1. Chapter 11 Accessory and Fur Manufacturing

2. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Fashion Accessories Over the last several years the accessory industry has become one of the most exciting segments of manufacturing and retailing. Apparel designers want accessories specifically created to go with their apparel collections so many apparel companies added accessory division through joint ventures or licensing agreements. In addition, accessories balance product lines during fashion cycles.

3. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Fashion Accessories Brand and designer names drive the business. With the exception of hosiery, all businesses are very involved with importing. With the exception of shoes, retailing is a new idea for most accessory companies.

4. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Footwear The largest accessory category with more than seven billion pairs produced annually worldwide. Comfort is becoming more and more important in the development of shoes. Designers are line builders, samples are prototypes lasts are foot shaped forms and model makers are Modelistas. 98% of the shoes sold in the United States are imported.

5. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Footwear Traditional leather shoes require nine basic steps: –Making the last –Patternmaking –Cutting –Stitching and fitting –Lasting –Bottomizing –Heeling –Finishing –Treeing Shoe manufacturers also sell shoes in retail shops.

6. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Handbags Handbags move from initial sketches into muslin or imitation leather with final samples made in leather or appropriate fabrics. Ornaments and linings are added after which samples are critiqued. Production involves cutting dyes or water lasers to cut leather or hand or rotary machines cutting fabric. Bags may be classified as luxury, designer, and better or moderate and inexpensive depending on materials and craftsmanship. Marketing happens at trade fairs and shows.

7. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Belts and Gloves Belts are apparel driven and cyclical. Manufacturers tend to be small firms in New York, with a growing presence in California. Marketing for belts, like handbags, takes place five times a year in New York and market center showrooms. Glove manufacturers only show once a year Production is labor intensive and nearly all fine gloves are imported from Italy.

8. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Hats and Scarves The millinery industry suffered a severe setback with the onset of casual dressing. Made from felt or straw, hats are blocked over wooden forms while caps are made from fabrics. Scarves can be made from silk, wool, cashmere, cotton or man-made fibers. Production is similar to that of any woven textile, the majority of which takes place overseas. Millinery marketing takes place four times a year, and scarf marketing happens three times a year for a cyclical highly competitive sector.

9. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Hosiery Major changes in recent history have impacted women’s hosiery dramatically: –1940 introduction of nylon stockings –1965 introduction of pantyhose Hosiery is knitted in mills running 24/7, with over 800 mills in the United States, located primarily in North Carolina. Two main markets occur annually, although fashion hosiery may show four times a year. It is hugely competitive with large national advertising budgets.

10. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Jewelry Made from metals and stones it is completely different from the other accessory businesses. The sector is divided into three price points: –Fine, made of precious metals and gemstones Craftsmanship, design and materials determine cost –Bridge, with lower price points than fine Still made with precious metals and semi precious or cubic zirconium stones –Costume, mass produced to provide consumers with a variety of styles to coordinate with their wardrobes As price points lower, product becomes trendier and utilizes metals that imitate gold and silver.

11. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Jewelry Categories are rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets There are many production techniques: –Stamping flat shapes –Casting –Electroform –Wiring Italy, Israel and New York are the fine market centers, Providence, Rhode Island the bridge and costume center, with growing import competition. Fine jewelry markets twice annually, bridge three times and costume up to five times.

12. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Watches Luxury watches are produced in Switzerland. Swiss manufacturers also developed quartz watches in 1967, quickly copied by Japanese and American firms. Swiss watchmakers also developed the inexpensive fashionable Swatch in 1982 to combat less expensive imports from Asia. The two important watch markets are held in April in Geneva and Basel, Switzerland.

13. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Fur Garment Manufacturing Fur garment development begins during processing with the coloring and texturing of the pelts. Collections are shown for one season a year, fall-winter. Furs have become fashion products, with trends influencing the design of products.

14. Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 Fur Garment Manufacturing Production is done by small firms in the U.S., Canada and Europe with increasing competition from China. Sewing and production requires time, skill and intensive labor. Demand is affected by many variables and has seen a resurgence in new markets in Russia, China and Eastern Europe.