2. What is a Cyanotype? A cyanotype is a kind of printing process that uses chemicals and sunlight to create the print. There are two processes, one involves potassium ferricyanide and ferric ammonium citrate. The new recipe uses potassium ferricyanide, ammonium dichromate, and ferric ammonium oxalate. Cyanotypes can be printed on any natural fiber (organic fabrics, canvas, cotton paper) Cathy Corbishley Michel "Endurance - the ship in the ice”

3. History John Herschel created the process as a way to copy his notes in 1842. He used hyposulphite of soda as well as paper coated with iron salts to create the process. One of the first to put this process to use was Anna Atkins who published a book titled “British Algae: Cyanotype impressions.” It was a book of fern and leaf photogram cyanotypes. The process was also widely used for blueprints until computers were invented.

4. Traditional Cyanotype Process Solutions A and B are not light sensitive separately, but when mixed together must be kept in low light areas. D.H. Burnham & Co Carbide and Carbon Building General The New “Mike Ware” Formula This solution utilizes one mixture composed of three chemicals which must be stored in low light.

5. Pros and Cons of the Two Processes Traditional Easy to mix Fewer chemicals required Slightly lower cost for chemicals Long exposure time Sometimes absorption is an issue Values could wash out if underexposed Sometimes highlights stain Algae could grow in part A New Exposure time is shorter Reliable Doesn’t get moldy Absorbs more easily Takes longer to mix formula, more involved Heated water is required to dissolve chemicals More chemicals required

6. Measuring cup Two glass containers Newspaper (to cover workspace) Foam brushes Spoons (for mixing) Rubber gloves Dust mask Picture frame with glass (plexiglas requires a longer exposure) Natural material (cotton, silk, organic paper) A negative or leaves/branches to print Ammonium ferric citrate Potassium ferricyanide Distilled water Supplies

7. Traditional Step-by-Step Part A: 200 grams ferric ammonium citrate to 1000 ml distilled water Part B: 80 grams potassium ferricyanide to 1000 ml distilled water in separate container * Store in opaque storage container and label * Wear gloves while mixing

8. Step-by-Step Under low light, mix equal parts of A and B together

9. Step-by-Step Allow paper to dry thoroughly under subdued light (safelight can be used) Hair dryer can be used on cool setting or paper can be clipped on a line to dry

10. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step 20 ml distilled water at 110 degrees to 10 grams potassium ferricyanide Stir constantly until it completely dissolves

11. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step 30 ml distilled water at 110 degrees to 30 grams ammonium iron oxalate Stir constantly until it completely dissolves

12. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step 20 ml distilled water mixed into 5 grams ammonium dichromate, measure out.5 ml Add.5 ml to ammonium oxalate and mix thoroughly

13. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step Stir dichromate and oxalate mixture into ferricyanide mixture Stir thoroughly *Allow mixture to cool in a dark place (15 minutes to 1 hour)

14. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step Separate green crystals through filtering Scrape out any crystal residue at bottom of cup

15. Mike Ware’s New Cyanotype Step-by-Step Allow to drip, the volume extracted should be approximately 60 ml Add distilled water to make final volume 100 ml *Store in dark glass or plastic container and label

16. Coating, Step-by-Step Paper can be coated edge to edge…Or a border can be left on edges

17. Coating, Step-by-Step Coat material under subdued light.Coat in both directions.

18. Place the negative on top of the paper that has dried with cyanotype solution on it.

19. Place it face down upon the glass of a contact printing frame. Make sure it is glass, not plexiglas.

20. Cover with two layers of foam core board, and cover board with thin plywood.

21. Clamp the board to hold the paper and negative tightly together.

22. Place printing frame in direct sun or in a UV light box. Printing time varies with time of day, and solution used. A test strip will narrow down the exact time needed.

23. Expose in direct sunlight or UV light box. The traditional method requires 25-30 minutes exposure. The new cyanotype formula requires 6-8 minutes exposure.

24. After timing the exposure, undo the printing frame and separate the paper from the negative.

25. Rinse paper with running water until the water runs clear.

26. Prepare a tray with water and a splash of hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide will oxidize the chemicals and make the print darker blue. (a process that would happen over time if not done now)

27. Allow the cyanotype to air dry.

28. Gallery of Images Becky Raffalovich

30. Catherine Jansen “Soft Silver Tea Set”

31. Anna Atkins from her book British Algae

32. Christopher Derrick The Getty Center

33. Catherine Jansen Blue Room

34. Martha Madigan

36. Dobson

40. David Olivant

45. James Hershel

46. Resources Photos: http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl?m-1263334552/ http://www.architechgallery.com/arch_info/exhibit_docs/exhibitions_2006/chicago_loop.html http://www.christopherjames-studio.com/build/ALTcyanotype.html http://vimeo.com/7726616 www.Flickr.com http://images.businessweek.com/ss/06/02/photofair/source/14.htm http://vwirtsch.blogspot.com/2010/10/camera-obscurapinhole-cyanotypes-and.html Information: http://www.photography.com/articles/history/cyanotype/ http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/history/cyanotype-history-john-herschels-invention Ms. Kates