1. General Description of coastal hydrodynamic model

2. Bathymetry Tide Mesoscale circulation Wind Currents Turbulence Sediment transport Mud Model Sand Model Waves WAVEWATCH III l -> k-l, k-  WRF Characteristic of a coastal Hydrodymic model

3. Equations

10. Numerical Formulation

18. Necessity of the data and measurements A coastal model must represent the reality as soon as possible. It’s link to the other objectives developed on the study area. From the different point of view we need: Define the forcing Collecting existing data Initiate a strategy of measurement

19. Bathymetry

20. Currentmeter moorings Meteorological stations Doppler profiling CTD profiling Wavemeter Tide recorders Example of strategy of measurement

21. Tide analysis from tidegauge Amplitude in m. Phase in degree

22. Tide analysis from classical currentmeters Amplitude in m.

23. Wind measurement and analysis of the frequencies

25. ADCP currents meters

26. Drifters

27. Definition of the grids

28. Model Definition grid 540 (435x175)

29. Model Definition grid 180 (200x180)

30. Phase of Validation

32. Validation Tide sea surface elevation

33. Validation sea surface elevation

34. Validation Total currents

36. Drifter comparison

37. Drifter : velocity comparison

38. Examples of results

39. 1. Current evolution

40. 2. Residence times Lagrangian Tracors

41. Simulation without tide Evolution of the concentration in 1 point (example) e-flushing time 2. Residence times Method: concentration of one tracer Case : trade wind de 8 m/s + marée

42. Jouon, Douillet, Ouillon & Fraunié, 2006, Continental Shelf Research, 26, 1395-1415 2. Residence times

43. 3. Dissolved transport TideBottom

44. TideSurface

45. Trade W Bottom

46. 3. Dissolved transport TideBottom

47. Mathematical model General equation of suspended particle transport C : Suspended Sediment Concentration of a given grain size / population u, v, w : water velocity provided by the hydrodynamic model Kh : horizontal diffusivity Kz : vertical diffusivity from kinematic turbulent viscosity Open boundary conditions Surface boundary conditions In Out 4. Particle Dynamics

48.  cd,  ce : critical shear stresses for deposition and erosion k e : erosion rate coefficient Mathematical model : cohesive particles (Mud) Fall velocity (D s < 100 m) : Stokes’ formula where Bottom boundary condition where : shear stress provided by hydrodynamic modelling Deposition (Krone, 1962) Erosion (Parthéniades, 1965)  cd,  ce : critical shear stresses for deposition and erosion k e : erosion rate coefficient

49. Application to the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia : Particle Diameter 3 coarse kinds of sea bottom (Chardy et al., 1988) Ex: Dumbea Bay 4. Particle Dynamics

50. Application to the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia: Calibration Estimate of a global critical shear stress under tide + trade wind forcings % of mud averaged

51. Example : Deposition after one tidal cycle SIMULATION Tide + Trade wind 8 m/s Percentage of mud Reference : Douillet, Ouillon & Cordier, 2001, Coral Reefs, 20, 361-372 4. Particle Dynamics