OCEAN MOTION Coulter

Most waves form when winds blowing across the water’s surface transmit their energy to the water. Wave-movement of energy through a body of water. Wave size- depends on the strength of the wind and on the length of time it blows. – Gentle breeze- small ripples – Strong winds- larger waves WHAT IS A WAVE?

Size also depends on the distance over which the wind blows. Winds on the Pacific Ocean can create bigger waves then those blowing across the narrower Atlantic Ocean. Wave energy- although waves may appear to carry water toward shore, the water doe not actually move forward in deep water. – Example a cork in water. WHAT IS A WAVE?

As the wave passes, water particles move in a circular path. They swing forward and down with the energy of the wave, then back up to their original position. Deeper water moves in smaller circles. Wind affects surface water more than deep water. Below a certain depth, the water does not move at all as the wave passes. WATER MOTION

Crest- highest part of a wave Wavelength- horizontal distance between crests Frequency- the number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time. Trough- lowest part of a wave Wave height- the vertical distance from the crest to the trough. – Energy and strength of a wave depend mainly on its wave height. OTHER WAVE CHARACTERIS TICS

Breakers- the white-capped waves that crash onto shore. Shells- in deep water, long, low waves Near shore, wave height increases and wavelength decreases. When wave reaches certain height the crest topples. At first the breaker surges up the beach, but gravity slows it down and water flows back to sea. HOW WAVES CHANGE NEAR SHORE

Tsunami, is usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor. The abrupt movement of the ocean floor sends pulses of energy through water above. If you were on a boat you may not even know a tsunami is passing. – A tsunami in deep water may have a wavelength of 200 km, but a wave height of less than a meter. When tsunami reaches the coast, friction with the ocean floor causes the long wavelength to decrease suddenly. The wave height increases as the water “piles up” – Some tsunamis have reached 20 meters (5 story building) TSUNAMIS

Most common in Pacific Ocean – Alaska, Hawaii, and Japan Governments in areas prone to tsunamis are searching for ways to avoid such devastation. Some Japanese cities have built barriers designed to break up the waves. Scientists also monitor the ocean floor for warning of earthquakes that may produce tsunamis TSUNAMIS

Longshore drift- as waves come into shore, water washes up the beach at an angle, carrying sand grains. The water sand then run straight back down the beach. This movement of sand along the beach is called longshore drift. Rip currents- a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening. – Can carry a swimmer out into deep water – A strong swimmer can usually escape by swimming across the current, parallel to the beach. HOW WAVES AFFECT THE SHORE

Waves shape the beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others Erosion- destructive process in which water, wind, or gravity loosens and carries away fragments of rock. First, waves hit rocky shorelines and carve the rocks into tall cliffs and arches. Over thousands of years, waves break the rock into pebbles and grains of sand. Then waves begin to eat away at the exposed beach, the shoreline slowly moves farther inland. WAVES AND BEACH EROSION

BARRIER BEACHES

SAND DUNES

GROINS