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Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland.

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Presentation on theme: "Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland."— Presentation transcript:

1 Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland

2 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Plant preparations for hair dyeing Plants have been used for dyeing hair for ages Henna (Lawsonia inermis) lawsone, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone Green shells of walnut (Juglans regia) juglone, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone German chamomille (Chamomilla recutita) Apigenin Indigofera tinctoria Indigotin

3 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Other plants of interest Other plants used traditionally for hair coloration in Europe Sweet sedge (Acorus calamus) Rhubarb (Rheum spp.) Oak bark Plants containing high amount of dyes and pigments of intense shade Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)

4 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Mechanisms of action of plant dyes Reactive dyeing Maillard reaction with keratin lawsone, juglone Direct dyeing Adsorption of dyes/pigments on the hair cuticle Apigenin Other flavonoids Other substances

5 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Hibiscus sabdariffa petals The main ingredient of hibiscus infusions the additive to other blends of herbs Strong ruby-red colour and characteristic aroma

6 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Colouring agents in hibiscus flavonoids anthocyanides, flavonols E.g. delphinidin (1), delphinin, cyanidin (2), hibiscetin, gossipetin and their glycosides.

7 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Problems with natural dyes Natural dyes are (in solutions): not very stable, prone to oxidation, browning, UV discolouration etc. highly pH sensitive none of these adverse effects are applicable to the dry powdered material containing natural dye but … in-home application of packs and pastes prepared from dry herbal material could be difficult Colour effects are sometimes dificult to predict Colour is strongly determined by the plant

8 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Factors influencing intensity and durability of color the kind of hair and the damage intensity, initial hair colour, earlier application of synthetic dyes and/or bleaching products, structure of a natural dye, frequency of the application of plant preparation, the temperature of dyeing mixture duration of the mixture - hair contact

9 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care How to change colour coming from natural dyes? … by complexes formation or destabilization Mordants Chelating agents … by dye absorption HMW additives to formulation

10 Our research

11 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Hibiscus We used the following types of preparations for research dyeing blend Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 10, applied cold, dyeing rinse Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 20, applied warm, dyeing pastes thickened preparations based on the dyeing blend The colour of the dyeing preparation strongly depends on pH

12 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care pH valueColour ot the dyeing blend 3,12Intense pink-red 3,35Pink-red 4,80Light pink 5,58No colour 6,57Light yellow 7,09Brown-yellow 7,65Light blue 7,90Brown-blue > 7,90Brown-blue

13 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Rinse Colour effect2x 2 min.4x 2min. Dark brown-- Medium brown+++ Golden reflexes+++++ Red shade-- Conditioning dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none

14 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Paste with kaolin 20 min. Paste with kaolin 40 min. Paste with wheat bran 20 min. Paste with wheat bran 40 min. Dark brown Medium brown Golden reflexes Red shades-+-- Conditioning effect dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none

15 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Hibiscus Effects Slight colour effect on dark hair Strong conditioning Adsorbents change the colour effect

16 Preparations for grey or bleached hair

17 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Grey or bleached hair Problem – too yellow shade Remain of phaeomelanin in originally blonde, grey hair Insufficuent bleaching Solution – optical brightening Sorption of blue dye/pigment on the hair surface – use of blue pigment-rich raw material Removal of red/yellow dyes from a natural raw material by sorption or complex formation pH shift of colour (not applicable to human hair)

18 Hibiscus preparations

19 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care AdditivepH value Colour uniformity Hair shade pinkblonde No additive3, Rice mash3,25+/ -+ + Kaolin3,25-++ Corn flour3,31-++ Wheat bran3, Oat bran3, Colour uniformity +++ uniform, even colour; +/- quite even colour ; - uneven, not uniform colour Colour +++ dominant shade; ++ additional shade; + very light shade;

20 Effects of inorganic additives

21 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Mordants used in traditional textile dyeing Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) does not affect colour strongly. It is usually used with potassium tartrate, which helps to provide evenness and will also brighten slightly. Iron (ferrous sulfate). It will sadden or darken colours, Tin (stannous chloride) blooms or brightens colours, especially reds, oranges and yellows. Almost always used with potassium tartrate. Not allowed for use in cosmetics Copper (copper sulfate) saddens colours and brings out greens.

22 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Chromametric analysis L*a*b* scale

23 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Natural blond hair dL*(D65)da*(D65)db*(D65)dE*ab(D65) Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3-5,22-1,99-4,327,06 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 ; pH=3,3 -3,29-2,02-7,458,39 Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8-3,111,41-2,634,31 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 ; pH=5,8 -8,82-2,34-4,5810,21 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 + trisodium EDTA -9,073,77-4,5910,84 Hibiscus sabdariffa + trisodium EDTA -9,725,99-6,4813,13 (Chromametr Konica-Minolta: Chroma Meter CR-400)

24 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Bleached hair dL*(D65)da*(D65)db*(D65)dE*ab(D65) Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3-6,192,42-6,449,25 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 ; pH=3,3 -12,33-3,18-13,1518,3 Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8-7,97-4,79-10,5514,06 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 ; pH=5,8 -7,06-4,63-5,119,86 Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe 2 O 3 + trisodium EDTA -9,997,71-14,4319,17 Hibiscus sabdariffa + trisodium EDTA -9,675,72-12,4216,74

25 Cornflower preparations

26 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Cornflower The main blue pigment of cornflower petals is a complex compound of flavonoids and Al ion (protocyanin)

27 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Cornflower preparations We used the following types of preparations for research dyeing blend Infusion of cornflower petals in water, applied cold, dyeing rinse Infusion of cornflower petals in hot water The infusion changed the colour to strawberry-red The problem The stability of Al-flavonoid complex

28 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Cornflower Application on bleached hair Decrease of b* parameter in chromametric evaluation Colour shift by mordants Cu and Zn containing mordants shifted the cornflower-based colour to the blue region The effect was similar to the effect of pure mordants

29 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Conclusions Hibiscus-based raw materials should be fully applicable to hair care cosmetics for grey and bleached hair plant-based dyeing preparations Cornflower is a plant of high interest The main problem to solve is blue pigment stability in solutions

30 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Acknowledgments I would like to thank the researchers involved in the project: Stanislaw Krus MSc, Halah Faraj BSc, Sylwia Antczak BSc and Ewa Pawłowska.


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