1. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 1 FIRST, LET’S TALK ABOUT FREE RADICALS Basically, free radicals are highly reactive, unstable molecules that attack and steal electrons from stable molecules For a molecule to be healthy molecule it must always have an even number of electrons When a molecule is damaged by pollution, UV rays, cigarette smoke, poor diet, infections etc., you lose an electron resulting in an uneven number The molecule is now dangerous as it starts attacking other molecules to capture electrons in order to neutralise themselves For every free radical that ‘steals’ from a stable molecule, another free radical is formed, initially stabilising the free radical but of course generating another in the process and so a chain reaction begins This results in breakdown in collagen and elastin, increased inflammation and overall accelerated skin ageing

2. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 2 NOW, LET’S TALK ABOUT ANTIOXIDANTS Antioxidants are capable of stabilising or deactivating free radicals BEFORE they attack molecules Some antioxidants ‘donate’ their electrons so the free radical becomes stable Whilst others work through an enzymatic action: By preventing the formation of free radicals in the first place, disrupting their harmful processes Blocking free radicals from getting at healthy tissues by physically carrying them away like a bouncer escorting an unruly guest Common antioxidants Vitamin A, B, C, E Alpha Lipoic Acid Green and Black Tea Resveratrol Coenzyme Q10

3. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 3 HYALURONIC ACID (HA) Slide 1 Found naturally in the skin, it’s vital for increasing and maintaining moisture levels in the skin HA is a humectant, which means that it draws water into the skin from both the dermis and the environment, binding the water into the skin HA has the ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water Skin starts to plump, fine lines flatten, and deeper wrinkles become less noticeable when you use HA Lubricates the skin and protects against moisture loss A decrease in HA leads to dehydration, loss of skin tone and elasticity, and wrinkles HA is proven to aid in wound repair and has been used to heal surgical incisions, 1 st and 2 nd degree burns, and various other skin lesions Generally, HA is non-irritating and non-allergenic

4. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 4 HYALURONIC ACID (HA) Slide 2 As we age, our ability to produce this compound weakens until, by the age of 50, we are producing less than half of the HA that we did in our diaper days A drop in HA begins at around 18-20 with skin starting to lose elasticity and revealing the beginning of lines, wrinkles and skin sagging After 40, the downslide is extremely apparent. Therefore, stimulating the production of more HA daily and adding it topically is essential to a healthy, youthful skin There are many sizes of HA in skincare. Smaller molecular weight will be able to retain water in the lower layers of the skin whereas high molecular weight HA will lock in moisture on the surface of the skin Almost half of the body’s HA is located in the collagen of skin and it is logical that HA plays a vital role here Equally important is its ability to remove waste matter from cells including those where there is little blood circulation

5. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 5 VITAMIN A Slide 1 We produce our own Vitamin A which slows down as we age therefore Vitamin A needs to be a staple ingredient in any anti-ageing skincare regime With a small molecular structure, it is able to get to the lower layers of the skin to work from the inside out An extremely effective cell-communicating ingredient which means it can literally connect to almost any skin cell and condition it to behave like a healthy, younger cell Increases, regulates and normalises skin cell turnover and regeneration Collagenase and elastase are enzymes responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin. Vitamin A helps block collagenase and elastase whilst also stimulating fibroblast activity

6. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 6 VITAMIN A Slide 2 Increases the epidermal and dermal thickness Reduces uneven skin tone and colour by regulating melanin production; working on both pigmentation, and scarring Vitamin A is oil soluble and penetrates the skin through the pores making it ideal for acne skin as it improves the cell turnover inside the pores and regulates oil flow and therefore less breakout activity As it’s also an antioxidant, it fights against free radical damage

7. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 7 “Louise, we produce our own Vitamin A but it slows down as we get older, which is not good considering it’s one of the most potent anti-ageing ingredients. As we age, we need Vitamin A to remain youthful looking. Let me give you an analogy. You’re over 50 and which means your cells are over 50 behaving like cells over 50! Vitamin A when applied topically, nudges your 50 year old cells telling them to behave like younger Scripting Suggestion cells, say 35 to 40. And as long as you keep using Vitamin A, your cells will continue to behave more youthfully. If you stop using Vitamin A, of course your cells will resume behaving the age they really are. There’s so much I can tell you about this incredible Vitamin but let me highlight a few important facts. For a start it has a small molecular structure which means it’s able to reach the lower layers of the skin where all ageing starts. That’s why it can literally connect with almost any cell and condition it to behave like a healthy younger cell. Vitamin A increases and regulates cell turnover. The faster our cells turnover the more youthful our skin. Remember how I said our own Vitamin A production slows down as we age? Now our collagen and elastin, which are the proteins responsible for keeping our skin firm and spongy are continuously under attack by enzymes called collagenase and elastase. Vitamin A helps block these enzymes from reaching our collagen an elastin. Amazing huh? Most importantly, Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant which means it will fight the free radicals our skin and body faces on a daily basis. So can you see how important it is that we make sure Vitamin A is a staple ingredient in your skincare regime from this point forward and forever?”

8. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 8 VITAMIN B3 Often listed as a Niacinamide, it’s generally found in serums and moisturisers Although found in many foods like meat, fish, milk and eggs, the Vitamin B3 in skincare is biosynthesised for it’s stability, consistency and efficient concentrations Increases production of ceramides and fatty acids in the skin, improving skin barrier Anti-inflammatory, reduces redness, ideal for rosacea and acne Boosts hydration Increases cell communication Inhibits melanin production As an antioxidant, fights against free radical damage

9. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 9 VITAMIN C Slide 1 There are many different types of Vitamin C used in skincare They can be water soluble, oil soluble, naturally stable or requiring stabilising The solubility of the vitamin, determines which part of the cell the vitamin can enter. Water soluble types concentrate on the inside of the cell Although a naturally occurring ingredient, it’s biosynthesised in skincare, to secure consistency, stability and effective concentrations L-Ascorbic Acid - water soluble and must be stabilised Ascorbyl Palmitate - oil soluble (stable) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) - water soluble (stable) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - water soluble (stable) Even though some forms are naturally stable, they still degrade when exposed to light and air, therefore freshness, formulation and proper storage are important

10. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 10 VITAMIN C Slide 2 Is a tyrosinase inhibitor, therefore brightens the skin and improves the appearance of pigmentation Stimulates collagen synthesis, minimising lines and wrinkles and keeping skin firmer for longer Strengthens capillary walls Natural defence against UV although sunscreen is still a must Excellent as an additional booster in the wound healing process because it helps the skin form new tissue Powerful antioxidant and so protects against free radical damage

11. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 11 VITAMIN E Vitamin E is an oil soluble vitamin also known as Tocopherol Acetate It is one of the most well known and researched antioxidants both when taken orally and topically via skincare products Again, although it can be naturally found, it is most commonly biosynthesised Lubricates the cell membrane and therefore highly moisturising Powerful antioxidant Strengthens the skin’s barrier function Great for healing Anti-inflammatory Relieves itching

12. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 12 ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS Slide 1 There are a number of sources of AHAs and each are different in molecule size Glycolic (sugarcane) Lactic (milk) Citric (citrus fruits) Mandelic (almonds) The molecular size will determine the speed and absorption of its delivery with Glycolic being the smallest and Citric being the largest Breaks down the bonds between dead cells promoting effective exfoliation and encouraging new, fresh cells to the surface Even though doesn’t penetrate the dermis, long term daily use would stimulate the dermis to perform better and on a deeper level stimulates collagen production

13. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 13 ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS Slide 2 Reduces appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smoothes skin’s surface Unblocks congested skin by breaking down debris formed over a pore encouraging decongestion and normalisation of oil secretion Improves colour and texture by brightening a sallow complexion and in some cases have a mild effect on areas of pigmentation Improves the penetration of other ingredients by creating a clearer "pathway" for them to be absorbed, making them much more effective resulting in faster results for your client Creates more consistent and even distribution of pigmentation Normalises the skin thickness of the stratum corneum Creates more consistent and even distribution of pigmentation Stimulates the production of Hyaluronic Acid. Increases skin’s ability to retain moisture by creating a great moisture reservoir, making the cells plumper/more hydrated resulting in a more radiant complexion

14. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 14 BETA HYDROXY ACID There is only one type of BHA used in skin care - Salicylic Acid Derived from Willowbark A form of aspirin therefore contraindicative to those allergic to aspirin Powerful exfoliant that will remove dead cells from surface of skin, making it smoother and resulting in a much more even looking complexion Especially helpful in treating acne due to its ability to penetrate the follicle. It encourages the shedding of dead skin cells from within the follicle, helping the pores clear of cellular debris thereby reducing the number of pore blockages and breakouts on the skin Huge anti-inflammatory properties making it very useful for both acne and pigmentation Promotes further penetration of following products making active ingredients much more effective, leading to quicker results

15. © 2014 CREAM Solutions All Rights Reserved 15 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AHA & BHA Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water soluble Beta Hydroxy Acids are oil soluble So by definition, Beta Hydroxy Acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that build up inside the pore, resulting in blockages, trapping bacteria and causing comodones Because of this difference in properties, Beta Hydroxy Acid is better used on oily skin with open or closed comodones