AROMATHERAPY AND BEAUTY CARE : PHYSICAL, PHYSIOLOGICAL & PSHYCHOLOGICAL COMFORT Prof. Jyoti Marwah, Head, History Department, ICLES College, Navi Mumbai Member, Board of Studies (History), Univ. of Mumbai Member, Faculty of Arts, Univ. of Mumbai

ANCIENT COSMETOLOGY The concept of aromas is more than just perfumery. In a fragrant environment, the human mind experiences psychological, physiological and physical comfort. Anthropological studies suggest the primitive use of aromatic plants began with burning of herbs and plant material such as resins and gums. Man applied paste of flowers, leaves and barks in prehistoric time to adorn, cool, protect and heal the human body. Earlier meaning of cosmetology - use of Aromatics to drape oneself with. The history of aromatic substances is as old as the human civilization. Sudanese Bath Egyptian cone hair dressings

EGYPTIAN WOMEN WITH UNGENT CONES

Cosmetology & Aromatherapy Today cosmetology or the science of beautifying ones skin has steadily progressed into a revolution with cosmetic surgeries, skin grafts, laser technology which can shape and redefine the skin. However, I firmly believe that even with this revolution, Aromatherapy has a niche of its own, from where even modern cosmetology can not dislodge it.

The Beginning …and Today Understanding Essential oils and its interdisciplinary study under the title History of the uses of Essential oils through the Ages. My journey began with an introduction to cultivation, distillation, and uses of Essential oils for women Entrepreneurs from FFDC and CIMAP Lucknow in since then there has been no looking back. I am confident about promoting wellness Management with indigenous aromatic substances –to be specific ATTARS which too is Aromatherapy.

Learning from English Heritage UK is selling heritage for Economics as I was introduced to their methodology of Understanding and Presenting Heritage Sites at a course at Oxford University We too have enough to market and one such valuable preserve is the city of Kannauj and its Aromatic Heritage

Learning from Uncle Sam The three men from the Orient who offered Gold, Myrrh and Frankincense to Baby Jesus had actually offered Jatamassi oil, Myrrh and Frankincense the golden coloured oil of Jatamassi is referred to as Gold Mary Magdalene washed the feet of Jesus with Jatamassi oil. American have invested some several million dollars in Nepal for the cultivation Jatamassi and now want to create a market for it.

GOLD, MYRRH, FRANKINCENSE & JESUS

JATAMASSI Jatamassi grows in the higher Himalayas and the Western world asserts that the Indians did not know the use of this plant but the Egyptians taught them to use of it. Jatamassi was used for the making of Kyphi offered to the Egyptian Sun God--Ra. Found in the tomb of Tutankhamen the Egyptian Pharaoh known for his lavish life style. Jatamassi finds mention in the Indian literary sources particularly the Tattireya Brahmanas.

TUTANKHAMEN BEING ANNOINTED WITH AROMATIC SUBSTANCES

JATAMASSI Jatamassi oil is highly aromatic and is obtained from the rhisomes. It is highly antiseptic, digestive, liver- stimulant, intellect promoting, and a tonic. It is helpful in pitta and vata conditions. Helps in epilepsy, hysteria, convulsions and much more. In the line of beauty, it is excellent in hair care and prevents graying of hair.

PLANTS IN LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC STUDIES Particularly plants like Chandan, Gulab, Tulsi, Champaka, Jasmine, Jeshtamedh, Ghritaci, Cypress, Ashwagandha, Kamal (Lotus) and much more find special use in the practice of naturopathy and aromatherapy. Literary sources abound with examples to indicate valued use of these plants pre Vedic, Vedic and post Vedic periods. These have found support through palynology, archaeology and palaeo-botanical studies. Hence the literary sources which today are looked upon with skepticism are finding support through these studies.

Indologists like Dr. P. K. Gode, Palaeo-botanists like Prof. Birbal Sahani and Dr. P. V. Sithole have done abundant work on medicinal and Aromatic plants. P K Gode found -- Gandhasara of Gangadhara and Gandhavada (Anonymous) composed between AD with a commentary in Marathi, on the basis of earlier text. Dr. K. S. Saraswat and Dr. P. V. Pokharia Belong to the same period of time as Varahmira's Brahtsamhita (500 AD), Agni Purana (between 800 to 900 AD) and Someswara's Manasollasa (1130 AD). It is the degree of excellence and refinement of fragrance and cosmetics at any given period of civilization, which can be taken as index of the cultural development of that period, felt Dr. P. K. Gode.

GANDHASHASTRA Gandhashastra or the science of odour is part of Indian medical science of Ayurveda; Consequently the history of every Aromatic ingredient (Gandhadravya) is part of the Indian Materia Medica. Gandhasara by Gangadhara gives a glossary devoted to Aromatic ingredients (Gandhadravya) classified into different vargas or classes.

GANDHADRAVYA – ESSENTIALS OF PERFUMERY 1.Leaves-Basil etc. 2.Flowers-Saffron, Champaka. 3.Fruits- Poppy, Nutmeg, Cardemon 4.Barks-Bark of cinnamon tree etc. 5.Woods- Sandal wood 6.Roots - Nagarmotha.Vala, Jatamassi etc. 7.Exudation from plant -- Camphor etc. 8.Organic products- Musk, Honey etc.

