2. There are many different kinds of dyes that are used for dyeing different materials. Here is a list of dyes that are commercially used. *Direct dyes: used for cotton, linen, regenerated cellulose fibers, and some synthetics Mordant dyes: wool, silk and nylon Sulphur dyes: cotton Vat dyes: cotton and cellulose fibers Soluble vat dyes (such as Indigosol or Soledon): cotton, viscose rayon, wool, and silk Basic dyes (containing mauveine): wool, slik and other protein fibers, and some synthetics Dispersed dyes: acetate and some other synthetics Azoic dyes: cotton and viscose rayon, acetate and some other synthetics, and silk Oxidation dyes: cotton, viscose rayon, and acetate Pre-metallized dyes: cotton, wool, and some synthetics Mineral and pigment colors: printed textiles and glass fibers *Acid dyes: wool, silk, and some synthetics *Types of dyes we look at

3. Cellulose The Chemical name for cotton fibers is cellulose. - Different cotton fibers are of different length (some are short and some are long)

4. Monomers and Polymers Monomer: a simple molecule that repeatedly combines to form a polymer Polymer: a very large molecule that is formed by the covalent bonding of repeating small molecules, known as monomers - Cellulose is a polymer because it is made of repeating parts (monomers) that make it different lengths based on how many monomers that strand of cotton has -The part in the brackets is the monomer that repeats itself many times

5. Cellulose Bonds Directly to the Dye Molecule +

6. -bonds are both broken and formed -carbon-chlorine covalent bond breaks on the dye molecule -room temperature is all the heat needed -oxygen-hydrogen bond is broken on the cellulose molecule -chlorine and hydrogen form HCl -covalent bond is formed between carbon from the dye and oxygen from the cellulose. -this can happen two time for one dye molecule because It has two chlorines

7. When the reaction happens between the dye and the cellulose two HCl particles are produced. As the reaction happens HCl will build up making the solution acidic. If the solution gets too acidic it will stop so we have to neutralize the acid with a base The base we use is Na 2 CO 3 (also called soda ash) HCl + Na 2 CO 3  H 2 O + NaCl + CO 2

8. -Water and dye will also react -chlorine will break from the carbon on the dye -hydrogen breaks away from the oxygen on the water -hydrogen and the chlorine will form HCl once again -carbon from the dye where the chlorine was released and the oxygen from the water where the hydrogen was released will form a new covalent bond -these two reactions (dye and cellulose, dye and water) can occur twice on one dye molecule because it has two chlorine atoms

10. “The first thing to do when you get your shirt is to wash it in dish soap to get out all of the strong alkalis, starches and spinning lubricants.”

11. Before you start the actual dyeing process you must first soak the shirt in a basic solution. This basic solution will fight away the bad effects that the HCl (hydrochloric acid) would have. If it weren’t for this solution the reaction couldn’t take place (if you don’t remember what HCl is you can go back to page 4).

12. “Fold the shirt in a uniform fashion depending on the design and hold the design in place with rubber bands.” Twist around a spot you want to be the middle of the spiral Apply rubber bands to hold the design in place

13. “Now the FUN STEP!!! You add the dye according to what pattern you want your shirt to have. Here are some examples of optional patterns.”

14. “Wrap shirt in paper towel, put in bag, and allow it to sit for 24 hours at room temperature to let the reaction continue.”

15. “Rinse with water to get rid of the slimy basic solution that we soaked it in at the beginning of this procedure (this is NOT to get rid of the excess dye).”

16. “Wash the shirt in hot water and dish soap to remove the excess dye. The reason for the hot water is to continue the reaction that will only occur under warm enough temperatures. Dry in hot dryer to COMPLETE the reaction.”

17. “Lastly you wear your cool new tie dye t-shirt around! Funtabulous eh? “ HOW COOL!

18. -Dyeing dates back to the T’ang dynasty era in China -Where it originated is not known for certain -India, China, Japan, Java, and Bali (mostly Asian countries) -Dyeing spread to the sub-Indian continent, Malayan archipelago, and all across Africa. -Chinese merchants brought it to Japan where it was expanded to silk dyeing. -Colors were a sign of rank and only nobility and priests could wear dye.

19. Early dyes included curcuma, safflower, cochineal, lac, al and indigo. The synthetic dyes were used in wool products exclusively at the beginning and it wasn ’ t until later that it was discovered that the synthetic dyes reacted better with cellulose.

20. The first commercial reactive dyes were marketed in 1956 by ICI. All of the colors weren ’ t discovered at the same time because of their complex atomic structure. The first water soluble acid dye was introduced in 1862.

21. “The history of dyes dates back thousands of years. In the beginning of this art people would use berries from plants, trees, or just flowers. These dyes are called natural dyes because they come naturally.”

22. “Tyron purple was one of the most popular natural dyes used in the ancient times. This dye came from the mucous gland within some species of shellfish. The shells were crushed to get the dye. The dye was then applied to the clothing material and left out in the sun to react and turn purple.” Cracked crab oozing purple stuff

23. “Natural dyes were not available everywhere and there was less supply than the demand for them. This made the dyes expensive and only the higher social classes could afford to wear dyed clothing. All these problems were solved when a man named William Henry Perkin discovered the first synthetic dye in 1856.” William Henry Perkin 1838 – 1907

24. “William Henry Perkin, a student of celebrated European scientist Wilhelm von Hoffman, accidentally discovered the first synthetic dye while doing a lab experiment trying to find a cure for malaria. Perkin, then being only 18, noticed a purple precipitate, later called mauviene, as the product of his experiment and this was quickly put into industrial application. This discovery allowed the young Perkin to start his own factory in London to commercially produce his dyestuff.“

25. “Synthetic means not found in nature, or in other words, made by man. The synthetic dyes are more colorfast, cheaper, and easier to make than natural dyes. Since 1856 many colors of dyes have been discovered, Magenta was found in 1859, Aniline blue in 1860, Aniline black in 1863, and Congo red in 1884. Those are just a few of the many.“

26. “Congo Red was a special dye that was discovered. This was the first direct cotton dye meaning that it could bond with the cellulose in cotton shirts without the need of a mordant (mordant being an extra molecule used in the dyeing process). This discovery opened up a floodgate of development of direct cotton dyes with outstanding fastness to washing and light. The direct cotton dye class is the largest group of dyes in existence.”

27. 1.) Belfer, Nancy, 1977. Designing in Batik and Tie Dye. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J. 2.) http://www.straw.com/sig/dyehist.html, Druding, Susan C. July 08, 2001. April 22, 2002 3.) Dolby, Peter J., April 22, 2002. “Dyeing With Reactive Dyes.” Textile Chemist and Colorist. September 1980. 4.) Meilach, Dona, 1973. Contemporary Batik and Tie-Dye. Crown Publishers, New York, N.Y. 5.) http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/dyeing.html, nicDhuinnshleibhe, Lady Siobhan. 19 February 2000. April 18, 2002. 6.) Robinson, Stuart, 1969. A History of Dyed Textiles. M.I.T. Press, Cambridge, Ma. 7.) Waring, David R., Hallas, Geoffrey, 1990. The Chemistry and Application of Dyes. A Division of Plenum Publishing Corporation, New York, N.Y.