Waves Transmit __________ (not __________) across the ocean’s surface _________ – disturbances caused by the movement of __________ through some __________ (solid, liquid, gas)

Waves Most generated in the _________ ocean Wave __________ depends on Wind __________ __________ – distance over which the wind blows – usually generated by a big storm

Waves Described by __________ – highest part __________ – lowest part __________ (L) – distance between crests/troughs __________ __________ (H) – vertical distance between crest and trough

Waves __________ __________ (T) – time for successive waves to pass a fixed point __________ – number of wave crests/troughs passing a fixed point every second

Types of Waves __________ __________ Waves Move through water ______________________ of the wave Do not feel the __________ Wave __________ is __________

Types of Waves __________ __________ Waves Move through water ______________________ of the wave Feel the __________ __________ move in a circular path, only back and forth __________ waves are shallow water waves

Deep Water Waves Move in an ________ / _________ motion Waves do not carry water very far, but __________ __________ _________ of circle _________ with depth Wave motion __________________ below ½ wavelength

Deep Water Waves When waves approach __________ ________ with seabed when ________ equals ½ the __________ Orbits become restricted and ________ Waves ______ down and _________ up Waves become ________ water waves Eventually they form __________

Breakers At water depths ____________________, waves feel the __________ Wave __________ increases Wave __________ decreases __________ decreases because waves are dragging on the bottom Wave __________ stays the same When wave reaches 1.3 H => _________

Wave Refraction Wave crests can ________, or bend, if they approach the shore at an ____ Caused by the change in ______ of waves as water depth __________ Only a small part of each wave feels __________ at a time so only a small part of wave __________

Waves Classified By- ____________ ___________ – energy that causes the wave to form ____________ ____________ – force that returns the water surface to flatness after the wave formed ____________ – __________ waves move the __________

Types of Waves Capillary waves – first to form when wind blows Important in transferring energy from air to water to drive ocean currents __________ __________ – form when __________ blows over ocean surface Both are deep water waves

Types of Waves __________ – pendulum-like rocking of water in a basin No __________ or __________

Types of Waves ______________ – caused by the rapid displacement of ocean water When caused by the sudden vertical movement of Earth along faults called __________ _____ _____ Also caused by __________, ________ _________, __________ __________, __________ impacts

Types of Waves Tsunami Resemble fast, onrushing __________ Not __________ in open water Can travel at 212 meters per second (470 mph)

Types of Waves Tides Caused by the __________ attraction of Earth, moon and sun Tides move at a rate of 1600km (1000 mi) per hour

Shallow Water Waves Seiches, tsunami and tides are all __________ water waves They have extremely long __________ They are __________ in water less than ½ their wavelength The waves move extremely fast

Rogue Waves Rogue waves are caused when wave trains traveling at different __________ and directions ______. They appear __________ and may capsize boats.