2. prepared by Steve Dougherty2 Introduction

3. prepared by Steve Dougherty3 Scope of Ice School  An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques  Prusik out of a crevasse.  Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay.

4. prepared by Steve Dougherty4 Recommended Reading

5. prepared by Steve Dougherty5 Lower Eliot Glacier

6. prepared by Steve Dougherty6 Middle Eliot Glacier

7. prepared by Steve Dougherty7 Upper Eliot Glacier

8. prepared by Steve Dougherty8 Ice Axe

9. prepared by Steve Dougherty9 Evolution of the Ice Axe

10. prepared by Steve Dougherty10 Evolution of the Ice Axe

11. prepared by Steve Dougherty11 Evolution of the Ice Axe

12. prepared by Steve Dougherty12 Ice Axe Parts  Pick  Adze  Shaft  Spike

13. prepared by Steve Dougherty13 Ice Axe Length

14. prepared by Steve Dougherty14 How to Carry an Ice Axe

15. prepared by Steve Dougherty15 Ice Axe Grasps a. Self-Arrest b. Self-Belay

16. prepared by Steve Dougherty16 Self-Belay

17. prepared by Steve Dougherty17 Crampons

18. prepared by Steve Dougherty18 Evolution of Crampons

19. prepared by Steve Dougherty19 Purchasing Crampons

20. prepared by Steve Dougherty20 Crampon Maintenance  File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat.  No need for excessive sharpness  Correct any splay in points.

21. prepared by Steve Dougherty21 When to Use Crampons  Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice.  Don’t use crampons in soft snow.  Crampon effectiveness is diminished when snow accumulates between points.

22. prepared by Steve Dougherty22 Crampon Technique French Technique – Flat-Footing German Technique – Front-Pointing.

23. prepared by Steve Dougherty23 Pied Marche

24. prepared by Steve Dougherty24 Pied En Canard  Pied Marche  Pied En Canard  Pied A Plat

25. prepared by Steve Dougherty25 Pied A Plat

26. prepared by Steve Dougherty26 Pied Assis

27. prepared by Steve Dougherty27 Pied Troisieme

28. prepared by Steve Dougherty28 Very Low Angle

29. prepared by Steve Dougherty29 Low Angle

30. prepared by Steve Dougherty30 Moderate to High Angle

31. prepared by Steve Dougherty31 High Angle

32. prepared by Steve Dougherty32 Very High Angle

33. prepared by Steve Dougherty33 Ice Axe Technique

34. prepared by Steve Dougherty34 Piolet Canne

35. prepared by Steve Dougherty35 Piolet Manche

36. prepared by Steve Dougherty36 Piolet Ramasse

37. prepared by Steve Dougherty37 Piolet Ancre

38. prepared by Steve Dougherty38 Piolet Panne

39. prepared by Steve Dougherty39 Piolet Poignard

40. prepared by Steve Dougherty40 Piolet Traction

41. prepared by Steve Dougherty41 Piolet Rampe

42. prepared by Steve Dougherty42 Piolet Rampe

43. prepared by Steve Dougherty43 Low Angle

44. prepared by Steve Dougherty44 Moderate Angle

45. prepared by Steve Dougherty45 High Angle

46. prepared by Steve Dougherty46 Low Angle

47. prepared by Steve Dougherty47 Moderate Angle

48. prepared by Steve Dougherty48 Moderate Angle

49. prepared by Steve Dougherty49 High Angle

50. prepared by Steve Dougherty50 Very High Angle

51. prepared by Steve Dougherty51 Combining Techniques

52. prepared by Steve Dougherty52 Combining Techniques

53. prepared by Steve Dougherty53 Crevasse Self-Rescue

54. prepared by Steve Dougherty54 Field Session Content Morning – Practice Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques. Lunch Afternoon – Prusik out of crevasse; Climb out of crevasse with two ice tools.

55. prepared by Steve Dougherty55 Climbing Equipment  sturdy crampon compatible boots  crampons  ice axe  climbing harness  locking carabiner  extra carabiner  prusik slings (5' and 9' of 6mm Perlon)  helmet  belay/rappel device

56. prepared by Steve Dougherty56 Sat. Logistics/Schedule 4:45 AM - Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride 1100 Airport Rd. 5:00 AM - Depart the State Motor Pool Park & Ride 8:00 AM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground 8:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier (2 miles and 1100’) 10:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier. 11:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques 12:00 PM - Lunch 12:30 PM - Crevasse Self Rescue 2:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope. 3:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground 5:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground 6:00 PM – Group Dinner

57. prepared by Steve Dougherty57 Sun. Logistics/Schedule 6:45 AM – Group breakfast 7:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier 9:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier. 10:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques 11:00 AM - Lunch 11:30 AM - Crevasse Self Rescue 1:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope. 2:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground 4:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground 4:30 PM - Drive to Salem. 7:30 PM - Arrive at State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd.

58. prepared by Steve Dougherty58 The End