1. Steering Service

2. Tire wear diagnosis – excess toe-in
Excessive toe-in causes the outside edges of the tire to wear at an accelerated rate.
When the wheels toe in the outside edge of the tires are being dragged slightly sideways as the tires roll.
The excess heat created by this dragging melts the tread rubber.

3. Tire wear diagnosis – excess toe-out
Abnormal wear caused by toe-out causes the inside edges of the tire to wear unevenly.
If the front wheels have excessive toe-in or toe-out rapid and uneven wear will destroy both front tires.
Excess toe-in / toe-out does not cause pull or vibration.

4. Feathered edge wear
Uneven wear caused by excessive toe-in or toe-out causes the tread blocks to wear unevenly.
The wear pattern is called ‘feathered’ and appears as rounded on one edge of the tread block and square off at the opposite edge.
Feathered edge wear can be felt by running your hand across the surface – in one direction it feels smooth and in the opposite direction it feels rough.

5. Visual inspection
Incorrect toe angle can be cause by a number of steering and suspension problems.
Bent or worn tie rods
Bent control arms
Worn ball joints
Worn control arm bushings
Loose steering rack / bushings
Worn idler arm

6. Tie rod end inspection
Grasp the tie rod here
Both inner and outer tie rod ends are inspected by grapping a hold of the tie rod and pushing up/down and inward/outward.
Any play in the tie rod will require replacement of the tie rod end.

7. Tie rod replacement
Exposed threads
If the steering arm is made of forged steel the tie rod end can be separated form the steering arm using a flat side of a ball peen hammer.
Before loosening the jamb nut count the number of exposed threads on the tie rod.
When the new tie rod end is installed with the same number of exposed threads the toe adjustment should be close to it’s original position.

8. Tie rod separator
If the tie rod end is to be replaced a pickle fork can be used to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
If the steering arm is made of aluminum or stamped steel a screw type separator will be required.
Images courtesy OTC corp.

9. Replacing inner tie rod ends on rack & pinion
The outer tie rod end can remain attached to the steering arm.
Loosen the jamb nut then unscrew the tie rod from the outer end.
Remove jamb nut, boot clamps and boot.
Bend the locking plate with a flat chisel
Unscrew the tie rod end from the steering rack using a special tie rod end removal socket.
Image courtesy OTC corp.

10. Inner tie rod end removal tools
Universal tie rod end tool sets are available with adapters that fit a variety of vehicles.
Image courtesy OTC corp.

11. Replacing inner tie rod ends
Non-reusable boot clamp
Note: portions of the boot have been removed for this photo
Flats behind inner joint
Adapters are needed on this style tie rod to get to the flats behind the inner joint.
This style inboard boot clamp is non reusable .
Image courtesy General Motors corp.

12. Steering wheel off center
Generally if there is something bent in the steering / suspension system it will effect one side more than the other.
If the toe adjustment is off on just one side of the vehicle the driver will correct for it by steering the car.
If the steering wheel is not at 12 O’clock when driving on a straight and level road there is unequal toe in the steering system.

13. Diagnosis – loose steering
Most steering systems have a small amount of freeplay.
Freeplay can be defined as movement of the steering wheel that does not produce movement at the tires.
Freeplay is best checked on alignment rack with the turn plates unlocked.
Two technicians are needed – one sitting in the car moving the steering wheel and the other under the car observing the steering linkage.

14. Determining the location of freeplay
Hold the steering coupler or pinion shaft with an appropriate tool and have your assistant wiggle the steering. If there is excessive freeplay the problem is in the column or coupler.
Observe the rack as your assistant wiggles the steering. If the rack moves side to side the rack bushings or mounts are worn.

15. Determining the location of freeplay
If the pinion shaft moves but there is no motion in the tie rods the freeplay is inside the rack.
If the tie rods move back and forth but the tires do not move the problem is in the outer tie rod ends or wheel bearings.

16. Freeplay in linkage type steering
Loose idler arm pivot bushings are a common problem in parallelogram type systems.
Grab the idler arm and push up and down. The end of the idle arm should not move up or down more than ¼”.
Push up and down and side to side on all the other ball and socket joints in the system. There should be nothing loose.
Grab the steering coupler and rock the worm shaft back and forth. If there is motion in the worm shaft but the pitman arm does not move there is freeplay in the steering box.

