Presentation on theme: "Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing"— Presentation transcript:
1Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna PytkowskaAcademy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland
2Plant preparations for hair dyeing Plants have been used for dyeing hair for agesHenna (Lawsonia inermis)lawsone, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinoneGreen shells of walnut (Juglans regia)juglone, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinoneGerman chamomille (Chamomilla recutita)ApigeninIndigofera tinctoriaIndigotin
3Other plants of interest Other plants used traditionally for hair coloration in EuropeSweet sedge (Acorus calamus)Rhubarb (Rheum spp.)Oak barkPlants containing high amount of dyes and pigments of intense shadeHibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa)Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)
4Mechanisms of action of plant dyes Reactive dyeingMaillard reaction with keratinlawsone, jugloneDirect dyeingAdsorption of dyes/pigments on the hair cuticleApigeninOther flavonoidsOther substances
5Hibiscus sabdariffa petals The main ingredient of hibiscus infusionsthe additive to other blends of herbsStrong ruby-red colour and characteristic aroma
6Colouring agents in hibiscus flavonoidsanthocyanides, flavonolsE.g. delphinidin (1), delphinin, cyanidin (2), hibiscetin, gossipetin and their glycosides.
7Problems with natural dyes Natural dyes are (in solutions):not very stable,prone to oxidation, browning, UV discolouration etc.highly pH sensitivenone of these adverse effects are applicable to the dry powdered material containing natural dyebut …in-home application of packs and pastes prepared from dry herbal material could be difficultColour effects are sometimes dificult to predictColour is strongly determined by the plant
8Factors influencing intensity and durability of color the kind of hair and the damage intensity,initial hair colour,earlier application of synthetic dyes and/or bleaching products,structure of a natural dye,frequency of the application of plant preparation,the temperature of dyeing mixtureduration of the mixture - hair contact
9How to change colour coming from natural dyes? … by complexes formation or destabilizationMordantsChelating agents… by dye absorptionHMW additives to formulation
11Hibiscus We used the following types of preparations for research dyeing blendInfusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 10, applied cold,dyeing rinseInfusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 20, applied warm,dyeing pastesthickened preparations based on the dyeing blendThe colour of the dyeing preparation strongly depends on pH
12pH valueColour ot the dyeing blend3,12Intense pink-red3,35Pink-red4,80Light pink5,58No colour6,57Light yellow7,09Brown-yellow7,65Light blue7,90Brown-blue> 7,90
13Rinse Colour effect 2x 2 min. 4x 2min. Dark brown - Medium brown +++ Golden reflexes++Red shadeConditioning+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - noneShade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shadeConditioning effect: strong, ++ good, + slight, - none
14Paste with kaolin 20 min. 40 min. Paste with wheat bran Dark brown +++ Medium brown-Golden reflexes+Red shadesConditioning effect+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - noneShade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shadeConditioning effect: strong, ++ good, + slight, - none
15Hibiscus Effects Slight colour effect on dark hair Strong conditioning Adsorbents change the colour effect
17Grey or bleached hair Problem – too yellow shade Remain of phaeomelanin in originally blonde, grey hairInsufficuent bleachingSolution – optical brighteningSorption of blue dye/pigment on the hair surface – use of blue pigment-rich raw materialRemoval of red/yellow dyes from a natural raw material by sorption or complex formationpH shift of colour (not applicable to human hair)
21Mordants used in traditional textile dyeing Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)does not affect colour strongly. It is usually used with potassium tartrate, which helps to provide evenness and will also brighten slightly.Iron (ferrous sulfate).It will sadden or darken colours,Tin (stannous chloride)blooms or brightens colours, especially reds, oranges and yellows.Almost always used with potassium tartrate.Not allowed for use in cosmeticsCopper (copper sulfate)saddens colours and brings out greens.
26CornflowerThe main blue pigment of cornflower petals is a complex compound of flavonoids and Al ion (protocyanin)
27Cornflower preparations We used the following types of preparations for researchdyeing blendInfusion of cornflower petals in water, applied cold,dyeing rinseInfusion of cornflower petals in hot waterThe infusion changed the colour to strawberry-redThe problemThe stability of Al-flavonoid complex
28Cornflower Application on bleached hair Colour shift by mordants Decrease of b* parameter in chromametric evaluationColour shift by mordantsCu and Zn containing mordants shifted the cornflower-based colour to the blue regionThe effect was similar to the effect of pure mordants
29Conclusions Hibiscus-based raw materials should be fully applicable to hair care cosmetics for grey and bleached hairplant-based dyeing preparationsCornflower is a plant of high interestThe main problem to solve is blue pigment stability in solutions
30AcknowledgmentsI would like to thank the researchers involved in the project: Stanislaw Krus MSc, Halah Faraj BSc, Sylwia Antczak BSc and Ewa Pawłowska.