1. Compost: The Soul of Soil 6 billion microbes per handful can’t be wrong!

2. The Ingredients Brown Stuff (Carbon) Green Stuff (Nitrogen) Water Topsoil, Old Compost, or Manure Air The result: carbon-rich, organic matter able to hold 6 times its weight in water; holding trillions of beneficial microbes to help plants achieve their full potential.

3. Building a Pile Gather Materials - Enough to make a pile 1m x 1m x 1m: 2/3 brown, 1/3green, 60 liters water, 20 liters finished compost or soil. Find a place in the shade: keeps pile moist (no sun), nicer for you (no sun).

4. Building a Pile Add layers of chopped brown and green leaves, the smaller the better to increase rate of decomposition. 6” brown then 2” green. Scatter old manure, soil or compost to inoculate the pile with decomposing microbes. Moisten with water. Mix. Continue till pile is a meter tall.

5. Building a Pile A 1 square meter pile of wet, dirty leaves. Let stand for one week. Mix and add more water as needed to keep just moist, not wet. After 3 months of twice per month mixing, the pile will reduce to 1/3 its original size, be cool to the touch, and ready to be applied to garden beds.

6. And it DOES get Hot! Three days at 130 to 160 degrees F will kill all weed seeds and pathogenic bacteria making way for the beneficial decomposers to colonize.

7. Hot – Active - Steady

8. Using the Compost One 20 liter bucket per meter of garden bed applied before each crop is planted will reinvigorate even the most depleted soils. Spread and mix into the top 6-8” using only local tools….like fingers!

9. Using Compost Maize Bed Comparison November 10: Planting Day. Bed to the left is double dug with compost added. Bed to the right is single dug with no added compost. Each receive 50 seeds and equal water. One meter wide double dug bed with one bucket of compost added per square meter. Note water retaining pathways between permanent beds.

10. Using Compost Maize Bed Comparison Planting Day. Compost bed: 2 seeds per station at 35 cm hexagonal spacing. No compost bed: 4 seeds per station at one meter apart – the conventional way. 4 seeds close together will result in four weak plants and little food.

11. Using Compost Maize Bed Comparison December 12: One month after planting. Note poor plant growth in the no-compost bed. Soil dried too quickly after germination so that only the strongest survived vs 98% viable plant and germination in compost bed.

12. Using Compost Maize Bed Comparison December 18. Two weeks after second seedling has been transplanted into middle bed. December 23. No compost bed struggling to retain enough water to maintain plant vigor.

13. Using Compost Maize Bed Comparison December 28. 6 weeks after planting. Weed free and strong plants growing in moist soil. Hexagonal spacing maximizes space for roots and stems so as to maximize yield per unit area. Compost allows this to happen.

14. The Difference is Clear Eight times the yield per unit area!

15. Permaculture and Bio-Intensive Growing Household Food Security Compost, Double Digging, Perennial Guilds and Water Holding Swales