17. Adjusting the steering box
Freeplay can be adjusted on a recirculating ball steering box.
First separate the pitman arm from the center link.
Center the steering wheel.
Loosen the lock nut.
Turn the Allen screw inward ¼ turn.
Turn the steering wheel from 9 O’clock to 3 O’clock .
The adjustment is correct when a very slight resistance is felt as the steering passes through 12 O’clock.
Adjuster screw [Allen]
Jamb nut

18. Diagnosis – fluid leaks
There should no lose of power steering fluid over time. If fluid needs to be added to the reservoir there is a leak somewhere in the system.
Leakage in one of the rack seals may be contained in the rack boot. In normal operation the rack boots should be dry.
Because of liability issues leaking racks, steering boxes and pumps are normally replaced rather than installing new seals.

19. Replacing hydraulic lines
Flair nut wrenches are needed to remove and replace P/S hoses.
Flair type ‘crows feet’ adapters are normally required in the tight confines surrounding the steering rack.

20. Why flare nut wrenches are needed
The hose connector nuts are made of a soft metal.
When conventional wrenches are used the flats on the nuts are damaged.

21. Replacing hydraulic lines
Plastic looms are located between the sub-frame/body and metal hydraulic lines to prevent abrasion.
Rubber cushions are wrapped around rubber hydraulic lines where there may be contact with the unibody.

22. Hard steering - diagnosis
Possible causes
Loose power steering belt
Low fluid / fluid leak
Faulty power steering pump
Seized ball joints – strut bearings – tie rod ends
Faulty control valve
Blocked or restricted P/S hose – pinched metal line

23. Fluid level Power steering should be checked with the fluid at 80o F.
Most reservoirs have a dipstick in the cap with a hot and cold mark.
To bring the fluid up to temperature turn the steering lock to lock several times with the engine running.
Place a drop of fluid on a clean shop towel. The fluid should be clear and not appear burnt.
The fluid in the reservoir should be free of air bubbles and foam.

24. Hard steering - diagnosis
With the vehicle raised off of the ground and the engine off turn the steering.
If the steering is harder to turn than normal disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering arms.
Turn the steering knuckle by hand – if it doesn’t move freely the ball joints or strut bushing are frozen.
If the steering turns normally with the engine off but is hard to steer when driving on the road the problem is probably in the power assist system.

25. Hard steering - diagnosis
If the belt]s] is OK and tensioned properly and the fluid level is normal a pressure test may be needed to further diagnose the problem.
A P/S system tester combines a 0 – 3000 psi hydraulic gauge and a shutoff valve.
The tester is connected between the pump and high pressure hose.

26. Accessory hose – part of pressure tester set
P/S pressure test
0 – 3000 psi gauge
Shutoff Valve
With the tester connected the pressure should be around 100 to 150 psi with no steering input and rise to about 1000 psi when the steering is turned to full lock.
High pressure hose
Control valve
Accessory hose – part of pressure tester set

27. P/S pressure test
Gauge end connects to pump
With the tester connected the pressure should be around 100 to 150 psi with no steering input and rise to about 1000 psi when the steering is turned to full lock.
Valve end connects to High pressure hose
Shutoff Valve
With the shutoff valve closed the pressure should rise to about 1000 psi.
If the pressure does not rise when the shutoff valve is closed the pump is faulty.
Image courtesy OTC corp.

28. P/S pressure test
If the pressure rises to about 1000 psi when the valve is closed but does not rise as much when the valve is open and the steering is turned to full lock the fault lies inside the rack/steering box.
If there is higher than specified pressure when the valve is open and there is

29. Pull to either side – self steering
Generally a pull to the right or left is caused by an alignment or brake problem.
A bad control valve however can cause a steering system to self steer.
To check for a possible self steer raise the vehicle on a lift so the tires are off the ground.
Center the steering a 12 O’clock.
Start the engine and watch the steering wheel.
If the steering wheel turns to either side the control valve is faulty and the rack/box will have to be replaced.