ESSENTIALS OF AROMATHERAPY This eight fold classification is in keeping with modern concept of Aromatherapy which visualizes effects of essential oils from different parts of the plants. Flowers sedating and relaxing Resins and barks heating and make body fluids move. Leaves cooling and close to the haemoglobin structure Roots grounding and help develop confidence Fruits growth oriented and produce an expanding and stimulating effect

WOOD CHARCOAL FROM SANGHOL and Kunal Hawan Kunds Source: Dr. K. S. Saraswat & Dr. A. K. Pokharia Birbal Sahni Institute of Palaeobotany Lucknow

AROMATHERAPY AND SKIN CARE TODAY (BEAUTY) The concept of beauty lies in well-being. It does not necessarily mean chemically treated hair with loads of conditioners or caked facial skin with make up. It is not the beauty that we discuss but it is skin health that we talk of as a healthy skin free from hyper-pigmentation, warts, skin-tags, melasma, milia, eczema, dermatitis, acne etc will automatically be beautiful.

PINK OF HEALTH? Skin is the largest organ and suffers the most due to a number of reasons – –Environment, –pollution, –radiation due to the ozone hole, –malfunction of the endocrines, –metabolic disorders, –stress, –tension name the problem and the skin suffers.

WONDERS OF TOUCH COMMUNICATION Being an alternative method of healing, it is not a solution which can be sold like an OTC. It needs to be worked with. Its pathways are skin, olfactory or by ingestion. These have to be managed with the service, which should be skilful and the results which follow may be slow, but will be positive.

ECZEMA CONTACT DERMATITIS

SKIN SOLUTIONS Psoriasis no longer remains to be a genetic malfunction - Immunity collapse due to various reasons has become a cause for worry – wringtia tinctoria has given good results and provide relief. Spice oils like nutmeg, fennel, ajwain, turmeric when blended well are helping in detoxification and rejuvenation.

SKIN SOLUTIONS Blend of SC grade oils like Chandan, juniper berry, Kachur-sugandhi and Jatamassi have given relief in conditions of acne, contact dermatitis and eczema. Turmeric oil is being promoted today as an anti-tan formula as it prevents discolouration of the skin. It is useful in skin diseases, pruritus and allergic skin conditions. Other benefits in cold cough and stomach ailments are well known.

AYURVEDIC AROMATHERAPY Aromatherapy when blended well with other techniques of Ayurveda also helps in delivering the treatment. When used in Shirodhara the patients have given an upward swing in the feeling of well- Being. As it works on the pineal gland and pituitary gland and, thereby, on the hypothalamus and as a result on the endocrines, thus balancing the hormones. This when combined with detoxification technique of foot reflexology, lymph drainage and skin polishing gives maximum results.

Facial Massage Movements

Dosha : VATA

Shape of faceThin, long, egg shaped, small forehead Skin Cold, dry, sallow, rough, small pores, wrinkled, dark circles, tans easily HairDark, dry, frizzy, thin, coarse LipsThin, dry, tendency to crack SleepIrregular, interrupted Prone to Excessive dryness, psoriasis, dandruff, wrinkles, constipation, backache, arthritis, nervous disorders, insomnia OilsJasmine, sandalwood, vanilla, lemon

Dosha : Pitta

Shape of faceTriangular with pointed chin Skin Warm, soft, reddish, pink, lustrous, large pores, red nose, prone to allergic reactions, burns easily HairSoft, straight, light or reddish, premature gray LipsMedium, soft, red, pink SleepLittle but sound Prone to Acne, rashes, cold sores, allergy, burning sensations, peptic ulcers, liver disorders, hypertension OilsJasmine, sandalwood, vetiver

Dosha : Kapha

Shape of faceRound or square Skin Cool, fair, oily, large pores, black heads, prone to cystic acne, scarring, tans easily HairThick, oily, wavy, curly, black, shiny LipsThick, pale SleepNeeds more sleep for a longer time, deep sleep Prone to Acne, oedema, swelling, sinus headaches, sore throat, respiratory problems, asthma, diabetes, tumours OilsLavender, basil, ginger, rosemary

Aromatherapy and Cosmeceuticals Normalising skin complexTea tree and licorice Age defying complexWalnut and orange Soothing face mask Licorice, marigold, Macadamia Botanical infusions –skin and eyeMarigold Calming sensitive creamLicorice and Macadamia Soothing face lotionOrange, licorice Anti-stressLicorice, calendula Eye maskRose oil DetoxifyingGinger, Rosemary

ITS ALL IN THE HEAD Like wise name the problem and it is the brain which is unable to cope up with dramatic changes in our lifestyle and response to situations which are beyond our comprehension. It is here that aromatherapy is the ideal solution for detoxification and rejuvenation.

You have been entrusted with the care and feeding of the most extraordinary and complex creation in the universe. Home to your mind and personality, your brain houses your cherished memories and future hopes. It orchestrates the symphony of consciousness that gives you purpose and passion, motion and emotion.

AROMATHERAPY FOR ALL Aromatherapy in beauty care is a very vast canvas to paint on and my efforts are to carry this to the common man. What was once the prerogative of Kings, Queens and the elite is now within common mans reach. All the best, lets all have WELL-BEING through Aromatherapy and above all Aromatherapy with Attars THANK YOU