Proper installation (& removal) of plants Winterization

Watering Watering is done for:  Newly installed plants to establish – few times per week – both woody and herbaceous plants  Dry weather periods-once plants have been established at least 1-2 yrs How to water:  Avoid getting water on leaves – sun will burn leaves & water encourages fungal diseases Water in early morning if possible – this reduces these problems, as the water will evaporate  Deeply & only when needed - needs to wet soil 12-16” depth soil should be dry 1” down (under mulch) Trees/shrubs in ground – once every 2 weeks if established and no rain Annuals/perennials in ground –depends on plant –every few days/once per week Overwatering  If you touch the soil 1” below the surface and it is moist – DON’T water  Overwatering suffocates roots & encourages disease Winter Damage  If trees & shrubs do not get sufficient water in the summer, they will not survive the winter (especially new plantings)

Fertilizing Fertilize in spring & early summer  Repeat fertilization for annuals & perennials every few weeks in summer (stop perennials in Sept)  Trees & Shrubs only in spring Do NOT give landscape plants a fertilizer with high nitrogen in the fall  This will interfere with winter dormancy preparation Trees/shrubs should be fertilized directly below the outer canopy – this is where the active roots are – not near the trunk Do NOT get fertilizers on the leaves – the sun will hit it & burn the leaves Over fertilization will cause plants to burn (high concentration of salt)  Liquid fertilizers – immediate results  Plant Tone – organic dry fertilizer – slowly releases nutrients over several weeks

Weeding Weed = any unwanted plant in an area Weeds compete with resources of desired plant:  Sunlight  Water  Nutrients  Weeds may also attract insects & diseases

Deadheading Deadheading = removing dead flowers (& leaves) from herbaceous plants This is done so the plant focuses it’s energy into living parts of the plants  Deadheading encourages new flowers & leaves

Pruning Pruning should only be done for the following reasons on trees/shrubs:  Diseased/damage branch  Encourage a fuller plant  Keep good structure - prevent branches from crossing over each other You should NOT prune to:  Make shapes out of plants no animals (unless it is a theme park/garden) no meatballs – keep plants in their natural shape (choose the correct shape of a plant when designing for the area)  Keep a large tree/shrub small (plant the right size) This is unhealthy for the plant Herbaceous plants (annuals/perennials) – ok to prune back to smaller sizes – some spread too much

Proper Pruning & Deadheading -Prune/deadhead to the nearest branch/set of leaves that will maintain the shape of the plant -Do not prune when transplanting or plant will go into shock – plant needs its leaves to establish in new area (deadheading & removing damaged branch ok) -If pruning to make a fuller plant, prune in spring: *if done to late in fall, plants may not heal before winter *if pruning flowering trees/shrubs, prune directly after the bloom (this will prevent cutting off the flower buds that are forming)

Mulching Functions of mulch:  Cools/retains heat in soil  Reduces weeds  Holds moisture  Reduces lawnmower damage  Prevents soil erosion  Nice looking  SOME MULCHES (like Sweet Peet) add nutrients You must REMOVE old mulch (especially bark mulch)  The soil level will get deeper if you keep piling mulch – then roots can’t breathe Sweet Peet – usually can leave on without removing old because it decomposes quickly. However you may need winter protection when using Sweet Peet because it decomposes by the winter. Don’t place mulch in direct contact with the trunk of the tree/stem of plant Will rot away stem/trunk Mulch should be 3” thick when applied to be effective Mulch should extend to the canopy line of the tree/shrub – this is where the active roots are

Mulch against the trunk will rot it. Too much mulch will prevent water from getting to the roots & will create anaerobic (toxic) conditions

Proper Transplanting Do not pull the plant out of the container by the stem – turn pot over – use a pruner or shovel to cut slashes on trees/shrubs Break up the roots – or they will continue to circle & fail to get nutrients, as well as cause the plant to fall over in poor weather Dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the rootball Dig a hole to a depth where the new soil level will be at the soil level of the pot – not burying the stem (will rot) – but not so the plant is above the ground (will dry out) Firm soil lightly after planting (too firm will compact soil =squeeze air out) Water gently & deeply

Planting Best Scenario -plant trees/shrubs in fall Summer – really tough Plant by mid-Oct so roots can adjust prior to ground freeze  Dig hole diameter larger than rootball, but don’t add amendments (fertilizer, peat) to soil because it actually may inhibit roots from growing out & establishing If planting balled/burlapped, plant tree/shrub in hole in burlap,untie the burlap and bury it in the soil – be sure it isn’t sticking out DON’T FERTILIZE WHEN PLANTING unless you are using a slow release fertilizer – too much stress at one time

Dividing You can divide perennials anytime, but spring is best  Less stress on plant, as it has just begun to grow Dig up most of the plant – be sure to dig a larger rootball than the plant

Preparing Plants for Winter General rule – if you have to wrap your plant up in burlap to protect it, don’t bother planting that type of tree/shrub in that area  Broadleaved evergreens shouldn’t be planted in windy areas For perennials, cover with mulch, leaves, straw, etc to protect plants from when ground heaves from freezing & thawing (roots are left exposed from heaving)