30. Replacing the power steering pump
A new or remanufactured power steering pump does not usually come with a pulley.
The pulley on the old P/S pump is transferred to the new P/S pump
The P/S pump pulley is press fit to the pump shaft.
A special tool set is needed to remove and replace the P/S pulley.

31. Removing the pump pulley
Pulley Installer tool
Pulley removal tool
Thrust bearing
Threads connect tool to pump shaft
Sleeve presses against pump shaft
Internal flange grips groove in hub
Images courtesy OTC corp.

32. Removing the pump pulley
Groove for removal tool
The pulley has a groove in it’s hub that the pulley removal tool engages.
Image courtesy General Motors corp.

33. Installing the pump pulley
Before removing the pulley from the old hub look to see how far the pump shaft extends outside the hub.
Install the pulley on the new pump with the same amount of shaft protruding.
Press fit pulleys can be repositioned to bring a misaligned belt back into pro

34. Correcting excess toe-in
To correct the toe-in problem here both tie rods need to be made shorter.
Clamp
Jamb nut
Inner tie rod
Toe is adjusted by loosening the jamb nut then turning the inner tie rod until toe is correct.
The outer boot clamp may need to be loosened to prevent boot twisting.

35. Correcting excess toe-out
To correct the toe-out problem here both tie rods need to be lengthened.
If the steering rack is located ahead of the axle centerline the tie rods need to be shortened.

36. Rack and pinion replacement procedure

37. Lock the steering
With the steering in a straight ahead position wrap the seatbelts through the steering wheel.
Disconnect the battery.

38. Disconnect the tie rod ends
If the rack is being replaced a pickle fork can be used to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm.

39. Remove outer tie rod ends
After disconnecting the tie rod from the steering arm unscrew the tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
Count the number of turns so that the tie rod ends can be installed on the new rack in the same position.
Another way is to count the number of threads outboard of the jamb nut after the tie rod is removed

40. Disconnect steering coupler
Lift the rubber boot that protects the steering coupler to gain access to the pinch bolt.
The coupler pinch bolt is a special bolt that should be labeled so that it is reinstalled in its original location.

41. Remove the hydraulic lines
Supply line
Return line
Disconnect the supply and return lines.
The two smaller lines can stay attached to the rack.

42. Remove the rack mount bolts
The rack mount bolts are special bolts that should be labeled and reinstalled in their original position.

43. The rack can now be withdrawn through the wheel well.
Remove rack

44. Remove tie rod end lock nuts
With the rack removed from the vehicle the lock nuts can be removed easily.

45. Pinion shaft notch
The pinion shaft is notched to insure that the coupler is installed at the correct depth and orientation.

46. Center the rack prior to installation.
Turn the pinion shaft all the way to the right and then turn to the left while counting how many turns.
Turn the shaft to bask the right half that number and the rack should be centered.

47. Reinstall the rack
Note: Return line on this rack uses a conventional hose connection with a worm clamp.

48. Connect the steering coupler
The notch in the pinion shaft must align with the hole for the pinch bolt.
When the coupler is installed correctly the pinch bolt can be easily installed with your fingers.
Do not hammer the pinch bolt into the coupler.
Notch in pinion shaft

49. Install new O-rings on the hydraulic lines
A set of new o-rings are included in the remanufactured steering rack box.

50. Connect tie rod ends
The tie rods ends should be threaded onto the inner tie rod end with the same number of turns that were recorded when they were removed from the old rack.
The number of turns on the left and right side should be roughly equal.

51. Install copper pin and trim to length
After trimming the cotter pin end is bent upward.

52. Top off PS fluid
Before starting the engine fill the PS fluid reservoir.
With the engine running top off the fluid level.
With the engine running turn the steering all the way left and then all the way right to bleed the air out of the system.
Shut the engine off and wait 15 to 20 minutes for the remaining air trapped in the system to rise to work it’s way out then repeat this process to purge any remaining air bubbles.

53. Alignment
Any time the rack or tie rods are replaced the toe angles must be readjusted on an alignment machine.
Besides correcting the toe angle the alignment will insure that the steering wheel is at 12 O’clock when the vehicle is driven straight.