1. 1 1 1st Progress Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS & PLANNED ACTIVITIES Santa Croce Sull’ Arno BIOKIMICA 13rd June 2014 Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352

2. 2 2 First steps taken by INESCOP ACTIONDATE B1. Demonstration of the use of traditional chemical acid dyes in leather dyeing Jan-Jun’14 B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with acid dyes Jan-Jun’14 C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Jan-Sep’14 E1. Project managementContinuos

3. 3 B1. Demonstration of use of commercial metal -free acid dyes on leather dyeing Objective: Obtain leathers dyed with different commercial metal-free acid dyes, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes evaluation Tasks: –Selection of commercial metal-free acid dyes: 15 monochromatic samples + 10 combinated samples –Definition of the leather post-tanning process: neutralization, retanning, fatliquoring and dyein –Dyeing test at laboratory level –Evaluation of dyeing baths exhaustion by UV-V Espectroscopy Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

4. 4 Test & Results control sheets Test reference Type of leather and pre- dyeing treatment Tests on leather: –Fastness properties –Physical test Test on residual baths

5. 5 Leather pre-dyeing treatment

6. 6 Laboratory level dyeing test

7. 7 Dyeing baths exhaustion (UV-V Espectroscopy)

8. 8 B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with metal-free acid dyes Objective: Evaluate properties of commercial metal-free acid dyes in the leather dyeing process, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: –Dye fastness evaluation throuht standard fastness test: fastness to rubbing (wet and dry), light, PVC migration, water, perspiration and washing –Physical properties: tensile strebght, resistance to wear and resistance to heat Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

9. 9 Fastness to rubbing (dry/wet)

10. 10 Rubbing fastness results RUBBING FASTNESS WetDry Pardo coriacide R3/44/5 Havanna coriacide X3J34/5 Burdeos coriacide 3B3/44/5 Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R44/5 Beige inoderme AN55 Tabaco oscuro coriacide45 Verde oliva coriacide44/5 Burdeos coriacide FD2/34 Navy P/C JRB44 Negro coriacide3/44 Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ44/5 Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN44 Green (yellow/blue 50:50)3/44 Violet (red/blue 50:50)44/5 Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33)2/34/5 Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33)2/34/5 Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25)3/44/5 Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50)3/44/5 Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30)44/5 Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40)45 YELLOW 423/45 ORANGE 73/45 RED 1313/45 BLUE 22544/5

11. 11 Fastness to light

12. 12 Fastness to PVC migration / water spotting

13. 13 Fastness to water / perspiration

14. 14 Fastness to water results FASTNESS TO WATER WoolAcrylicPolyesNylonCottonDicel Pardo coriacide R3/44/542/3 Havanna coriacide X3J2/34/5411/22 Burdeos coriacide 3B34/5511/24 Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R3/4552/3 4/5 Beige inoderme AN4/5554 5 Tabaco oscuro coriacide4/55545 Verde oliva coriacide4/5553/44/5 Burdeos coriacide FD34/542/334 Navy P/C JRB4/55544 Negro coriacide44/5 3/4 4/5 Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ3/44/542/33/44 Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN3/44/542/33/44/5 Green (yellow/blue 50:50)3/44/5 3/444/5 Violet (red/blue 50:50)344334 Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33)34/5433/44 Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33)14/5413/4 Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25)14/5413/4 Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50)14/5413/4 Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30)1/254/51/244/5 Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40)14/5413/4 YELLOW 4224/5 23/44/5 ORANGE 714/54133/4 RED 13124/5 23 BLUE 22544/5 445

15. 15 Fastness to washing

16. 16 C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Objective: Quantify and evaluate the environmental impact of dyeing residual bath which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: Chemical analysis of dyeing residual bath by means of standard methods: COD, BOD and biodegradability Responsible: INESCOP

17. 17 COD & BOD results

18. 18 Biodegradability results (BOD/COD)

19. 19 Thanks for your attention